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UltravioletPhotography

Panasonic Lumix DMC G3 Camera


colinbm

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Yes, thanks John.

I have mounted the G3 on a tripod, with what I think is my best UV transmitting lens, the Scheinder-Kreuznach Radionar f2.9 / 80mm lens, from an older folder, Franka Solida II MF camera.

I have used a heliciod to adjust the infinity point (FFD shortened by approx 2mm), to match the removal of the approx 4mm of glass IRC etc for the conversion.

Just a quick out of camera .jpg, processed in PSE11.

Col

 

post-31-0-21246600-1427605649.jpg

Panasonic Lumix G3, converted to full spectrum, with a f2.9 / 80mm lens, at ISO 200, f8 & 1/2 sec, with a Baader U2 filter in front.

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Lots of new processes to learn......

 

UV white balance is probably your logical next step. The G3 is known capable of good in-camera UV BadderU white balance, one of the reasons I chose the Panasonic. Rather easy to do once you figure out how it works and what the result is supposed to look like.

 

The WB button brings up the WHITE BALANCE options, select one of the custom WHITE SET 1 or 2 and hit the up button or touch the ^ WHITE SET box onscreen. You don't have to fill the entire frame with your WB target, just the outlined box. Then hit the SET button and that's it!

 

The trick of course is to use a good UV neutral (spectrally flat) WB target. A Spectralon or Fluorilon sintered PTFE diffuse reflectance standard is the gold standard. You don't need to spend extra for a calibrated reflectance standard.

 

A nice sheet of virgin PTFE is the next best thing. I have an ~11cm x 6.5cm x 2mm PTFE mounted inside my ColorChecker Passport. I also have rather good WB results with a PTFE lenscap I made. PTFE is used as a diffuser on detectors for UV-radiometers as the transmittance is also relatively neutral in the UV. Andrea tried one but it did not seem to work as well on her camera as it seems to on a G3.

 

Bjørn has mentioned using grey foam and concrete as field expedient WB targets.

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Getting reliable and reproducible UV neutral targets is an iterative process. A good starting point is the CC Passport which should anyway be a mandatory item. It has several patches that are near neutral (the fram itself or the black patch is a good starting point). Process according to this balance and look for readily available objects that look neutral. Use them for a new balance. Does the 'old' subject change? Refine the old setting from the point of the new one. I'm assuming you use Photoshop or similar so the process ends when any correction goes to zero.

 

Once you have come down to a stable set of target(s), use it for a direct in-camera w/b like John described earlier. I prefer finding the target first using the procedure described above. However, nothing prevents you from doing this in-camera from the onset, but you will lose full control over the adjustments.

 

Store the w/b setting as a preset on your camera. My Panasonics have 3 presets plus a 'live' one, so one can switch between 4 alternatives.

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Store the w/b setting as a preset on your camera. My Panasonics have 3 presets plus a 'live' one, so one can switch between 4 alternatives.

 

Bjørn,

 

I recall your saying this before but I cannot get that to work on my G3.

 

There are 9 WB settings; AWB, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Incandescent, Flash, White Set 1, White Set 2 and Color Temp. There are 4 Custom setings; C1, C2-1, C2-2, C2-3.

 

I can, for example, create a custom WB in White Set 2 and save that to a Custom setting C2-3. However if I then switch the camera into another mode, A for instance, and then change White Set 2 it also changes in Custom C2-3.

 

So, It appears in my hands the G3 C1 to C2-3 only saves a pointer to White Set 1 or 2 selection but not the actual custom White Set itself. The net result is I only seem to have the ability to save 2 custom White Set(s). It would please me to learn I have omitted a step that enables saving twice that many so I am still working on it!

