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UltravioletPhotography

[UVC SAFETY WARNING] Easy mod to get a UVC sensitive sensor?


Lou Jost

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@lukaszgryglicki,

You have a sensor with not much on it. The CFA is removed,  the microlenses are gone. It should pass UVC, as its silicon and a quartz coverglass.

Side question,  how does the aliasing compare to your regular 50R? The trick Fujifilm did with the 50s is use a small microlens on the sensor (0.8x what would normally be used)  for increased sharpness.  Basically the same as on the 100Mpixel chip. I wonder if you see any major differences between your MaxMax cameraand the stock camera. 

 

So your equipment should be capable,  just being an older Sony front side detection chip, it will be hard to know the sensitivity. 

 

@Lou Jost,

As Jonathan said its possible but the image quality will suck. I didn't like the image quality from the UVC imager and was still looing for better. The Raspberry pi sensor is fun to play with, from MaxMax.  Its a BSI sensor and bare, no glass. So you have to be careful with it. But you can do UVC movies if and only if you have excellent filters. Which seems to be the problem people have. 

 

I too have been very short on time and have everything still packed up. Haven't unpacked yet as moved my stuff to a smaller location.

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@lukaszgryglicki,

Thinking a bit more about the IMX161 sensor in the 50R, it would have the metal wire guide on the top and a decent space to the actual silicon.  It may not be able to record as deep as the newer BSI design.  But I don't know.  Most of the newer deep wavelength detection stuff I have seen has been with BSI designed sensors. 

I was able to see UVC with my Em5mk2 which has a front side IMX109 sensor.

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lukaszgryglicki

I also see a strange effect, like from this email:



When I use a very wide angle lens (GF Fujinon 20-35/4) - then the center of frame is razor sharp but edges become blurred.

No matter if I use this lens with full spectrum (no filters) or with IR alone (Kolari IR pass filter), visible alone (Kolari UV/IR cut) or UV-alone (Kolari UV filter). Edges are becoming blurred no matter the aperture.

If I use exact same lens on non-converted camera (also Fuji 50R - stock one) - it is razor shart even in farthest corners.

 

My understanding is that light hitting edge or corner areas of sensor - hits it with sharp angle (like 30 degrees or mayby 45 degrees) and because there are no microlenses it "gets registered" in more pixels somehow... This is NOT your fault, when I set zoom to 30-35 then it becomes much sharper (at 35 it is actually almost 100% fine). This is not happening with 45-100/4 GF zoom, also not GF 80/1.7, GF 50/3.5 and GF 250/4 - this *only* happens for wide/ultra wide angle...

 

This is at least interesting ... do you think my explaination makes sense?

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