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UltravioletPhotography

UV-B of an unknown Cactoo


lukaszgryglicki

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lukaszgryglicki

Hi, I'm not a biologist, here is a visible photo (Fuji 50R + Micro Nikkor AF 105/2.8):

 

And here is UV-B (and possibly some shortest wave UV-A) version (Fuji 50R mono quartz + UV-Nikkor + IV308 + Hoya U-340 4mm, exposures 2+ min, ISO 200 or 400, f=16/22):

 

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Andy Perrin

Seconding what Colin said, do some regular UV-A for comparison, so we can see the differences. Tricolor too.

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These are interesting. 

Do you have a 405nm type filter? That could work as a good "red", with your 308nm for "blue" and an UVA filter for "green".

Also using a wratten 47 (blue)  58 (green) and either 25 or 29 (red) would be interesting to see the color from your monochrome converted camera. 

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lukaszgryglicki

I don't have 405nm filter, but I can use "hot mirror" from Kolari or Hoya - they are supposed to pass mostly visible.

So that would make:

- UV-B - my current stack.

- UV-A - I have maaaaaany options, but I guess UVR Optics StraightEdgeU would be best - it has very steep curve cutting around 400nm and passing UV.

- Visible - hot mirror

- Or maybe Hoya R72 - for IR.

 

That gives 4 channels to mix.

I just need time for this and perfect alignment which will be the biggest issue IMHO.

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  • 1 month later...
lukaszgryglicki

I now have even better UV-B only stack - double invisible vision 308 nm stack (I call it DIV308).

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