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UltravioletPhotography

Seasonal yellow flowers


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I tried my usual Tangsinuo filters with the yellow flowers on my balcony.
All photos are with the new Sony A7 f.s. (old one is broken, shutter is stuck) 200 iso, Meritar 50 lens at ƒ:8
I didn't change the focus, white balance and on the teflon panel under the flowers,

I adjusted the curves for brightness and contrast, I didn't apply saturation.

The first picture is with QB39~BG39 1.5mm thick, all other filters are about 2mm thick.
The sun was slightly veiled, a little wind.


Thanks for the comments
Toni


© in EXIF

 

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DSC04540.jpg.8f3c88bcb42f5d4859bca8273c41aa5c.jpg

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59 minutes ago, Nate said:

Nice ones Toni, the zwb1 sure drops the high end, looks great.

 I must have missed what the TSN filter is.

the TSN575 filter is a Chinese filter by Tangsinuo, it is a "dense" BG39

that cuts IR very well, but unfortunately it also cuts the low UV part.


When I did the tests with the diffraction grating, it is seen that my Meritar with ZWB2 (~UG1) sees beyond 365nm,

adding a 2mm TSN575 or two 1.5mm thick QB39, the green part (I think ~ 345 nm) is cut

.

I would like to try a S8612 ... but it looks like a wanted ghost :S

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Interesting work photoni - thanks for the comparisons.

 

QB29 looks Interesting - bit like the BG3 with a much dialled down infrared transmission. Could be a good combo with the TSN575 for UVIVF as a barrier filter on the light source and a yellow filter + UV/IR block on the camera.

 

QB29 vs ZWB3 is interesting, as is the ZWB1 vs ZWB2 - bit like the Kolari U vs Baader U.  I have found the ZWB3 to be prone to surface deterioration.

 

I have the TSN575, but haven't deployed it yet. Have to get onto that with my gazanias I have growing.

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2 hours ago, cazza132 said:

I have found the ZWB3 to be prone to surface deterioration.

 

yes also my ZWB3 is very damaged, strangely only one surface is corrugated, (the photo above is very foggy)

 

 

2 hours ago, cazza132 said:

 

QB29 looks Interesting - bit like the BG3 with a much dialled down infrared transmission. Could be a good combo with the TSN575 for UVIVF as a barrier filter on the light source and a yellow filter + UV/IR block on the camera.

¿ I don't understand ?

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39 minutes ago, photoni said:

¿ I don't understand ?

Here is an example of using a BG3 barrier filter on my 395nm led torch. The QB29 could be even better to eliminate visible/IR light transmission (south of violet anyway) - a contaminate.

However, a yellow (or in my case a Hoya X0 filter) barrier filter is also required on the camera to block the source UV/violet light to expose the fluorescence for UVIVF. The Hoyo X0 does leak a small amount blue/violet light though. Using a polarizer helps block the straight reflections from the light source. I didn't use a polarizer for this shot. A UV/IR cut filter is also used in camera (slot in filter) to eliminate infrared contamination.

A Tiffen Yellow 8 is strong enough to block all blue/violet.

Blue Passion Flower - UVIVF 395nm - 230412.jpg

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I like how TSN+QB29 and TSN+ZWB3 differentiate colors of individual flowers that other filters don't.

 

Since ZWB3 is prone to surface deterioration, wouldn't it make sense to use QB29 more often whenever possible? How long have you had the QB29 and is still in decent condition?

-great shots

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There are two groups of filters used for the UV+Vis images you see above made with TSN+QB29 and TSN+ZWB3

The first group have a simple transmission bump, just like UG11 and UG1, but extending into VIS.

The second group have a transmission bump plus a lower transmission plateau extending into VIS.

 

Later I will try to come back with transmission images to more clearly show this.

 

The groups show interesting differences and similarities for different types of flowers that Tony very nicely have shown above.

Some flowers become red with filters in group 1, while stay yellow with group 2.

 

The QB29, falls into a group 1 (with similar, but not identical) filter glass types made by Schott, like the BG3 and BG25. too.

The ZWB3, falls into a group 2 (with similar, but not identical) filter glass types like UG5 and U-330, from Schott and Hoya.

Both groups need to be stacked with an IR-blocker, here, TSN, but S8612 or BG39 are alternatives.

The thickness of the UV+VIS glass can be used to tune how dark the UV signature will become.

My UG5 is made to 1.5mm thickness and that often works well for me.

I have tried ZWB3 up to 3mm thickness and then the UV-signature is very dark, almost, but not quite black.

