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UltravioletPhotography

Profoto A1 for Canon


Zlieb43

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I understand. For some reason (probably because most people here do more reflectography than fluorescence) I thought you might have a full spectrum camera handy.
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I understand. For some reason (probably because most people here do more reflectography than fluorescence) I thought you might have a full spectrum camera handy.

 

No worries :)

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Andy wanted you to do a UV test, but without a full spectrum camera, you can't do such a test.

You want to shoot UVIVF (UV induced visual fluorescence), big fancy scientific term for fluorescence photography.

You can do UVIVF with a stock camera, no problem there...

but you can't do the suggested test with one, is why I asked.

You might be able to do a fluorescence test...? comparing fluorescence shots, using the flash, with/without the glass, nothing in front of the flash tube...

But that will not exactly tell you how much UV the tube emits... and be advised that bare tube situations are more dangerous...

The glass is there for a reason. Multiple reasons, protection against UV and tube explosions, I would guess...

Off the top of my head, I can't think of any way to test it for UV, other than take two shots of something that you know fluoresces,

one shot with the glass in front of the tube, and one shot without the glass, compared...

still not conclusive, but it might tell you something.

Just be careful.

 

Oh yeah... but you can't do that because you don't have the UV-only filters to do that with yet...

sorry, forgot.

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I may have asked before, but what is the size (diameter) of the flash bezel on the front that you removed? And thickness?

I see two little sensors that have special view holes through the bezel...

I would not expect those to work the same way with a UV converted flash, whatever they do... so keep that aspect in mind.

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On a side note, does anyone know how to use the canon 199a? I just bought one, it powers up fine, back illumination of buttons works fine but if I try the test button it doesn't work, did I buy a shot flash?

When the Canon 199A charges there is a whining sound with a changing pitch.

 

Eventually when the capacitor is charged enough to fire the lamp behind the test button shall turn on.

When considered fully charged the lamp starts to blink.

If all that happens, but you cannot fire the flash with the test button you might still be able to fire it with a camera.

The flash trigger voltage is quite safe for this model.

 

If the test button lamp never turns on the flash's capacitor could be dead.

 

The electronics in this flash is rather primitive.

Charging is slow. 10-20s is not unusual.

 

It can be extra slow if the capacitor is partially working but leaking due to having not been used for long time.

Then leaving it on, charging some time will rejuvenate it at least partially.

 

The light output between steady and blinking light can be ather big if fired in Manual mode.

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I may have asked before, but what is the size (diameter) of the flash bezel on the front that you removed? And thickness?

I see two little sensors that have special view holes through the bezel...

I would not expect those to work the same way with a UV converted flash, whatever they do... so keep that aspect in mind.

 

I know, those are just modeling light lamps, not needed.

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The gods have answered my prayers, I just got confirmation from the techs who build the lenses, the tube inside is not UV coated! So, correct me if I am wrong, but that means the conversion kit will work, right Cadmium?
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Sadly, only way to know is to test it. Hopefully the cost isn't too much to stomach.

 

We never got down to how you want to take fluorescent images though. Are you creating a work space in your dark basement or are you outside walking around?

 

In the basement (no light competition area) you can use cheap uv led light sources.

 

In the feild (outside walking around) you will need power and strong light sources. So a flash setup will be needed to over power the ambient light.

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Depending on required glass diameter, you can 'try out' the needed flash stack without too much commitment with me.

69mm dia would be ideal for me, if that works that is a common size so no problem trying that size out.

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Update for everyone! I talked to the techs in Sweden and they confirmed for me, the Profoto A1 bulb does not have a UV absorbing coating, not sure of the sheer intensity of the UV spectrum that it produces, but it is able to be ocnverted to a UV flash with the proper glass!
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