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This is a UV fluorescence image of Celeriac - Apium graveolens var. rapaceum (not my favourite vegetable!) just for fun really. Nice colours and pattern in the cut flesh! Technical details: Both images Nikon Z7 with 105mm micro Nikkor lens. UVF image light painted with NEMO torch (365nm) for 10 seconds at f/22

We found this Grapefruit (Citrus × aurantium f. aurantium) at the bottom of the fruit bowl, just starting to become soft and inedible. It made a great subject for UVF! Technical details: UVF: Nikon Z7II with 105mm micro Nikkor lens. Memo 365nm torch, light painted: 10 seconds at f/22

Simply put do UV cameras, or cameras that operate with only UV light, pick up dyes that are florescent even with out a black light to expose them? The dyes I'm talking about are common with 'invisible inks'( google image search for reference), but are also used for tattoos (reference), and even some hair dyes (reference). The best example of what I hope to achieve is this Wikipedia photo that shows two photographs of a man with sunscreen one normal the other UV. As anyone tried something similar but with those kinds of invisible inks mentioned above?

Grabbed some pistachios after work and decided to try UVIIF. I was kind of tired and things didn't go as well as expected. First mistake was using stock Pentax 645z. Hey, it works great for UVIVF, so why not here? Because it takes a very long exposure to force enough IR thru the stock sensor filter. Will use full spectrum camera next time. There are other questions. 1. Using Nemo torch or Adaptalux UV arms Is it enough to use a 25 red or Hoya 72 filter on the camera lens? Or is the Tiffen Haze 2E also needed to block UV? 2. Does my custom IR landscape white balance work here? This isn't vital since I shoot Raw, but nice to get in the ballpark. Thanks, Doug A

While shooting a cucumber in UVIVF, I forgot to add the Kolari hot mirror filter. The Tiffen Haze 2E took care of the UV. Cucumbers fluoresce in both visible and IR. So what would the proper designation be? Thanks, Doug A

I was following up on the unexpected difference in UVR between a social wasp (Vespula sp) and a hoverfly (Episyrphus balteatus) in this thread: https://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php?/topic/5873-uvr-batesian-mimicry-of-social-wasp-vespula-sp-by-hoverfly-episyrphus-balteatus/ The UVR result was confirmed with these dead insects (window sill casuaties) including a European hornet (Vespa crabro). Centre item is a plastic model. The UVF result was totally unexpected (or I might have taken more trouble with cleaning!). Anyone seen this before? Tech: Vis: - Nikon D5500 Nikon 105mm 2.8D. Light source: 3x IKEA LED UVR - Nikon D3200 FS with Nikon 105mm 2.8D, Baader U. Light source Alonefire 365nm torch UVF - Nikon D5500 Nikon 105mm 2.8D. Hoya UV/IR block. Light source Alonefire 365nm torch Post processing: minimal colour balancing and tone levels; nothing special. Background is 'virgin' PTFE sheet; scale is a steel ruler; units cm/mm (is deep blue in UVF likely UV leakage or UVF from maybe lacquer?) Vis: UVR: UVIVF:

Hi friends Sorry I havent posted much lately. Ive been doing some caving and of course I take a UV lamp for extra fun. I dont carry a tripod though so the quality is not that great. Most calcite/ gypsum glow bluish but some glow orange. Also they phosforesce in green wich is super fun. IMPORTANT: No formations were harvested or broken, thats 1) illegal and 2) awful thing to do. Helictites Broken stalactite Soda straws and "bulbs" Another broken stalactite.

I spent some time yesterday taking many images of this unremarkable piece of plastic fantastic. I got these on a flea market the other day, thinking they were cool, but given that they're made from pretty cheap plastic, I might have changed my mind on that over time. Regardless, it was interesting "investigate" them. First thing I did was an IR tri color, using the GRB3 method I discovered recently. Very underwhelming, but expected. Next thing I did was I illuminated the glasses with three different IR filtered LED lightsources, a green one, a blue one and a 395nm one, I recorded the fluorescence in IR for each using my 850nm longpass filter and made a tri color image out of them afterwards. Lastly, I opened up the lens all the way to f/1.4, since I knew I would need a lot of light. I mounted the blue spotlight I was using beforehand and I did an IR tri color of the IR fluorescence under blue. I'm not exactly sure if I learned anything from this, besides maybe the fact that the orange shot glass really likes to fluoresce, but it was interesting, still. I would like to investigate more objects this way later.

