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Hello UVP, I'm wondering if the lights are emitting UV or is this visible light leaking into my UV camera setup?

Hello UVP, Testing a UV camera under natural sunlight. Can someone please recommend a potted plant to can buy now (December) in the Pacific North West to test? Something I can move around and it will be obvious that the camera is picking up reflected UV light from the flower. Called around and sunflowers are not available. Also open to other recommendations too besides potted plants. Thank you Valentin Siderskiy P.S. It works indoors with a UV flashlight.

I don't know how many people could be interested in this, but I recently discovered Luminus makes IR LEDs which are very powerful and very small, which means you can collimate them to have intense and tight beams, or do other interesting things (yes, they can burn stuff, and probably your eyes too). This is one of them. λpeak: 950 nm; Output power: 13 W; Emitting area: 10.24 mm2; This means that the irradiance on the surface of the LED is ~127 W/cm2. That's about 10 times the value I can achieve with my 365 nm LED, which can already char paper and burn wood, and about 1/50 of the irradiance (full-spectrum) on the surface of the Sun. That's no joke, you don't want that in your eyes. I think you should never look into an LED this intense, and you should treat it like you would treat a laser pointer. Quote from the datasheet: "Caution must be taken not to stare at the light emitted from these LEDs. Under special circumstances, the high intensity could damage the eye." Other LEDs: https://www.luminus.com/products/ir I have no affiliation with Luminus.

Anybody out there who does some Wikipedia work? The Blacklight page needs a big update for the LED section. There is exactly *one* sentence and that is inaccurate as you will note. Ultraviolet light can be generated by some light-emitting diodes, but wavelengths below 380 nm are uncommon and the emission peaks are broad, so only the very lowest energy UV photons are emitted, within predominant not visible light. Currently I don't have time to update this myself.

Inspired by Bernard's excellent work, I wanted to try full color/tri-color IR too. I didn't use three separate filters, but three separate light sources. More below. I have a wide range of IR LEDs, currently seven between 730 and 1050 nm, but only three of them are usable as of now, since I didn't attach the others to a heatsink yet, and thus they would overheat. Those three LEDs are the most common IR LEDs you can find online, emitting at 730, 850 and 940 nm. Their peaks are roughly evenly spaced, and thus they are suitable for tri-color photography (one can use any combination he/she likes, but evenly spaced filters/light sources are better in my opinion). The LEDs are the "10 W" type, with 9 chips in a 3S3P configuration and a maximum rated forward current of 900 mA. They probably emit 1-3 W of light, not more. I may one day write a topic about my LEDs in detail. I ran all of them at full power. The target was water. People who read my posts for a while know that I like seeing the absorption of water in the near-infrared spectrum (possibly, one day, even in SWIR), and since I know that water appears noticeably darker at 940 nm by experience I wanted to combine three images to make it appear blue. I used my full-spectrum Panasonic DMC-F3, an Hoya R72 filter to prevent any possible (but unlikely) contamination by visible light, and to prevent movements between the images I mounted the camera on a tripod which I attached to the floor with bi-adhesive tape. Since I didn't care about colors in the single images, and I would have needed to convert them to B&W anyway, I directly shot them in B&W in-camera. To have uniform exposures between the images I put the camera on auto ISO mode, and it worked very well. I put a paper tissue in the background to have a white target. Normal copy paper would have worked as well. The water thickness was 28 mm, and the LEDs were ~50 cm (~20 in) from the container. I mapped 730 nm as blue, 850 nm as green and 940 nm as red. Images settings were f/2.8 for all images, and 1/30 s ISO 80 for 730 nm; 1/30 s ISO 100 for 850 nm; 1/8 s ISO 320 for 940 nm. Combined final image (just the three channels stacked, no white balancing, no alignment, no post-processing): Increased saturation: Any suggestion is welcome.

