Introduction!

[LiveWild]

Hey everyone I'm an ecologist exploring new technologies. I'm extremely interested in UV photography but I just need to get some facts before I sink money into equipment!

[colinbm]

Welcome
You will find all your answers here.

[VideoJohn]

3 hours ago, LiveWild said:

Hey everyone I'm an ecologist exploring new technologies. I'm extremely interested in UV photography but I just need to get some facts before I sink money into equipment!

 

What's your budget? What are your goals?

[JCDowdy]

Welcome, this is a great place for beginners to learn about UV photography.

Ecology was one of the most fun courses I ever took so many years ago.

What ecosystem do you inhabit?

 

[photoni]

On 9/28/2023 at 3:21 AM, LiveWild said:

Hey everyone I'm an ecologist exploring new technologies. I'm extremely interested in UV photography but I just need to get some facts before I sink money into equipment!

.

There are two ways to deal with the world of UV invisible world.
.
Amateur like me, with a used Sony A7 (300/400 € + F.S. Modification 100/200 €),

a Meritar 50 f2.9 + M42 extendable helicoid for making macros (~100 €),

and a series of Chinese filters, are good ZWB2+TSN575 (~50 €)
.
Or professional like @lukaszgryglicki with a used Fuji GFX 50 (modified F.S. with quartz glass cover)

and a lens with deep UV range like the 105 UV-Nikkor

and the best filters, the most classic being the Baader-U2

for a total approximately €8,000

.

depending on what you want to do, you need to add a tripod, stands, dedicated flashes and more
.
The differences are big if you are looking for deep UVA or UVB,
but there are no differences if you are satisfied with reaching 365 nm.
.
I hope someone confirms what I wrote or modifies it with his indications.
HI
Toni

[lukaszgryglicki]

I confirm:

- for UV-A - no difference.

- for UV-B - makes *some* difference.

- for UV-C - almost no difference - the missing part is (in my case) filtering/blocking/lighting. Each of them are HUGE.

 

[dabateman]

Well if your happy with just UV-A, you can get an off the self Olympus Em5mk2 or Em1mk1,  with the Sigma art 19mm f/2.8 or Sigma art 30mm f/2.8 smooth barrel lenses in m43rds mount and whatever UVA filter suits your fancy.  Zwb2 with BG39 or Baader venus u filter. 

That might be the cheapest entry system. 

The stock Olympus cameras that I mentioned can see to 370nm, as can the those Sigma art smooth barrel lenses. 

[Foxfire]

Hi, as it seems to me the most important part in UV photography is a good UV-pass filter. But these are a bit on the expensive side. It can be done by stacking some cheaper chinese UV-pass & IR-block filters, initially i tried it also, but wasn't satisfied, so, consequently bought a Baader-U filter. I would suggest not to try to find some cheaper workaround with the filter, it might turn out to be not so economical after all. This is my opinion ofcourse, based on somewhat limited experience, as for now. 

[ulf]

A less UV-capable lens + camera combination create a higher demand of IR-blocking in the filter or filter stack, as the IR peak part from the filters around 700nm will be constant for the camera while the contribution of UV-A light will be lower. For bad combinations you might need a magnitude more IR-blocking than for a more capable camera/lens

[Doug A]

Welcome to the website. This is a great place to learn invisible light photography. I've learned so much in 2 years. One tip is to be sure the camera you want to modify is still repairable. My 1st used full spectrum camera died 6 months after buying it, No replacement shutters available. 

 

2nd tip is to check out 

 

. @Andrea B. has gathered info about everything  from eye protection to filtration in one guide. She constantly updates it. You won't find as much concentrated UV & IR info anywhere else. 

Wish you well,

Doug A