 

The results are also quite dependent on the cameras sensitivity response and how much UV there is in the illuminating light.

At my latitudes the sunshine in the early spring contains less UV and then I get more pale UV-signatures with these filters.

 

Tony's demonstration above with WB against PTFE is very good to show the different response for different flowers.

 

For some flowers I WB to taste instead fo to PTFE, with these types of filters, especially when I have only one type of flower.

The PTFE can give very boring results and as such images are not intended for any formal presentation a different WB is quite acceptable.

 

Al these filters have a very blue base tint, making the R and G-channels much less exposed.

The images need a very strong kind of WB that fewer raw converters can handle correctly.

 

It is also quite god if the FS-converted camera have a good dynamic range.

I had some problems with noise with such images taken with my older Canon 60D

 

By the way Hoya optical glass and filter glass materials are made by Hoya.

Hoya camera filters are not. They are made by a different camera filter producer, possibly Marumi.

Schneider, B+H in the same way are using Schott filter glass materials in their filters

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22 hours ago, Unscenerie said:

the QB29 and is still in decent condition?

 

Yes, the QB29 is still in very good condition
I also have a BG25 (Jena glass ø 75 mm - 2 thick)
and I also have a ZB2 which produces almost the same results as QB29.

 

I ordered Jena glass BG18 (similar to BG25) in Germany

 

17 hours ago, ulf said:

The results are also quite dependent on the cameras sensitivity response and how much UV there is in the illuminating light.

At my latitudes the sunshine in the early spring contains less UV and then I get more pale UV-signatures with these filters.

 


I was lucky in northern Italy it was a day with strong sunshine, only slightly misty

.

17 hours ago, ulf said:

Al these filters have a very blue base tint, making the R and G-channels much less exposed.

The images need a very strong kind of WB that fewer raw converters can handle correctly.

 

I used Capture One for white balance on Teflon
With A7, i overexposed +1 stop with shutter priority autoexposure, variable iso.
the color temperature is not reported, but it is over 14,000 °K on the scale
the tint is also below the -50 scale, it's -58

the blue channel was near maximum brightness the green and red channels were underexposed by 3 stops... approx

.

this is a graph taken from those published by Tangsinuo

 

TSN575.jpg.c2a693ed35a93d9f0d38c182f03346be.jpg

 

 

@cazza132 Thenks, now I understand how you do it
I have a 365 nm flashlight with ZWB2, from my tests it doesn't emit IR.
I don't have a 395 I don't know its emission.

 

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take advantage of a sunny day... with the new A7 fs and Meritar ƒ:8...+30% saturation ... fancy white balance fantasy WB

 

QB39 - 200iso 1/640"

DSC04544_qb39.jpg.5177c4cc9c0891e59e7d2ac9b84dd4ef.jpg

 

 

TSN575+QB29 - 200iso 1/125"

DSC04545_tsnqb29.jpg.d31fdfb155a5ac949a948079c4185e83.jpg

 

 

TSN575+ZWB3 - 200iso 1/6"

DSC04547_tsnzwb3.jpg.c6465bbed2c04a9ed92e2f93858f43a6.jpg

 

 

TSN575+ZWB2 - 200iso 1"

DSC04548_tsnzwb2.jpg.cc723ed7da105dc0691986cb5fd2bf1e.jpg

 

 

TSN575+ZWB1 - 200iso 2,5"

DSC04549_tsnzwb1.jpg.55b1e19e94e4e4a6aaa9035a78f0ee7a.jpg

 

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Very nice colours Tony and creative WB.

To my taste the first one is a bit oversaturated.

 

It reminds me a bit of the images you got from the old Kodachrome 64.

I never liked that film. Especially the red poppy we have here looked like red traffic lights.

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2 hours ago, ulf said:

 

It reminds me a bit of the images you got from the old Kodachrome 64.

I never liked that film. Especially the red poppy we have here looked like red traffic lights.

Thanks @ulf

yes, you're right, I put +30% saturation in all, in the first it was useless.

Colors that resemble the legendary Kodakrome 25 with development E4 ... I loved :)


the red flower is a Dimorphotheca is a genus of plants in the family Asteraceae, native to Africa. is one of eight genera of the Calenduleae.

the color is very similar to natural but more saturated, (the colors are a little compressed because I converted it from AdobeRGB to sRGB),

this is still in the first phase, it broke from the plant, then when it matures it lightens, the part central has blue reflections, and has splendid stamens.

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