Doug A Posted March 24, 2022 Share Posted March 24, 2022 Fine shots. The new filter is a keeper. I also enjoy seeing UV cityscapes. Especially of places I've never visited. I'm glad you are safe. Was worried about you with the turmoil nearby. Thanks for sharing, Doug A Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 UV ~ 340 nm: Nikon D600 full spectrum, mono, UV-Nikkor (f=4.5, 5.6 or 8), max ISO 1600, min shutter speed 1/15s, Hoya U-340 + BG39 2.3mm. All hand-held - and because of 1/15 shutter I was usually doing a burst of shots and 1/5 was acceptable. Note that this is a sunny day, almost no clouds - and looks very haze, also take a look at some cars paint - it looks at least strange. Head lights and windows are usually black, paint shows texture. BTW: anybody see any IR leaks? I'm hoping to have clean <= 350 nm images... Link to comment
colinbm Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 Looking good. Some cars paintwork show differences in UV if they have had repairs & re-sprays, as can be seen in some of these pictures. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 So it can be used to detect repainting - interesting... Link to comment
ulf Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 IR-leaks are normally most visible in objects with strong IR reflectance that are UV-dark. That is typical for some flowers with UV-signatures. Sensitivity for IR leakage in filters increase by more UV-marginal lenses and camera sensors. I do not think you have any problem here. Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 The plants would show any IR leak, but they are very dark here. The grass is darker than the dirt even. It seems quite unlikely there is a leak. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 OK then, so maybe I don't need S8612 in 52mm and BG39 2.3mm does the job... Hoya U-340 has quite a significant IR leak, that seems to be surpassed (but Houa U-340 is 4mm thick). Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 15, 2022 Author Share Posted July 15, 2022 Various trichromes: Nikon D600 mono + UV-Nikkor, f=8, ISO=100, exposure (as long as needed - UV needed around 4s, sunny day). - For UV: Hoya U-340 52x4 mm + BG39 52x2.3 mm = ~ <= 350 nm. - For Vis: Houa IR/UV cut 52 mm = ~ 400-700 nm. - For IR: IR850 52 mm = ~ >= 850 nm. Assigned to different channels on different photos. I've found it impossible to align them perfectly, because even if I do this manually on some very distinguishible pixels - the farther I'm from that point - the bigger differences are - it seems like "geometry" is slightly different at different focal points and wavelengths... Link to comment
colinbm Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 Amazing. That car at the bottom middle is showing some good paint mis-matching, even though not in visible light. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 15, 2022 Author Share Posted July 15, 2022 Yes, I can detect those pains changes in UV, next time I go for walking, I'll be specially looking for this. U-340 + BG39 are good in detecting those flaws. Link to comment
Doug A Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 Impressive color images. My preference is number two. Interesting that geometry changes with wave length. The UV Nikkor is looking mighty fine. Thanks for sharing, Doug A Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 15, 2022 Author Share Posted July 15, 2022 Yep, just wanted to re-do this with wide angle - just hoping that when I bump time to 30s or so then I'll be able to do the same (tried with Nikkor 20/3.5 Ai). But ... no! Not even possible to focus using live-view with U340 4mm and BG39 2.3mm = almost completely black LV wide open and if I focus in visible there is a focus shift (there is none in UV-Nikkor btw). So it *may* be possible with 20/3.5 but focus will be by guess-trial-error and exposure 30s might be not enough (Nikon doesn allow any more than 30s, Fuji allows...) - UV-Nikkor needs around 4s at ISO=100 and f=8. Seems like this filter stack is quite deep in UV. I'm speaking about ISO 100 - UV-Nikkor shots were at ISO 100. Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 I think the alignment issues are partly due to very small rotations not being accounted for, not geometry changes with wavelength. The difficulty you describe “the further I am from that point - the bigger the differences are” is what you expect from a rotation. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 15, 2022 Author Share Posted July 15, 2022 You are probably right, but camera was not on ANY tripod but was put on the balcony ground - but yeah this is perfectly possible. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 17, 2022 Author Share Posted July 17, 2022 Hmm - I think not - there was not noticable rotatation, I also can't imagine scale... I was struggling with my program (which uses brurte force) to account for rotation and best is fi=0 degees no matter what I try - I didn't try scale yet, but how "scaling" would be possible from the same place (+/2 say 1cm and focus is in infinity or maybe samy 100+ meters) - so why image shows different "distortion" over the frame? Any thoughts? I was on the weeding and then slept - so I only tested extra rotation - is there any major error I'm doing here? Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 20, 2022 Author Share Posted July 20, 2022 Now shot indoor - UV,Vis,IR -> R,G,B: Link to comment
Doug A Posted July 21, 2022 Share Posted July 21, 2022 Like the effect and colors. Surprised there was enough UV light indoors. Thanks for sharing, Doug A Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 21, 2022 Author Share Posted July 21, 2022 Barely, UV is from Hoya U-340 4mm thick + BG39 2.3mm thick, it was 30s with ISO 400s if I remember correctly. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 Hansnes, Norway, almost 70N (few kilometers short): UV, Vis, IR -> RBG. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted September 2, 2022 Author Share Posted September 2, 2022 I often feel like I should work as a scientist (software developer is still quite close - researching & solving problems every day), whenever I have any free time I'm trying to play with that UV stuff, I also have thermal IR, many chemical elements (even radioactive one) - feel like this is some kind of addiction, not exectly doing anything useful, but just like spending time trying all this stuff with mixed results. If I sometimes spam too much about my various/strange ideas please forgive me - I just like scientific discussions - basicaly not limited to any particular topic. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted September 8, 2022 Author Share Posted September 8, 2022 Got my Invisible 308nm filter. Today is too dark, when I try to do a photo with it using Nikon D600 mono - I'm getting blackness, even with 30s exposure and 1000 ISO. When I get something I'll report - need a sunny day an dprobably longer exposure with maybe even 3200 ISO (but that would have a lot of noise) so right now waiting. It is possible that my "mono" Nikon has quite UV-blocking glass - it is supposed to pass UV (and it easy does around 350nm maybe even less - U-340 makes really good photos) but it may start blocking in UV-B range (below 320 nm)... Link to comment
Stefano Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 With my Canon EOS M (standard coverglass, color sensor) I can get noisy images at ~f/2.5, ISO 25600 and 8-15 seconds. I use two Chinese 310 nm bandpass filters rated at about 50% transmission, so the overall transmission should be about 25%. Under the same or equivalent conditions you should easily record images, even if they are noisy. Link to comment
Stefano Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 Here Jonathan used f/8, ISO 800 and 4 seconds at 313 nm, to give you an idea. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted September 8, 2022 Author Share Posted September 8, 2022 I had very little time to test, will see over the weekend. I used slow lens (UV-Nikkor at f/4.5) - live view shows blackness, I just did a few test shots, even without tripod. On the weekend (sun permitting) I'll do it for 30s, f=5.6, ISO as low as possible to get anything. If that is not working I'll do bulb/time exposures of several minutes. Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki Posted September 8, 2022 Author Share Posted September 8, 2022 LOOOOOL So stupid mistake!! Now I'm able to make a photo with it, using f=5.6, ISO=100 and t=5s (D600 mono + UV-Nikkor) Guess what? My WINDOWS are blocking 99% or even a lot more of UV-B. Yes - I'm stupid, I did test photo indorr through the window!! Now when I open it and make a photo from balcony, all looks just fine. Live View works when UV-Nikor is even at f=8 (but quite dark) and with f=5.6 and f=4.5 it is OK - able to magnfy in Live view and shoot! LOL again. When I use life view indoor to see through open balcony door I see everything but when I look at the window just next to it - it is pitch black! Link to comment
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