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UltravioletPhotography

Hellow from Poland (Minsk Mazowiecki)


lukaszgryglicki

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  • 2 weeks later...
lukaszgryglicki

Some more UV photos:

- Nikkor 35/2 AF-D.

- Kolar UV-Pass

- Nikon D600 FS (bayer remained in place).

White baanced to gray asphalt.

Usual parameters (all handheld):

- aperture: 2.8-4.

- ISO: 200+ (no more than 800 usually).

- Shutter: 1/15s - 1/30s

Cloudless skies, full sunligt, around noon.

Only after white balancing on the computer I saw that this lens has a UV hot spot - it wasn't visible in Lv and photos on preview - Nikon is unable to white-balance in UV - only post-process.

This is the usual UV-feel in landscapes: dark, gloom, depression, 1920s look IMHO. Skies always white, almost everything else pitch black.

My nderstanding is tha if something shows as "blue" it means it is reflecting near 400nm, maybe down to 380nm, but then goes dark. Green colors are 99% flares and hot spots (sorry). My motorbike's glasses arefor example blue - it means (IMHO) they're clear down to 380nm (or around) and then they darken - s they look blue. Bike's colour (but not glasses) is also blue (like seat fuel tank, etc.) 

I see no IR leaks at all with that single Kolari UV-Pass filter.

 

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Super photos. Like how the windshield goes dark. Cool effect. Your scenics make me want

 to try UV landscapes.

Thanks for sharing,

Doug A

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lukaszgryglicki

I was trying to use it with Nikkor 28/1.4 - but it has 72mm filter thread and Kolari is 58mm - I have step down rings but must use a combination of two.

It worked but vingetting was waaaaay too big - actual photos were circular, also because of the sspace between the lens and thefilter I saw internal reflections...

 

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8 hours ago, lukaszgryglicki said:

I was trying to use it with Nikkor 28/1.4 - but it has 72mm filter thread and Kolari is 58mm - I have step down rings but must use a combination of two.

It worked but vingetting was waaaaay too big - actual photos were circular, also because of the sspace between the lens and thefilter I saw internal reflections...

 

I would not think such a wide and fast lens could have any meaningful UV-reach.

Vignetting is just a small problem, compared to the lousy UV-reach.

 

It might be this lens:https://imaging.nikon.com/history/story/0028/index.htm

 

Waaaaaay to many lens elements with AR-coating and quite a distance of potentially UV-attenuating glass to pass.

 

For UV-photography you normally do not gain speed by a faster lens. Quite the opposite is normally the case.

The same is true for zooms that normally are rather complex with many lens elements.

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lukaszgryglicki

I recently shamelessly shoot UV with all lenses - no excuses. I'm assuming one has no UV capability only when I check it.

That 28/1.4 actually worked - brute force, sure, maybe only down to 370nm but still...

It's just for fun and artistic effects, I know that aspherical wide 1.4 lens will not even compare to El Nikkor when stopped down to f=5.6, but man, from 1.4 to 5.6 there are 4 stops (16x) so say EL Nikkor has 50% transmission and 28/1.4 has just 3% - effects will be the same. I prefer to shoot handheld.

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If you make monochromatic images then reach is not an issue, since you can adjust exposure, but I like to have the false colors in my photos. Anything that passes out to 360nm’s or so looks nice in my opinion. 
 

Also, if the lens barely lets any UV through, the issue of IR contamination can creep in. 

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lukaszgryglicki

That's true, and I make color photos too (in addition to monochrome) and understand that colors will shift closer to 400nm when using more complex lenses. This is why I can use both approaches - call it "brute force" and "normal" approaches.

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12 hours ago, lukaszgryglicki said:

That's true, and I make color photos too (in addition to monochrome) and understand that colors will shift closer to 400nm when using more complex lenses. This is why I can use both approaches - call it "brute force" and "normal" approaches.

Four stops less UV transmission with no change of IR transmission (might be more) will definitely increase risk of IR contamination quite a lot, as Andy points out. This is most visible in really dark UV-signatures in flowers. Foliage often has some degree of specular reflections of the ambient light that to some degree mask any IR-leakage.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
lukaszgryglicki

A bit of Norway - Sanderstølen, near Gol.

Different lenses, different wavelengths: FS, IR or Vis (via Kolari UV-IR cut - I only took one camera - Nikon D600 fs). On the 1st photo - the violet/purple light is from IR coming from a fireplace. All photos script auto-white-balanced - which just means that the average color from all pixels combined is gray.

 

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Those are some cool shots, I bet it's nice to have family members willing to photo in IR😆 My daughter only lets me in Thermal because it's like Predator vision.

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lukaszgryglicki

Thanks, just finally got S8612 67x2mm and H-360 67x2mm today (a gift in my post box when we returned from Norway), so after I catch up with my work I'll do some tests of UV landscapes - S8612 is critical for this - should be usable with both H-340 and H-360 (seems like Kolari UV-pass is not leaking IR so it won't need it).

From my first experience with S8612 alone - now indoor (already dark outside) it seems to block IR perfectly - shots have teal/blue hue, but Nikon is able to auto white balance with them, and if I make a photo of a white sheet of paper and then use it as a white balance source - photos look quite OK indoor with S8612 alone.

And this is us (me & my wife) in the near future :-D :P 

 

 

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  • 4 months later...
lukaszgryglicki

Just a few test shots with a new filter: AndreaU, Nikon D600 fs/bb, Bayer RGGB not removed, Nikkor 50/1.8 AF-D, ISO fixed at 100, aperture usually around 4-11, full sunlight, exposure times around 0.5s-4s, forgot to cover the viewfinder in some shots :-( (which causes green fog/ghosts in the center). WB to gray brick.

 

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