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UltravioletPhotography

Filter Series :: 15 Yellow and Orange Longpass Filters :: Transmission Charts


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In my (tablet) browser, we're already on page 2 of this topic and in the meantime Ulf has posted a picture with all the filters in his first post.

Just thought I'd mention this since people may have overlooked it.

 

Indeed, in my post #22 above, I was/am comparing my group filter color shot with the group filter color shot Ulf added to his original post on the 1st page.

 

I just meant comparison photos using the filter on the lens just to compare false color/look.

I don't remember using the OG530 before myself. I have used OG550, OG570, and OG590, and there is difference between those with foliage color and such.

I would expect your version of the 099 works very much the same as the OG530 filter, given Ulf's scan and the filter color comparison.

I suppose I can do some comparison shots with the OG530 vs OG550 when weather improves, of course that is not using the more orange looking 099 filter like you, and Ulf (and maybe some others) have.

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Ah yes I appreciate the advice Steve. It just sounded a bit like we don't need to talk about the technical side of things while, as I see it, this forum is meant for just that :smile:

What I'm curious about is why there was a shift in filters from yellow to orange used for IR color photography.

Logic tells me we only want to block blue and use that channel for IR while passing red and green for visible light.

So yellow 520-530nm would suffice (my 099 is really close to that).

But nowadays (and even before the digital era) the preference has shifted to 550nm filters, also blocking part of the green part of the spectrum.

Of course I can just get me an orange 550nm and see if perhaps I get better results than the 099 I've been using up till now but before I do I'd like to know the reason why people started using it instead of 520-530nm.

 

That was my intent, pertaining back to your original question about finding a 67mm version of your 099 (more orange version).

From all this research I would guess that if you want a 67mm version of the 099 you have been using, then probably a 530nm longpass filter would come closest to the same results (instead of 550nm).

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Thanks, David. I'm itching to see what it does outside of this box, to see if it has any value for IR or UV.

 

We maybe outside the topic here. But I was reminded of this post:

https://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php/topic/3625-80-abcd/page__view__findpost__p__31838

 

Look at the brown curve. That might be a 80A filter. It seems to be flat in UV, not unexpected, but all so low into the IR.

Maybe why it works for Timber as an IR reduction filter with the Lee 729 for IR chrome like images.

 

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Thanks, for this, David & Nisei.

 

As Nisei says, the brown line is labelled as 80C. The following post by Cadmium implies that 80A would be similar, but probably with stronger transmission bias towards blue because it is designed to achieve a stronger colour temperature shift.

 

I am a bit surprised that the 80C cuts off so sharply at around the UV boundary - I would have anticipated a dyed-in-the-mass blue filter would tail off more gradually.

 

This graph is for the Tiffen 80C. I gues the secifications for the 80x family are all expressed in the visible region, so other brands may act quite differently in UV & IR.

 

What I was looking for was a blue separation filter for tri-colour work. I've now gone for a Midwest Optical BP470, which looks almost perfect when combined with a UV/IR cut filter to remove the UV tail.

 

PS: just spotted that Cadmium has included an 80A graph in this post - but again only n the visible range: https://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php/topic/3669-eir-aero-photos/page__fromsearch__1

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Yes, we ARE off topic.

 

80A/B/C/D are original to Wratten gel filters. They are only color temperature correction filters.

https://en.wikipedia.../Wratten_number

 

For tricolor separation Wratten has 25, 47, 47B, 58,and 61.

 

Then there are minus filters, 12, 32, 34A, 44, and 44A.

 

And don't forget about the chocolate/brown filters, sepia and tobacco 1, 2, and 3 (Tiffen), and Lee 156, which are kind of reverse to the temperature correction 80X filters,

with a touch of Redhancer 491 or Schott BG36 tossed in to accentuate a few colors.

Hint: Purple foliage, blue skies, and other visual colors, out of camera.

 

Topic alert! :wink:

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I am a bit surprised that the 80C cuts off so sharply at around the UV boundary - I would have anticipated a dyed-in-the-mass blue filter would tail off more gradually.

The 80CHM is a combined 80C + hot mirror filter, designed for the RED ONE camera that lacks an internal hot mirror.

https://www.yumpu.co...chart-steadicam

 

Topic alert!

Split to new topic from post #30 onwards?

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  • 4 months later...
I still suggest that someone do an actual photo comparison between the Nisea 099 yellow filter and one of the more orange looking Schott RG550/usual B+W 099 like I have two of, or the B+W 040 like I also have,

to see how they compare in an actual photograph.

I would rather doubt myself that they are exactly the same, however, it can be a bit hard to differentiate 522nm from 550nm in photos, and the point being, it may not be enough to worry about depending on what you are wanting.

I just think a photo comparison would be interesting since that is what the original use was about.

I would do it, but I don't have one of those yellower 099 filters.

Steve, I have both the old and new version of the 099 filter now.

The weather's great here at the moment so just tell me what you'd like to see and I'll take some shots.

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Will be taken care of.

I'm going to do some side by side with 729 and 115 under the same lighting conditions to make a fair comparison.

The reds turned out way more orange than my crappy camera display was showing though.

But still I think I rather have the wide color palette the 115 produces and use selective color tuning than the very restricted color palette the 729 produces.

Mind you, it's not my intention to come as close as possible to Kodochrome EIR, I prefer using a yellow/orange filter and channel swap for that.

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