Jump to content
UltravioletPhotography

Best & Worst Cameras for Conversion (Updates Welcomed !)


Andrea B.

Recommended Posts

side note to Col:  That Sigma fp *is* an unusual camera ! That is not meant to be perjorative. I've never seen this "modular" style before. Noted photographer Steve Huff did a review of the Sigma fp and loved its color. I was so impressed reading the review I nearly went and bought one!!

REVIEW LINK: https://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2019/11/11/sigma-fp-camera-review-tried-one-then-bought-it-heres-why/

Link to comment

Maybe there should be some indication of how often a problem might be an issue, to not warn off people from cameras where the problem is seen rarely and just in a few situations.

There is no such thing as a perfect camera.

 

My Sony A7III is indicated as a problem camera, but when you dig into the links about the problem you can see that it is easy to fix, if you ever encounter the problem.

https://blog.kasson.com/a7riii/sony-a7iii-pdaf-striping-faqs/

 

 

Link to comment

Sorry for the delay.

 

Fuji, I tested the X-T20 at 12800ISO and B(Bulb) 30s. All black, no trace of white lines.

The WB is very well managed and visible with 3 custom WBs + Fine-Tuning WB. In the studio, I really appreciate the viewing via HDMI on a large external 24” screen of Checking Focus, Checking Exposure and the WB. The screen is also used for the photomicrography with another X-T20 and microscope.

I also appreciate the « My Menu »: Access a personalized menu of frequently used options : WB, ISO, shutter type, photometry, interval timer shooting….

 

The only problem with Fuji is the settings of manual flashes. Since 2009, I was used to the D70 which was excellent.

After 25 years with Canon and then 25 years with Nikon, which I still use in macro, I like Fuji for photomicro and UV.

 

I guess my X-T2 with it gives the same results as the X-T20.

 

RAW (RAF Fuji) are very well processed by Capture One.

 

My 2 Fujis X-T20 (studio) and X-T2 with grip VPB-X-T2 (exterior) have been modified by Sven Lamprecht info@IRreCams.de, www.IRreCams.de

 

Link to comment

Ulf:  Maybe there should be some indication of how often a problem might be an issue,

to not warn off people from cameras where the problem is seen rarely and just in a few situations. 

 

I did that already. Today I added some bolding and italics to what I wrote and added a remark that mostly striping does not occur at all:  

 

"Horizontal banding or striping artifacts due to PDAF are sometimes seen in some photos from some cameras listed below. If that sounds a bit vague, well, it is, because the problem does not occur regularly with any camera and under most ambient shooting conditions, it does not occur at all."

 

I also already explained how PDAF striping occurs (flare.) And, I already have that exact link you gave in the link list which mentions fixing the problem in Raw Therapee or other converters.

 

But to be sure all readers understand, I added a sentence at the beginning as follows:

 

"This is NOT a warning about avoiding certain mirrorless cameras. It is simply meant to be educational so that you know more about PDAF striping if it does occur."

 

So I think we're good, yes? 😁


 

Ulf:  There is no such thing as a perfect camera.

 

So true !!! 😀

Link to comment

Yves, thank you for the info about Fuji-X bodies. I'm adding them to the "good" list. 😄

Link to comment

QUESTION:  Can Canon DSLR conversions measure white balance in-camera under a dark UV-pass or IR-pass filter? 

Thanks in advance for any information.

Link to comment
54 minutes ago, Andrea B. said:

 

 

"This is NOT a warning about avoiding certain mirrorless cameras. It is simply meant to be educational so that you know more about PDAF striping if it does occur."

 

So I think we're good, yes? 😁

 


 

 

Ulf:  There is no such thing as a perfect camera.

 

So true !!! 😀

Thanks Andrea, we're good.

I might also be a sloppy reader due to my dyslexia and you also improve the text over and over in a good way.

 

Another thing that might be interesting to add is some link to the noise / dynamic range comparisons at dpreview.com.

As most of our photo styles hit very extreme WB and long exposure times low noise sensors with good dynamic range is quite essential.

I used the dpreview tool to select my A7 III when I was searching for a good mirrorless camera, to replace my Canon 60D

Link to comment

when i got the Z5 (christmas 2021) i was thinking in the future ... "primaluce"

but seems to be on your bad list

probably my bad/broken A7 ... or a A7r is best

Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki

Both my Nikons D600 also have light leaks similar to Andrea's. At least when you try to push them with just Hoya U-340 4mm + SB8612 2mm. I think this may be generic for D600 - but this kind of problem is easy solved.

Link to comment


I found a Sony A7r at a very attractive price, less than an A7
It is worth taking it to do it F.S. or is it better to look for an A7?

 

P.S.

I was advised by Vivek to let it go :)

Link to comment
Andy Perrin

I’m loving my (so-far unconverted) A7iii. Even debating if I want to convert, it’s so nice as a visible light camera. I may have to get another to convert, hah.

Link to comment

If considering a Sony A7-series camera for FS-conversion and then using it with odd, non-dedicated lenses, I think the big step Sony took to the iii-versions is important to consider. Among other things that step gave IBIS for all lenses, not only the ones the camera could detect and communicate with via an electronic interface in the lens.

The iii-variants also use a bigger battery with better capacity for more on time and images.

