Help required concerning Kuribayashi 35mm

[dabateman]

1 hour ago, Christoph said:

I bought this one --- Kyoei Acall Kuribayashi (T-Mount) 35mm F3.5 Lens & Filter Set! UV Photography! | eBay

But to be honest - I don't see getting the right distance with an adapter going over the t-mount... It'd need to be very thin, I guess... 

Based on your comments. I would say you have a T-mount lens. If you try to screw a M42 mount adapter on to a T-mount lens, it will only screw on a little,  maybe one or two threads worth. So it will not screw all the down, which is what you said earlier in the comments.  

Because a M42 adapter will not screw all the way down, it will appear to not focus to infinity. 

The solution is just to buy the correct T-mount adapter, like one of the ones Ulf has linked to, or one from your favorite camera store.  They are common. 

That will allow your lens to work. 

[Christoph]

Yep- It worked! Thanks @ all for the help! Here it is with a T to Nikon adapter... But I have to say --- I'm not so sure if it is better (so that I notice it) compared to my Nikon 35mm (f/2) Here's an image taken with the Kuribayashi just now... with the included filters... will test with the single bandpass 350nm from Midopt sometime soon

[ulf]

 

35 minutes ago, Christoph said:

Yep- It worked! Thanks @ all for the help! Here it is with a T to Nikon adapter... But I have to say --- I'm not so sure if it is better (so that I notice it) compared to my Nikon 35mm (f/2)

IMHO there has been way too much focus on really deep UV-A reach for outdoor UV-photography. 

Some lenses with less deep, but still enough UV-reach are optically better corrected.

 

Your Nikon 35mm (f/2) is likely substantially more UV-marginal, worse enough to give a longer exposure time for a correct exposure than that clone for the same aperture settings.

Here I am just guessing as I do not have that lens to measure.

 

Then the image will also have a bit less saturated false UV-colours.

The saturation loss will be greater for UV-false yellow flowers.

[Andrea B.]

I'll add a general comment here.

 

It can take some time to work out the best way to use a lens. Is it better at close, medium, or long distances? Does it have significant fall-off which forces a shoot-the-center-then-crop mode? Does the result look a bit crisper when UV flash is used as opposed to sunlight only? Does using a lens hood help against flare or other aberrations? Does it get a little "muddy" around 350nm but not at 375nm?

 

I didn't list everything, but I'm sure you get the idea here - try every UV shooting situation you can think of and keep notes for future reference.

 

This kind of broad testing is also useful for later when you might want to sell the lens. You can provide potential buyers with examples of best usage for the lens.

[Akira]

On 4/28/2023 at 12:07 PM, dabateman said:

Wait, hold on.

T-mount is a standard camera mount. The flange back distance is 55mm.

See:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-mount

 

T-mount adapters to any camera mount are cheap.  Just buy one.

Many lenses are T-mount, I have quite a few. 

I bought them as you can adapt them to any mount. Just buy a T-mount to Nikon F-mount adapter,  and your all set. You will have infinity focus. 

My Peleng 8mm fisheye is T-mount,  I have used it on my Nikon Df camera. 

I also bought my igoriginal 35mm f3.5 lens because it was T-mount and could adapt it to any camera. 

 

 

I've never even thought about it!  So, the "T" stands for Tamron and the T-mount was the precursor for the Adaptall bayonette mount developed by Tamron.

 

Thank you for the correction!