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UltravioletPhotography

BEYOND project


Jim Lloyd

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Experimenting ...

 

Not fully convinced, but I think this has potential

 

D3200 Nikkor el 80mm old style f/5.6 s8612 2nm ug2a 2nm asa 800 around 1/4 sec

Green blue channel swap on raw file - auto tone,auto WB a little contrast enhancement

Some inconsistencies in how I did that

 

Work in progress !

 

Plan to refine this - doesn’t look fully white balanced, but might stick with that look or even exaggerate it

Will take many more images in same area and make into book

Book will be 3rd part in series, presented together - 1. Landscape traditional uv look 2 flowers in uv and vis - traditional wb

 

Watch “beyond midsummer” on Vimeo:

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eye4invisible

Plan to refine this - doesn’t look fully white balanced, but might stick with that look or even exaggerate it

With the D3200, I don't think it'll ever be fully white balanced. I have the same camera, and I'm unable to CWB it in UV or in IR (550nm and above).

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No that’s not true - I am able to properly white balance, but this is a choice here for artistic reasons. It’s a matter of debate / opinion whether it’s a good choice ...
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eye4invisible

No that’s not true - I am able to properly white balance, but this is a choice here for artistic reasons. It’s a matter of debate / opinion whether it’s a good choice ...

I'd really like to know how you achieve that.

 

In UV, I've never managed to CWB; in full spectrum and in IR below 550nm, I can manage it with a grey card/grey concrete; at 550nm, can manage it by taking a photo of really dry grass and using that. Everything else in IR is a no-go.

 

The CWB is not so important when I shoot raw stills, but as I am getting more into multi-spectral videography, I really want to get the CWB correct.

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Note I am quite new to this myself and there is plenty of other advice on wb elsewhere on this site

 

Most of what I have done till now used bg40 2mm+UG1 2mm

See examples on my website -follow link in post above

 

Most of the time I just use lightroom with a calibration file provided by person who did full spectrum conversion - uvircameras on eBay . This is loaded on the computer and can be applied during import into Lightroom (or you can select a set of images in develop module and apply to all. This gives a good starting point - gets rid of the overwhelming red/magenta - then I usually use the wb tool and select some foliage - the image is now usually pretty close . The last bit of getting it just right usually involves clicking on different areas, or maybe a bit of manual adjustment. In a series may then sync others with this setting and fine tune them later.

 

Above worked for me with ir also

 

For some reason doesn’t work with u330

 

For that I use Nikon view nx2 (free to download or supplied with camera ). This has always worked for me. Capture nx2 has some better features and I tried demo which was good, but I didn’t feel I needed it. I can’t quite remember - but I think you have export image in jpeg or tiff if using this.

 

I am playing around with some other options at the moment. A lot on here use photoninja

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Maybe I misunderstood - are you talking about in camera white balance ?

 

Sorry - no I have never got that to work - tried with various filters and different lighting conditions

 

You can do a little manual adjustment to any of the cameras presets or auto , but it only gives minimal improvement

 

Mostly I set the camera to monochrome for using live view

 

I am also keen on doing video, but not got far with that so far, either in camera or post processing

 

This is partly why I am looking at how much unbalanced can make artistic sense -

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eye4invisible

Maybe I misunderstood - are you talking about in camera white balance ?

Sorry - no I have never got that to work - tried with various filters and different lighting conditions

Yes, that's what I meant. Regardless of lighting conditions and reflective material used so far, I've never managed to get my D3200 to accept a CWB measurement in UV (I use the B+W 403 and S8612 stack) or in IR >550nm.

 

As a result, I usually shoot UV video in camera monochrome mode.

 

That said, I've been reading here that some use PTFE block to successfully set a CWB in UV, but not with a D3200 as far as I know. That will be the next thing I try.

 

I'm also in the process of getting an S8612 2mm thick filter (currently using a 3mm thick one, which isn't practical) and an EL-Nikkor 80mm f/5.6, so I'm also hopeful that the decreased filter thickness and better UV-capable lens will help the D3200 accept an in-camera CWB.

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Ah - sorry for the misunderstanding

 

Based on my experience - I have the filter and lens you are talking about, I don’t think you’ll have much luck. I think the modified cameras have rgb responses so different to what could have been predicted by the firmware designers which is why it doesn’t cope. Someone was talking to me the other day about magic lantern- I think that can replace the camera firmware ? Maybe then it could work ? Anyone else tried that ?

 

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eye4invisible

Someone was talking to me the other day about magic lantern- I think that can replace the camera firmware ? Maybe then it could work ? Anyone else tried that ?

Yep, Magic Lantern might be the solution, and it looks like there is a version out there for the D3200:

https://nikonhacker.com/wiki/Supported_Models

 

That said, I'm nervous about trying that - wouldn't want to brick my camera.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My latest book for this project is here

 

D3200 full spectrum conversion. U300 1.5 mm + S8612 2mm Nikkor EL 80 mm f/5.6 (old style).

"White balance" - from original raw file in Ps swap G and B then reduce amount of G in B channel to 75%. Then played freely with an "untroubled mind" - often I did auto tone and auto colour in PS - transferred to Lr to finish - just tried not to think too much. Book arrangement (Lr) - again tried not to think too much, but had in the back of my mind bird vision (I know you might say the stack isn't right - but I am being loose here) - particularly the fact that they have large field of view, but little binocular vision (talking about perching birds - like sparrow, blackbird, pigeon etc) and that they might have one eye on foraging and another looking out for prey. Anyway just wanted to play freely after the quite careful precise work on the flower book.

 

I find that being free and unthinking while making can be good - but often not! - I can only know after putting the work away for a while (maybe months) and then coming back and looking again later. Its possible that just one or two aspects might then show themselves as something useful to build on, whilst a lot gets binned. Might seem inefficient but the aim is to break out of stuck habits and make new discoveries.

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My latest book for this project is here

 

D3200 full spectrum conversion. U300 1.5 mm + S8612 2mm Nikkor EL 80 mm f/5.6 (old style).

 

Typo?

U300 = Hoya U-330?

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  • 2 weeks later...

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