3D-printing is very useful for UVR photographers

[rfcurry]

When I couldn't find filter rings deep enough for my filters (with some threads left over for lens hood attachment) I purchased a good quality 3D printer, in order to create my own filter rings. I was surprised at all the other things that suddenly appeared as "needs" that the new printer could meet.

 

It took me a few weeks to come up to speed with programming languages and slicer software. However, once I was able to code internal and external threads, the filter rings took shape. Of course, if I can make a 52mm filter ring, then an adapter for a Praktina lens to an M42 mount as a simple morphing of that. I'm using black PETG, a very hard, durable, UV-resistant plastic, which produces a fine double-helix, 0.75 pitch thread. I get good results with a layer thickness of 0.02mm; I could go thinner but it wouldn't improve the output and would take longer. I find it very liberating to be able to quickly produce virtually any camera attachments that strike my fancy. I heartily recommend 3D printing to anyone who uses, or wishes to use, old lenses with outdated lens mounts, or those rare individuals who want to create their own lenses.

 

Here are a few seconds of a filter ring being built: https://uvroptics.com/images/3D_Printing.mp4

 

 

[colinbm]

Too clever Reed.

[Nate]

I found a guy once that printed adapters for 1.25in filters to be mounted in camera bodies, luckily I snagged one before he moved on to other things. I think having a 3D printer for our hobby will be very valuable. Too bad I have so many side hobbies to get my own.

[Andy Perrin]

My main problem (in many parts of my life) is that I have no place to put a 3D printer (or any other sizable object) in my tiny studio apartment in Boston. There are many other things I would like but have nowhere to put also. Chairs, for one. 

[KaJashey]

Ya, I love 3d printing for photography. That is the main thing I use 3d printing for. I started on an AnyCubic too. It printed really well even if the parts were Chinese made and kinda off. Use it and learn from it.

 

FreeCAD has an optional Fasteners Workbench You can make a metric rod and modify it to be 52mm 0.75mm threading. Then you can use that as a part boolean add or subtract from your models. I find 52mm thread wears out really quick printed in plastic. PLA is supposed to be more dimensionally accurate but I doubt it's strength for the application.

[OlDoinyo]

I have had my son 3-d print some things for me as well. It is sometimes handier than scouring the net to see if some obscure adapter even exists.

[otoien]

On 11/6/2022 at 7:25 AM, KaJashey said:

Ya, I love 3d printing for photography. That is the main thing I use 3d printing for. I started on an AnyCubic too. It printed really well even if the parts were Chinese made and kinda off. Use it and learn from it.

 

FreeCAD has an optional Fasteners Workbench You can make a metric rod and modify it to be 52mm 0.75mm threading. Then you can use that as a part boolean add or subtract from your models. I find 52mm thread wears out really quick printed in plastic. PLA is supposed to be more dimensionally accurate but I doubt it's strength for the application.

FreeCAD is quite nice, *much* better than the current version # would imply. I was aware of the Fastener Workbench, but it did not occur to me that it could take on such use for photography. No immediate needs but certainly something to keep in mind.

[rfcurry]

KaJashey,

 

The Anycubic Vyper seems well-made and the auto-leveling is superb. 

I looked at FreeCAD but decided upon OpenSCAD instead. The OpenSCAD modelling code is quite intuitive, the flexibility is there, the userbase is large, and the output STL seems clean in Cura. 

I have not found wear to be an issue with PETG, the 0.75 pitch threads are crisp and rugged, in my, limited, experience. I've used PETG from three different sources, with positive results in each. I have yet to use PLA, as it is not robust enough, I am told, for outdoor applications. I am still learning about additive technology, having used subtractive (mill and lathe) in prior employment, many years ago. Both are CNC, but the difference is fascinating. 

[Dmitry]

Im trying squaring the circle and my friend made this for me using PETG plastic.

This first version is very tight, going to grab fixed version soon.