[Marco Lagemaat]

Hi !

What a great forum!!! And a big discovery.

 

My Name is Marco Lagemaat, from the Netherlands.

 

When I turned 18 I bought from my first sellery a Minolta dynax505si. Sinds than I loved to let others know how I experience the world, and let them see what I see.

About 10 years ago I started my own business (wedding, portrait, entertainment business etc) unfortunately without success because of a low self esteem. I didn’t had the boldness to ask the money which I was worth.

So later People discovered my talent and offered me a job as assistant photographer. From there I worked myself up as a photographer. (Product, macro, portrait, drone, landscape and project photography)

Unfortunately after a period of time the owner of the company was declared bankrupt.

 

So there I was… left with me and my hobby…

In the Netherlands is it hard to find a fulltime job without the graduation papers.

Therefore I was forced to re-educate myself for a sustain income.

 

Now I challenged myself t discover a world which I did not know off but I only heard about.

And there started my journey into the world of UV/IR.

 

I reassembled my first Nikon (D70) to a full spectrum camera. And that is awesome

[Andy Perrin]

Hi! Welcome!

 

You can upload by clicking the More Reply Options button, and then Choose File, select the file to upload, upload it, and then hit Attach This File to insert it where you want it to be in the text.

[dabateman]

Welcome,

I look forward to seeing your work.

Since you discovered the emojis, it shouldn't be hard to get those photos up.

You can even upload from a phone, which is how I mostly access this forum.

 

[Marco Lagemaat]

Welcome,

I look forward to seeing your work.

Since you discovered the emojis, it shouldn't be hard to get those photos up.

You can even upload from a phone, which is how I mostly access this forum.

 

Thanks haha. I did it on my phone so therefor I couldn't find it.

[Marco Lagemaat]

So... here is my first work.. and remember I really need to learn a lot.

but, just shoot on it. I am eager to learn.

 

I am aware of a very dirty sensor... It is without transparant protection glass. (advice were to by online is welcome).

 

- edit-

I use from Aliexpress (supplier Tangsinuo) the ZWB2 UG-1 stacked with BG39.

 

So... here is my first work.. and remember I really need to learn a lot.

but, just shoot on it. I am eager to learn.

 

I am aware of a very dirty sensor... It is without transparant protection glass. (advice were to by online is welcome).

 

- edit-

I use from Aliexpress (supplier Tangsinuo) the ZWB2 UG-1 stacked with BG39.

[Andy Perrin]

Excellent. How are you doing your white balancing? These photos look like they have a cast to them, and many new UV photographers are not aware that certain programs like Adobe can’t make a custom UV white balance.

[Marco Lagemaat]

Excellent. How are you doing your white balancing? These photos look like they have a cast to them, and many new UV photographers are not aware that certain programs like Adobe can’t make a custom UV white balance.

 

I use styrofoam as "greycard". I noticed that it "white" appears in UV/VIS/ (IR--> not sure).

My primary edit software is CaptureOne and for deeper editing of course Adobe Photoshop.

 

CaptureOne is able to do a higher value white balance. or in other words a custom set point.

 

But how do you describe the cast on the photo? and where can I find the solution?

The setting are from the budgerigar.

[Andy Perrin]

You should probably use PTFE (Teflon) as your WB material. I'm not sure if that styrofoam is UV-white or not? But there could also be some other issue (or maybe even it's fine, I would like to hear what other members say!).

 

I think I am seeing oranges in the images, and that is not a color that we see usually unless there is either contamination or a white balance issue. But your filter stack sounded ok. CaptureONe is also ok.

[nfoto]

I think Andy had in mind an overall brownish cast to the images.We usually don't see much of that hue in our UV images.

 

With a properly filtered UV capture, doing a 'click-white' on a piece of white teflon (PTFE) will hopefully bring the false colours under control.

[Marco Lagemaat]

I think Andy had in mind an overall brownish cast to the images.We usually don't see much of that hue in our UV images.

