nfoto Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Should be possible to purchase precision-made pinholes and zone plates online. Did that years ago when I used pinholes with large-format film. See www.pinholeresource.com for more details. They used to sell a very nice book on pinhole photography as well. However, by definition, with pinholes you trade an "infinite" depth of field with sharpness. Thus, in pinhole photography, nothing is sharp meaning really sharp, it's only degrees of unsharpness. That is why working with large formats made an illusion of sharpness easier to attain. For shorter wavelengths, the illusion of sharpness increases so deep UV will be less unsharp. But still not *sharp*. Link to comment
Andrea B. Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Bjørn, do you have a UV pinhole to show as an example? Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 I have done pinholes in ordinary light, with film, a long time ago now — I built one as a kid and developed my own film and so on. It was fun. I was most curious about zone plates, actually, because I haven't tried them yet. Link to comment
Andrea B. Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Enrico, thank you for the reference to the Zeiss Luminar 63/4.5. That's nice to know. I've added it to the list for placing into the Lens Sticky. Link to comment
lost cat Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Enrico, thank you for the reference to the Zeiss Luminar 63/4.5. That's nice to know. I've added it to the list for placing into the Lens Sticky. I'm curious, how many lenses are on that list so far? Link to comment
Andrea B. Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Can't say as I've ever counted them ! :D Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 All right, I am now the proud owner of a Novoflex [Noflexar]. Thanks to all who contributed. This discussion has been educational. I do suspect I could have saved money by going the helicoid route, but this lens seems very well suited to my projected needs.-Edit for additional precision. Link to comment
Andrea B. Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Andy, we all wish you well with the Noflexar and will enjoy seeing your first posts with your new UV set-up. BTW, this little hobby of ours is appealing and so you might eventually find yourself the owner of more than one UV-capable lens. Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 *sad wave to disposable income as it flies into the distance* Link to comment
lost cat Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Andy, we all wish you well with the Noflexar and will enjoy seeing your first posts with your new UV set-up. BTW, this little hobby of ours is appealing and so you might eventually find yourself the owner of more than one UV-capable lens. Yep. Link to comment
nfoto Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 To be nitpicking Andy: you own a Noflexar lens made by the German company Novoflex. Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 Yes, this is clear to me, but I'll try to be more precise next time. Link to comment
Andrea B. Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I wonder if Novoflex makes anything similar these days? I haven't looked at their website for ages. Link to comment
JCDowdy Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 They made bellows lenses in several focal lengths about the same or earlier vintage. I have tried a 105mm and 135mm which seem to have a lot of color fringing in UV. I have not tired a 60mm and there are several versions of it. Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 I think I saw the 105mm here? Can color fringing be taken care of with shooting at higher F-number? (Yes, that is a newbie question.) Link to comment
JCDowdy Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I am not recommending either lens but yes that is the 105mm model. That one looks rather nasty and costs more than 2x what I paid. I was mostly just interested to know if anyone had ever tried one of the 60mm versions. Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 That one looks rather nasty and costs more than 2x what I paid.Yes, that seems to be today's theme. Link to comment
JCDowdy Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Yes, after being disappointed with the 105 & 135 I was reluctant to try a 60mm and undecided as to which one.If I were to try one it would likely be an older Staeble Novoflex like this one. The widely regarded 35/3.5 is supposed to be a Staeble or so I have read. Link to comment
nfoto Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 John, I have several of these 60/4.5 up for sale ... Did a little lens cleaning and found various superfluous lenses. PM me if interested. Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Playing with a Steinheil Munchen EDIXA-Auto-Cassaron 2.8/50mm, which I plan to return. But I had a question. What does this switch on the side do? Link to comment
colinbm Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Manual to Automatic aperture. Link to comment
OlDoinyo Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 The lever may be to enable/disable the pin-actuated diaphragm (a common feature of older SLR lenses when lenses were all-mechanical and there were no onboard motors.) Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Thanks, OlDoinyo.Colinbm, it can't be Manual to Automatic. This lens is purely mechanical. Link to comment
Andrea B. Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Well what does the lens do when you move the switch? Why are you returning the lens? Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 The switch does nothing at all (that I can detect!) when I move the switch. Very mysterious. Although I like OlDoinyo's suggestion that it might be part of a pin-actuated diaphragm, because if the other part of the mechanism on the camera side is missing here, that would explain why it doesn't do anything. I'm returning it mainly because I don't need it, and I have a finite amount of money. This is one I picked out before joining the forum and deciding on the Novoflex Noflexar. Link to comment
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