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That shouldn't happen? Why would some Gs save customized WB in the C banks and others wouldn't?
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Product evolution, or product differentation. The makers do the most obscure things. Nothing specific to Panasonic, though. Idiosyncratic implementations are only too well known in the Nikon world.
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I've noticed that with my GH1, it is all too easy to think you are saving settings in the C banks by selecting

Custom
Mode
> C1 SET 1 > Set (Menu/Set)

 

when actually you have to select

Custom
Menu
> CUST. SET MEM. > C1 SET 1 > Set (Menu/Set) > Overwrite (YES) > Set (Menu/Set)

 

That Custom Mode choice appears when you have turned the top dial to Cust (or to C1 on the G3) and subsequently have pressed the Menu button. To actually save any changes, you have click left and scroll down to find the Custom Menu.

 

I don't know if this is what John did, of course. But I've sure done this a few times and then wondered why all my carefully chosen settings have disappeared. ;)

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Saying the menu system of these Panasonics is 'strange' is an understatement. More often than I care to think of, I have to bail out by switching the camera off and start all over again.

 

Somehow, my three presets C1-C3 seem to have survived and are readily applied. I struggle to activate them in video mode, though, but sometimes things go the way I want.

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I've noticed that with my GH1, it is all too easy to think you are saving settings in the C banks by selecting

Custom
Mode
> C1 SET 1 > Set (Menu/Set)

 

Yes, this is how one "selects" a custom mode setting. This menu option only appears when my dial is on C2, since there is only one C1 and it has it's own dial setting.

 

.....when actually you have to select

Custom
Menu
> CUST. SET MEM. > C1 SET 1 > Set (Menu/Set) > Overwrite (YES) > Set (Menu/Set)

 

This is how I saved my C2-3 custom WB. I also got the same result, WB not saved, on C1. I also do not get custom WB saved on another unmodified G3 as well as a G5.

 

These are less expensive DMC-G3 and DMC-G5 models. Do I recall correctly that you both (Andrea & Bjørn) have the higher level GH models? Perhaps this is the difference. I think Enrico has a DMC-G3, perhaps he can replicate my result.

 

I am also wondering if there is a firmware upgrade that may be the cause. I have never tried to download any firmware updates on any of these cameras.

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Try this experiment.

 

Start in M Mode - top dial turned to M.

 

In the usual way, make a custom white balance and save it in WB_1.

Then perform a CUST SET MEM to register the setting in C1.

Be sure YES is highlighted in Yellow (or whatev color your menu uses).

 

But before turning the dial to C1, while you are still in M mode, change the WB to Auto.

OK, now turn the dial to C1.

What WB is shown the custom WB1 or Auto?

 

*****

Suggesting this because it might make a difference where you start from.

 

*****

I have a GH1, he has a GH2. I don't have any idea whether these are higher or lower level than other G cams?

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The G2 has C1,C2,C3 (and one position on the dial) and the GH3 has C1,C2,C3-1,C3-2,C3-3 (3 positions on the dial).

I can set individual WBs on each Cx (G2: 2 sets, GH3: 3 sets, both plus the auto etc.) as Andrea describes the how to do.

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Thanks everybody, I am following this, CWB.

I just had a tooth extracted & it will take a couple of days to be able to concentrate on this, but I'll get there.

Col

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I have a GH1, he has a GH2. I don't have any idea whether these are higher or lower level than other G cams?

 

Actually, he (that is *me*) has two GH-2 cameras. One set up for UV video, the other used for UV botanicals.

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Col, well ouchie!! Take care of yourself. It will soon get better. We will still be here trying to figure it all out. ;)
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Try this experiment.

 

Start in M Mode - top dial turned to M.

 

In the usual way, make a custom white balance and save it in WB_1.

Then perform a CUST SET MEM to register the setting in C1.

Be sure YES is highlighted in Yellow (or whatev color your menu uses).

 

But before turning the dial to C1, while you are still in M mode, change the WB to Auto.

OK, now turn the dial to C1.

What WB is shown the custom WB1 or Auto?

 

*****

Suggesting this because it might make a difference where you start from.

 

I will try this and report results.

 

*****

I have a GH1, he has a GH2. I don't have any idea whether these are higher or lower level than other G cams?

 

I assumed they were at nearly 3x the price. I do know GH models are metal frame and weather sealed whereas G models are unsealed plastic.

