Beast and fluorescing snow

[Nate]

I figured I'd try out the UV Beast 365, not bad for a tight beam.

Went outside with it tonight, and was surprised how snow absorbs the visual light and fluoresces things on it and in it. All shots were iso200 and varying .5-1sec f5.6

 

Canon 77D FS, clip in uv/ir cut 1.25 filter (never planed on doing visual again just used one I had laying around), Rokinon 135 F/2

UV Beast V3

 

Pretty cool what the wind storms have left in the different layers of snow

 

Lonely leaf in it's Winter journey

 

Sea shell fluoresces really bright, something you find in the snow everyday

 

Under exposed snow because of the shells brightness

 

[colinbm]

Very interesting & particularly the fluorescent shell.

[Nate]

          I was quite amazed to see it out there @colinbm    I might need to dig out all the rocks and stuff my dad saved years ago

[colinbm]

" I might need to dig out all the rocks and stuff my dad saved years ago "
I hope you find some nice glowing rocks....

[Guest]

Looks so off-world.

[Doug A]

@Natethe Beast did well. very creative idea! The shell is a great find. It and the leaf are my favorites. It is supposed to snow here tomorrow. Thanks for the idea and motivation.

Thanks for sharing,

Doug A

[Nate]

No problem @Doug A so much still to discover, I'm enjoying the journey.

[Guest]

The UV beast v3 365nm is bright very bright but that triple beam is so difficult to use for macro photography I end up only getting the value of one led from the group even at half a meter distance.

 

I ended up using the less bright Lumen Shooter 365nm that is also sold on Amazon. I can hold it closer to the subject as where I stand and it gets more even coverage for all 3 leds so I just use two of them instead. But the UVbeast is definitely what I take outside exploring at night or for blasting things at a distance.

 

Do you think there could be a way to collimate the beams for a closer working distance?

 

 

[Doug A]

@Blazer0ne is collimation the answer? Perhaps diffusion would work better. I've seen sanded cd cases used to diffuse the image. This would combine the out of 3 LEDs. A little light loss, perhaps not since you're using so little now.

 

Thanks,

Doug A

[Guest]

I will try that. Thanks!

[Cadmium]

Try removing the reflector and see how that works.

[Guest]

The front is removable. I can also try that. Thanks!

 

BTW, The leaf photo I think is my favorite because it looks like it is floating in outer space amongst stars.

[Nate]

16 hours ago, Blazer0ne said:

Looks so off-world.

Thanks, It really does now that you mention it

[Doug A]

@Blazer0ne be careful removing the reflector. Didn't one of the torches tested by @ulf use it as part of the heat management system?

 

Thanks,

Doug A

 

[Cadmium]

Ah... Doug has a good point.
I have a Convoy C8, which I think is the exact same torch except mine is for visual, has only one LED, and may be shorter with only one battery.

I just took the reflector out and it may use the reflector as part of the heat  sink. Not sure how much though, because there is a little plastic separator ring between the reflector base and the LED board, which would insulate the transfer of heat from the LED to the reflector.
However, removing the reflector removes  definition from the beam.
 

[ulf]

The part in the heat transfer is to push the PCB via the plastic ring against the thermal paste and aluminum behind the LED.

This is also exactly how the Nemo is designed.

 

In the Alonefire the reflector is pulled back with the center screw and pushing the LED PCB good onto the heat paste.

That torch's weak point for thermal transfer is the contact between the rear aluminum part and the outer shell via a thread and that the rear prt is too thin.

It would also need more heat sink area.

[Guest]

Here is the partial look at the inside of the UV Beast.

 

Reflector is glued or pressed fitted into a metal housing.  A flat metal plate connected to the back side of the diodes which appear to be mounted in maybe ceramic cylinders. The front side of that plate has solder joints and looks to have some type of electrical insulation. The driver is mounted inside a metal housing which might be removable from the backside with spanners. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest]

Here are the guts. 

 

 

[ulf]

This is a nice electronics design.

Can you please try to see how many of the 342L components there are on the board.

I suspect there are a few hidden below below the big inductor-coil too.

 

[Guest]

The solder joints look good but they didn't bother to wash off the flux. I will get back to you on the chip count. Other than the unlabeled chip under the inductor there were a few others buggers hiding under there.

 

Finally, the LED board. More leftover flux and some sticky rubber cement like material on the backside of the metal housing.

 

 

 

 

[Guest]

46 minutes ago, ulf said:

Can you please try to see how many of the 342L components there are on the board.

 

Five.

 

PM if you need any other info on this board. 

 

Cheers