 

With a properly filtered UV capture, doing a 'click-white' on a piece of white teflon (PTFE) will hopefully bring the false colours under control.

 

That sounds like a great advise! Thanks Birna and Andy! I will go after the PTFE.

[Andy Perrin]

By the way, I noticed your image file size is really large - you should probably keep it to <500k or so, or you will run out of storage on the board really quickly!

[Marco Lagemaat]

Today I did some testing for white balancing because of the given advice.

For me it’s not clear what the problem is and how to solve the problem about the cast you can see on the photos in my previous post.

 

The test was to see what kind of bandwidth you could see and hopefully to discover the solution.

so, my thought was to capture some "pure" UV rays..... well... I don't know.

On the picture you see a VIS image of the small setup. I took my insect lamp to have some UV light. (I don't know the bandwidth) And a germicide lamp because I knew it was UV-C. My hope was to see the difference between the UV bands.

I took a peace of plexiglas and different peace of plastics to cover the insect lamp so the rays could reflect on the peace of PTFE.

In the front you see the UV-C lamp with a peace of PTFE so I could see the reflection of the UV-C.

As proof of seeing UV rays I took my glasses which contain a UV-filter in it.

in between you see a cilinder of Plexiglas to see what the effect would be. I also made a picture with UV-C lamp in the cilinder to see if it would block the rays. funny note you can see my fingerprints on the paper in front of the insect lamp.

 

Conclusion;

I was really surprised to see the blue light coming thru the plastic. I don't know why! my thought was that it would block the UV-rays so I could only see the reflection on the PTFE sheet.

I knew that the UV-C (25Watt)rays would be dimmer than the light of the insect lamp (2x 16 watt). So it left me with more questions than answers.

 

So what to do next?

[Marco Lagemaat]

By the way, I noticed your image file size is really large - you should probably keep it to <500k or so, or you will run out of storage on the board really quickly!

 

Done! thanks for the tip. I already noticed.

[Andy Perrin]

Whoa, don't play around with UV-C at all is my first suggestion. Second suggestion is that if you are going to do UV-C experiments, you should either enclose the whole apparatus in a UV-C-proof box, or trigger the lights and camera remotely from another room. UV-C causes skin burns, cancer, etc. You do NOT want to mess with it without precautions.

 

As to what you are seeing here, it's pretty hard to know without more information about your filters, lens, camera, and the spectra of the plastics involved. I rather doubt you are seeing the UV-C directly, though, more likely it's UV-A.

 

I think it's either official board rule or soon-to-be that any UVC experiments need precautions and some kind of description of those precautions in the text.

[Marco Lagemaat]

Whoa, don't play around with UV-C at all is my first suggestion. Second suggestion is that if you are going to do UV-C experiments, you should either enclose the whole apparatus in a UV-C-proof box, or trigger the lights and camera remotely from another room. UV-C causes skin burns, cancer, etc. You do NOT want to mess with it without precautions.

 

As to what you are seeing here, it's pretty hard to know without more information about your filters, lens, camera, and the spectra of the plastics involved. I rather doubt you are seeing the UV-C directly, though, more likely it's UV-A.

 

I think it's either official board rule or soon-to-be that any UVC experiments need precautions and some kind of description of those precautions in the text.

 

Ah! Yeah good suggestion. Safety first is common practice for me. Forgot to mention! My ‘studio’ has an separated room with forced ventilation to prevent ozone buildup. I shoot tethred.

[dabateman]

I too don't really understand what you're trying to do.

A germacidal bulb isn't purely 254nm. It has a sharp peak there, but since most equipment can't see that, rare for cameras to be sensitive even with fused silica conversions, then you mostly see the other Mercury lines.

I can use my germacidal bulb to image 254nm, but equally so at 313nm, 365nm and 405nm. It also has the 708nm line.

Its very weak at 302nm.

 

So 25W bulb. You will easily see all the Mercury lines. And if its an Ozone lamp, then you will see ionization of the air around it too.