Yesterday I spent the evening taking pictures of my funky fluorescent glass collection so that I could discuss with some hobbyists online what sort of glass they are and who made them. I figured that it technically fits in this forum since it's UVIVF so I thought I should post the images. I actually took them with my Sony DSC-F828 initially, I think the retro color rendering is fun, then I had to bring out the Canon 77D because it can actually represent the colors accurately and objectively. I illuminated them with a ZWB2 filtered 365nm LED (which apparently you shouldn't do either since 395nm is the standard in the fluorescent glass community). The green ones are most likely uranium, the more yellow ones are so called vaseline glass, which is also uranium but different shade. The pink/amber/yellow ones are probably selenium and cadmium glass, or some combination of the two. Bonus image, as I said, I later took more images with a 77D, also used a 395nm light this time. I took one of the raw files, color balanced it and then enhanced the colors to highlight the differences between individual shades.

The fluorescence was very weak. I had to use ISO 800 with a 30s exposure to achieve this photo. I also had a relatively strong UV LED chip's entire output focused directly onto the banana (using the built in "zoom" feature of the torch).

Continuing my studies in edible things, I decided to take pictures of some apples. visible reference infrared 850nm LED UV induced infrared fluorescence (850nm longpass, 365nm LED) UV (illuminated with 365nm LED)

Surprised when I shinned a UV light in a bowl of pistachios and easily saw the ones out of the shell. I decided to check them with some different lights. Camera used was a Canon 77D Full Spectrum. Lens is the EL Nikkor 80mm metal version. WB was done on grey plumbers tape. Here's the visible. Filter is a Hoya uv/ir cut, Light is the cfl I have in the room. iso100, 1.6sec f8 UVIVF. Filter is an astro 1.25in uv/ir cut (different from above because of sharpness for some reason) Light is the 365nm UV Beast v3. iso200, .13sec f8 UVIIRF. Filters are Hoya R72 and a 950nm from amazon. Light is the UV Beast v3 also. iso400, 13sec. f8 UV. Filter is the Baader U, light, UV Beast v3, iso100, .6sec, f11 I used DXO and darktable(better WB capabilities)

Screen grab from a document I'm putting together. Images are looking directly downward onto the cream / mould surface. This is one of those at-the-back-of the-fridge finds. This is a part used pot of cream - strictly crème fraîche, soured cream - that was a few months old. The images were made with in darkness with a vertically mounted Nikon D750 with Nikon 105mm 2.8D micro lens and no filtration. Visible light image lit by a couple of 'macro-flashes'. The UVF image was illumated with a pair of full spectrum modified Vivitar 285HV flashes with 2x ZWB1 2.5mm filters. Still a slight red reflection from them, I think. The visible light blueish, furry, areas clearly fluoresce green with maybe cyan. The white to orange central area is purple in UVF. Does anyone have any experience with moulds and their fluoresence and my be suggest an identification. Since this was from a fridge that is used for cheese including occasional blue types I wondered about Penicillium sp of for the blue/green areas. Could that mould also present as white / purple areas? My main surprise was that the cream itself is, well, cream coloured in UVF. The only illumination was the filtered flash so I suppose it must be a fluorescnce of some sort? At the risk of being sectioned by my wife, I've taken various dairy items into the dark and waved the UV torch at them. They all look more or less like the do in visible light - white to shades of yellow. I didn't find much literature - maybe lactose or casein etc give this effect?