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Thanks Andrea, yes it was an ouchie.

I have had four out before, but this one, I thought she was going to unscrew my head off my shoulders.....

Col

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A friendly warning: despite the GH models being metal frame, they do NOT stand much abuse in the field. I'm speaking from pitiful personal experience here. Even my humble and lowly Nikon D40X tolerates far more than a GH2, notwithstanding the price difference being firmly in the Panasonic's favour.
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To Wit: We had a Nikon body (D300 I think?) with mounted lens tumble out the back of the SUV onto the desert floor with no harm done during the Desert Wildflower Safari of 2012. But put a heavy lens like the UV-Nikkor on a G, set it a-tilt on top of the pile of camera gear, and there went the mount pulling away from the body.

 

So be very careful when a heavy lens is mounted on a G. Never lift a G by the body when such a lens is mounted. Get a hand under the lens first, OK?

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Try this experiment.

 

Start in M Mode - top dial turned to M.

 

In the usual way, make a custom white balance and save it in WB_1.

Then perform a CUST SET MEM to register the setting in C1.

Be sure YES is highlighted in Yellow (or whatev color your menu uses).

 

But before turning the dial to C1, while you are still in M mode, change the WB to Auto.

OK, now turn the dial to C1.

What WB is shown the custom WB1 or Auto?

 

Answer: WB1

 

However, if I then go into any other mode and make a different custom white balance in WB1 it overwrites the previous WB1 that was stored in C1.

 

I tried several permutations of where to start and any subsequent change in WB1or2 overwrites the saved WB1or2 in the saved Custom Modes.

 

Essentially the DMC-G3 only has 2 custom WB settings. Saving either of these to a Custom Mode (C1, C2-1, 2 or 3), only saves a pointer, or reference, to the active WB. Said another way, saving WB1 or WB2 to Custom Set does not save unique WB it only selects the indicated WB.

 

That is not what I understood was was described for the GH models.

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Correct. It is not. Apparently there is a difference in how these models operate then.

 

It appears so, I remain open to the possibility of operator error until another DMC-G3 user confirms or refutes.

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Well, darn. That's too bad. It is really nice to be able to save WB without getting them overwritten.

 

At least it is easy to set a WB with the G cams. So that's good.

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To Wit: We had a Nikon body (D300 I think?) with mounted lens tumble out the back of the SUV onto the desert floor with no harm done during the Desert Wildflower Safari of 2012. But put a heavy lens like the UV-Nikkor on a G, set it a-tilt on top of the pile of camera gear, and there went the mount pulling away from the body.

 

So be very careful when a heavy lens is mounted on a G. Never lift a G by the body when such a lens is mounted. Get a hand under the lens first, OK?

 

The camera in question was my D40X with the UV-Nikkor and this mishap occurred more than once during the trip. A SUV isn't as enjoyable as a transportable camera bag as my small red Peugeot apparently.

 

The GH-2 with the Coastal 60 mm f/4 APO lens was broken and had its lens mount pushed far into the camera framework after the first tumble. No good and most people would consider it a total write-off. However, my friend Erik Lund ('Dr. Lens') brought the camera back into working order later, but was shocked to learn the shoddy and delicate internal construction of the GH-2. He ended up literally *pulling* the frame straight and back into position using his mighty hands!! Then added a new screw by drilling into the frame, and finished by some shims until infinity focus was restored. I'm using the camera for UV video now.

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My D300 was also an escapee from the SUV. The UV-Planar was probably attached as I mostly used that lens on that trip. It tumbled halfway down a dusty ditch!
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Well, darn. That's too bad. It is really nice to be able to save WB without getting them overwritten.

 

At least it is easy to set a WB with the G cams. So that's good.

 

You can still save two and put them into a C1 or C2 dial setting. Any of the other non-custom WB sets could of course be saved in the others.

I usually only use two anyway so it is not so bad, but more would be good for switching lenses. Might not be a bad thing really, to force fresh WB!

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