The new version of the Convoy S2+ with newer 365nm UV Nichia LED. This seems to be slightly brighter, I will test that with my meter to be more exact later. The new version has a newer Nichia LED, Part No. NCSU276C N. Nichia UV LED info page: https://www.nichia.c...duct/uvled.html I got mine at Gearbest. Cost is the same as the older one was. Here are some specifications of the old and new LED, and graphs of the old and new LED which look the same. This is a good improvement. I have not compared the actual brightness with my meter yet, and I have not tested temperature build up difference. I didn't notice anything else to be different. Convoy S2+ Nichia 365nm UV LED (older) Part No. NCSU276A U365 Size: LxWxH(mm) 3.5x3.5x2.0 Peak Spectrum λp (nm): 365 Optical Power Typ (mW): 780 Forward Voltage VF(V): 3.8 (Typ) - 4.4 (Max) Directivity 2θ ½ (degree): 130 IF(mA): 500 Convoy S2+ Nichia 365nm UV LED (newer) Part No. NCSU276C N Peak Wavelength λp Typ.(nm) 365 Radiant Flux ΦE Typ.(mW) 1,050 Forward Voltage VF Typ.(V) 3.8 Max.(V) 4.4 Directivity 2θ ½ Typ.(degree) 120 IF (mA) 500 Size LxWxH (mm) 3.5x3.5x2.0 Older NCSU276A U365 LED graph. Newer NCSU276C N LED graph.

Hi, Anyone used this https://www.ebay.com...ar=553534053580 I'm thinking of putting a ZWB2 filter in front of it Will it work? Stay Strong - Stay Safe All the best from Norway Harald

Finally, a successful UV art portrait lens! I attached a ~1930's Emil Busch Neokino 120mm f2.1 petzval-design cinema projection lens to a M65 helicoid with a 62.5mm to M65 RafCamera adapter, and mounted it to a full-spectrum 5Dmk2. I drilled a hole into a Pentacon Six lens backcap that happened to snap onto the front of the lens, and superglued a 62-to-77mm step-up ring (maybe 58mm? forgot), creating a filter holder. I stacked a 77mm UG-11 and S8612 for ultraviolet. As highlighted in previous posts, this lens has phenomenal UV performance, despite being a fast telephoto. The petzval design gives beautiful bokeh and glowing highlights, although the dated optics don't give the sharpest image in town. Since the goal was art, not technical perfection, I wasn't too bothered by this. Model: James Gray. You might notice in some of the waterside photos he has a strange dark ring over his left eye. I puzzled over this for a while before figuring it out. I was wearing sunblock on the day, but he wasn't. When he looked through my LCD magnifier to see some of the images, he inadvertently acquired the sunblock that had rubbed off my face onto the eyepiece. Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Ultraviolet, Neokino 120mm f2.1 with UG-11 + S8612 Visible, Mitakon 85mm f1.2 Infrared + visible, medium-format Pentacon Six Biometar 80mm f2.8 with tilt-shift adapter Infrared (720nm), 140mm f1.8 soviet projection lens Visible, 50mm f1.2 soviet projection lens Infrared (850nm), 140mm f1.8 soviet projection lens Visible, Helios 40 (85mm f1.5) Infrared + visible, 140mm f1.8 soviet projection lens Infrared + visible, Mitakon 85mm f1.2 Visible, 50mm f1.2 soviet projection lens Infrared (850nm), 140mm f1.8 soviet projection lens Infrared + visible, Arsat 30mm medium-format fisheye lens on tilt-shift adapter

I recently purchased the following light from Amazon for $30: Lucky herb Reptile UVA UVB Mercury Vapor Bulb Lamp,Screw Thread,125 Watt It has clear front glass and is a self ballast mercury vapour lamp. You can screw it into a standard light fixture. It gets quite hot infront and I would not recommend it for people. Using it at a range of 2 feet from the subject, I was getting great exposure value using my 313bp25 and 340bp10 filters. It does output IR, but this can easily be monitored. With my recent converted Em1 for middle histogram and the 313bp25 filter stacked with the 330WB80 improved filter, I had exposure of 3200 ISO, f5.6 and 10 seconds. With the 340bp10 filter stacked with the Baader venus, I had exposure value 3200 ISO, f5.6 and 2 secons for a middle histogram. These stacks completely eliminate IR leakage. However, when trying to get a white balance for 10 seconds, I wasn't wearing gloves and my thumb did get a tan. So this light should be used with googles and gloves! I am pasty white so your tanning milage will vary.