 

I am glad to see that my love for the A7III is shared by Andy.

I will definitely use my FS-converted A7III for some visual light too, with either a mount-adapter equipped with an internal BG38 or some BG glass at the front of the lens.

That is the cheaper alternative I have chosen instead of getting a second A7III for visual only.

 

Link to comment
Andy Perrin

1500 €! I paid much less than that for my used one. I forget how many clicks but not all that many. I paid about the same number but in $. 

Link to comment
34 minutes ago, photoni said:

a used A7III with many shots costs 1500 €

That is almost what I paid for a new A7III almost three years ago.

I had mine converted in the UK by Alan Bucht https://www.infraredcameraconversions.co.uk/

I am very satisfied with his conversion.

 

If you want a FS converted A7III, it might be possible to find one with low shutter count in the UK, at eBay and  the get it converted there before shipping it to Italy.

There will be VAT costs in the end, but possibly just for the conversion, with some luck, if you buy the camera for delivery in UK and then pay for the conversion.

 

You might start communicating with Alan.

Stefano got his second Canon M from him and I think the service has been excellent.

Link to comment

I can confirm what Ulf said. Alan converts cameras to full-spectrum leaving the sensor coverglass only, and adjusting the sensor's "depth" to correct for that (the focus point changes without the original glass layers). I asked him to adjust the sensor as forward as possible to be sure to have infinity focus, and he did it.

Link to comment

Well this is only a guess but I found the following quantum efficiency curve for the Nikon DS-Qi2 sensor here:

https://www.microscope.healthcare.nikon.com/products/cameras/ds-qi2

 

This cuts off hard at just before 350nm. This is the monochrome sensor version for the sensor that is used in the Nikon D4 and Nikon Df cameras.  Thus I am assuming a similar hard cutoff before 350nm and little sensitive into the UV range for the Df camera.

 

This DS-Qi2 is interesting monochrome camera, with Nikon F-mount.  Its controlled by a computer though, so not easily portable.  Too bad Nikon didn't make a Df monochrome version using this sensor.  Would have been easy for them to add a DfM option and they might have sold more cameras that way.

Link to comment

....used in the Nikon D4 and Nikon Df cameras.

 

Nice find, David, about the sensor curve.

The Big D Nikons are unconvertible, so I have read, because of the IR LED thing.

Link to comment

UPDATE 26 MAY 2022:

Consolidated material from UV Photography Sticky about best/worst cameras for conversion into THIS topic.

Left links in that Sticky to this topic.

Added Oldies But Goodies list from UV Photography Sticky.

 

REMINDER:  This topic may be frequently edited for a while longer. 

I try to refine the topic for clarity. Or rewrite anything confusing.

And of course, additional information is welcome and will be added.

Link to comment
1 hour ago, Andrea B. said:

....used in the Nikon D4 and Nikon Df cameras.

 

Nice find, David, about the sensor curve.

The Big D Nikons are unconvertible, so I have read, because of the IR LED thing.

I read somewhere that the Df doesn't have that IR shutter monitor thing. But can't remember where.

Also its not on the Kolari list. 

Link to comment
lukaszgryglicki

I have a Df but not converted - is there a way that I can check it for you?

 

Link to comment
3 hours ago, photoni said:

does anyone comment on the Z5?
from the reviews it looked great

Search for Birna's reviews. Generally seems ok, but does occasionally have banding issues.

Link to comment
2 hours ago, dabateman said:

Search for Birna's reviews. Generally seems ok, but does occasionally have banding issues.

I asked Birna 13 speeches ago, but I see she is still blacklisted.

I haven't heard of this Nikon since its long review

Link to comment

Canon EOS 6D (original)

My first full spectrum converted Canon EOS 6D was converted by Spencer's.  The original hot mirror was removed and replaced with a clear filter. It was affected on the left side of the image at long exposures. I was able subtract it out most of the time and it didn't affect shorter exposures up to 10s at ISO3200 or longer low ISO exposures.

Here is a dark frame ISO3200, 3min (180s), sharpening & NR turned off:

image.jpeg.a65f534b39fdd02236d534d8b7123d56.jpeg

 

My second full spectrum converted Canon EOS 6D was converted by the Sydney based OZ Camera Modification about 6 months ago.  The hot mirror was removed with no replacement filter (naked sensor). The advantage with a naked sensor modification is that you can use wide angle lenses with clip in filters (behind lens) for astro without serious coma issues at the frame edges. This is because the glass between the lens and the sensor is restored to its correct total thickness. Also as seen below, there is no internal light issues. 

Here is a dark frame at ISO6400, 2min (120s), sharpening & NR turned off:

image.jpeg.216c8a09b26753c64cf7fc4a60e049d5.jpeg

 

Here is the same dark frame boosted by +3.0 EV:

image.jpeg.116e165af2f27020eaa1affa93db2f69.jpeg

 

One thing to remember is to turn off the live view before taking your shots. This affects both the Canon EF 16-35 f4L & the Sigma 28mm f1.4 Art

Dark frame at ISO6400, 2min (120s), sharpening & NR turned off, live view on - Ouch!

image.jpeg.324ae97774c483afe8faa6d6de7b6360.jpeg

 

Link to comment

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...