A little brag, because all of you helped me learn how to do these things... my UVIVF shot of Lemon Beebalm (Monarda citriodora) aka Horsemint won a photography blue ribbon at the annual meeting of the Texas Master Naturalists last fall. I was shocked, as there were several hundred entries by fiercely competitive folks who love flowers... :-). Lemon Beebalm is a common prairie plant in the US, giving the land swaths of vibrant pink, beloved of bees... Many thanks to you all.. you have a share of the blue ribbon for "Darkest Beebalm"! There was no external lighting for this, just a Convoy UV flashlight paint in complete dark. Olympus EM1mk2, Olympus 30mm macro lens, 640 ISO, f/11, 30 sec.

Hi all. I am trying to figure out the best lighting solution for UVIVF photography involving small reptiles. In my testing, I managed to capture some neat fluorescence in a chameleon illuminated using a Lightfe UV301D torch. This torch has a "black filter lens" but I have no idea what material it is and as you can see in the attached image there is plenty of blue so it probably isn't a very good filter. The picture was taken at ISO400, F20, and a 1 second shutter speed. Now 1 second is fine for a slow moving and relatively calm lizard like a chameleon but for other critters I am gonna have a tough time trying to make them sit still for a long exposure. I was thinking that a modified UV flash might be better because it might be able to "freeze" motion like a regular flash would? But I have no idea about the differences in exposure times between using a flash and using a torch. Secondly, would one fire of from a UV flash produce enough UV light? I am assuming a flash is more powerful than a torch. Would it be better to go for a modified flash, either premade like the Kolari Vision multispectral flash or DIY with a yongnuo or godox and some filters, or would it be better to get a powerful torch like a Convoy or Nemo with filters. There's also things like the Adaptalux UV but I don't know if those are powerful enough for animals bigger than insects. Any advice and recommendations would be appreciated. On an unrelated note, does anyone know if Uviroptics is still available as a source of filters? Their page is empty on ebay.

This is a nice poster from the www.compoundchem.com. The poster is being used under Createive-Commons license with no changes and with attribution. And of course we are a non-commercial website. No details here about what wavelength of UV induces the protoporphyrin IX fluorescence. And only the most basic explanation of fluorescence. But still cool with that fluorescing red egg.

[UV SAFETY] UV-C Light Is Dangerous NEVER look at a UV-C light. NEVER let UV-C light hit your skin or eyes directly or by reflection. UV-C light can cause: severe burns of the eyes and the skin, and DNA damage from broken chromosomes. When working with UV-C illumination, you MUST: cover up completely, wear head & eye protection, and have strong ventilation. UVIVF, UltraViolet Induced Visible Fluorescence, with many UVA, UVB, UVC, LED lights & Far UVC Excimer lights. I now have a collection of UV LED lights, 365nm, 340nm, 310nm, 395nm, 375nm, 365nm, 255nm & 222nm Excimer Far UVC lights. I have been developing my Macro set-up & light stands. These are taken with an unconverted Sigma fp camera with a Sigma 70mm macro lens. The rock/mineral sample is one in my collection from the Puttapa Zinc Mine, South Australia, & contains willemite, calcite & smithsonite, plus others. I have tried to process these all in a simple & similar way. I have adjusted the shutter speed & aperture to maximise the dynamic range in the histogram to fill it from left to right. Processing has been minimal to white balance on the black cap the rock is sitting on & sharpened in Topaz Sharpen AI. First in Visible Light 400nm - 700nm. Far UVC 222nm Excimer Light, Induced Visible Fluorescence, safer to use. Protect eyes, face & all skin. UVC 255nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. UVC 265nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. UVC 275nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. UVB 295nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. UVB 310nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. UVA 340nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. UVA 365nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed.

Been in Tasmania for January, enjoying the landscape and wildlife. While in the North West we stopped at a place called Green Point to go to the beach. Across most of Tasmania on the rocks is an orange lichen, so I got a sample from the rock (no hammers, the constant wave damage had provided some samples). This was about 3 cm across. The rock there is old, very old - about 1 billion years old. Images are of the front and back of the sample, in visible light (sunlight, auto white balance), and 365nm UV induced fluorescence using a nemo torch (daylight white balance). Images just captured as jpg in the camera (Eos R7) and size reduced for sharing here. Front side of the rock. Back side of the rock. The lichen fluoresces with a bright orange colour. The rock is mainly not strongly colour under UV, but some areas show a yellow colour. Location of the beach (just to the west of Green Point campground).

Well I merged two things I love. The light is a UVBeast mini (365nm, filtered). The camera is an olympus TG5 ( waterproof). Kept exposures to critters quick and observed for any behaviour changes. Some things I observed: - Fish did not react ( or fluoresce) to the UV but were annoyed at my (visible) headlamp. - Starfish did not fluoresce. - Crabs seemed to react to the UV more than to my headlamp so I avoided them. Ive read about deep sea crabs seing UV but I think shore crabs might do too. - Annemones not sure. Some seemed to be slightly bothered about my proximity. They didnt react aggressively (these anemones are super territorial and will fight eachother) or differently to UV and I think ive seen them in black light in the aquarium. But I kept it short just in case. They glow green AND RED but my camera barely picked up the red sadly. - Limpets, mussels, shrimp, algae, chitons and more are a feast to the eyes of oranges, reds and pinks and blues. - Shrimp and sea urchins didnt mind me in visible or UV and were very active at night. Edit to upload at higher resolution @Andy Perrin

This is the Kiwano fruit (Cucumis metuliferus), a new one for me, found in a street market in north London. Not sure if the UVF shows anything useful, but nice colours! Technical details UVF: Nikon D850 with 105mm micro Nikon lens. light painted with 365nm NEMO torch. 10 seconds @ f/22

I have on several occasions over the last few years posted examples of fluorescing mould on Satsuma oranges. This is one of the best examples I have found, with virtually no visible sign of mould. The only thing I found was when I went to pick it up - it was very Squidgy (technical term!). Technical: Nikon D850 with 105mm micro Nikon. UVF: light painted with NEMO torch: 5 seconds at f/22.

Adaptalux is offering a new unit on Kickstarter. It uses the same lighting arms as their studio unit. One of the packages has 365nm UV arms for UVIVF. I love my Nemo lights, but the Adaptalux would be so much easier to position. I'll probably pledge for a set. Thanks, Doug A

This is the mushroom/toadstool Sulphur Tuft (Hypholoma fasciculare). Very common in the UK, often growing in large clumps. I have been looking at many fungi this autumn with a UV source, and this is the only one I have found to exhibit true fluorescence. It is very bright (see exposure details). Technical: Nikon D850 with 105mm UV Nikkor. UV image 1 second @ f/32, 200 ISO. Light painted with NEMO torch.

[UV SAFETY] UV-C Light Is Dangerous NEVER look at a UV-C light. NEVER let UV-C light hit your skin or eyes directly or by reflection. UV-C light can cause: severe burns of the eyes and the skin, and DNA damage from broken chromosomes. When working with UV-C illumination, you MUST: cover up completely, wear head & eye protection, and have strong ventilation. Fluorescent Minerals is like a Box of Chocolates, You never know what you are going to get ! Sodalite is a popular mineral with the Fluorescent Mineral collectors as it displays well under Black Light. Here is some Sodalite in Eight UV wavelengths from Far UVC 222nm to 365nm & one in Visible light. Sodalite in Visible Light 400nm - 700nm. Sodalite in Far UVC 222nm Excimer Light, Induced Visible Fluorescence, safer to use. Protect eyes, face & all skin. Sodalite in UVC 255nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. Sodalite in UVC 265nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. Sodalite in UVC 275nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. Sodalite in UVB 295nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. Sodalite in UVB 310nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Protect eyes, face & all skin. Sodalite in UVA 340nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed. Sodalite in UVA 365nm LED, Induced Visible Fluorescence, knowledge of the safe handling this light is needed.

Just bought an UV torch from Amazon and tested it last night in our very small back garden and noticed something is glowing. When I checked I saw this little snail there :) Photo was shot on an Olympus OM-D EM-1 MkIII with a Zuiko 45mm f1.2 and a Raynox DCR-250 with an Alonefire SV47 torch as the light source.