Experimental Work http://www.ultraviol...-light-sources/ 15 February 2018 I carried out a learning exercise by illuminating a cultivated pink flannel flower (Actinotus forsythia) with a modified flash, sunlight and an UV torch. The images were processed using Lightroom 6 by following identical workflow except exposure adjustments. The photographs were taken by attaching the lens to a Nikon PB-4 bellows at its maximum extension of 190mm to fill the frame with the flower which corresponds to magnification value of 0.65±0.02. Further magnification data for this assembly can be found at: https://www.flickr.c.../in/dateposted/ .The bellow & lens assembly was fully wrapped with a thick black fabric to eliminate any leakage of light. This issue had been addressed previously in web literature and it was also confirmed experimentally by me. An Australian stingless bee, Tetragonula carbonaria (approximately 4mm long) is seen in the ultraviolet image taken by the flash. Ultraviolet Light:Nikon D3200 Full spectrum modified, EL-Nikkor 150mm 1:2.8 metal body lens + Baader UV-Pass Filter 2”, Canon 199A modified flash, f/11 for 1.3" @ ISO 100. Image Reference: ES1616-3 Ultraviolet Light: Nikon D3200 Full spectrum modified, EL-Nikkor 150mm 1:2.8 metal body lens + Baader UV-Pass Filter 2”, Bright sunlight, f/11 for 1.3" @ ISO 1600. Image Reference: ES1627-2 Ultraviolet Light: Nikon D3200 Full spectrum modified, EL-Nikkor 150mm 1:2.8 metal body lens + Baader UV-Pass Filter 2”, Nichia NVSU233A diode torch, f/11 for 1.6" @ ISO 100. Image Reference: ES1633-3 Published 15 February 2018

Good evening, During the last 3 months, I have realized a new photographic project in infrared based on the use of a 850nm flash. This way, I shot people on the Parisian subway like if this place was totally dark. Thought as a succession of scenes of life in the darkness, this project presents dark and undefined environments where circulate human beings absorbed by their daily lives. The main purpose of this series is the illustration of an imperceptible underground life, where the artificial light of the urban environment is absent. Only the photographer's flash reveals the scenes unfolding in front of him, giving a claustrophobic and worrying character to the moments captured. In the subway, a parallel can be made between the subjects going to work and miners moving in dark underground hoses with no visible purpose. The attitudes of the characters alternate between moving in endless corridors, searching for invisible routes or using stairs leading to unknown levels. Here are 5 pictures of this project:

Good afternoon! I have finally achieved a good portrait with studio strobe : here the Broncolor Pulso G 3200J. I was so surprised by the UV power delivered that the final RAW was overexposed... Gear : Canon 6D FS + Nikon EL 105mm + Kolari UV filter EXIF : 105mm, F/5.6, 1600iso, 1/100s. I am pretty sure I could have reached F/8 and 800iso in this configuration. The focus is not perfect, but for the first test I am happy with this result. I will do better the next time .

A recent article form Kopp Glass arrived in my inbox today, 21Mar16, some may find interesting. Current State of UV LED Technology

Last Edit [22 July 2021: Added links to other pinned UV Safety topics.] Limitation of Liability: UltravioletPhotography.com The material on UltravioletPhotography.com (UVP) may contain inaccuracies and typographical or other errors. UVP makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness, or timeliness of the material or about the results to be obtained from using the website and/or the material therein. Use of the website and any information contained therein is at your own risk. The material and other content on this website may or may not be periodically updated or revised at any time. These Terms and Conditions of Use shall apply with equal force to any and all such updates or revisions. Your use of any ultraviolet outputting lamp, bulb, flash, LED light or other device is at your own risk. See also: [uV SAFETY] UV-C Light Dangers [uV SAFETY] Xenon Strobe and UV-Flash Safety Hints My main reference from Columbia University is no longer available as of 22 July 2021. However I will let the topic stand because the UV exposure limits are similar to what is found in other sources. Example: https://orm.uottawa.ca/my-safety/em-radiation/uv/exposure-limits UV Eye Damage Question: I would like to photograph someone with their eyes open. It is widely warned that you should not look directly into a UV-flash or UV-LED, however, what if you did? Answer: You might sustain burns or other injuries to the eyes. So please do NOT directly look at a UV-flash or UV-LED or any other source of UV light. UV-blocking eye protection in the form of UV-blocking goggles or face masks is mandatory when using any UV outputting lamp, bulb, flash, LED light or other device. This includes those UV blacklight party lights, also used for fluorescent posters. No one can tell you how many UV-flashes, for example, are "too many" for human eyes because those experiments are not done on human subjects. So, the simple answer is do not flash or shine any UV light into anyone's eyes or expose your own eyes to any source of UV light of any kind. Here is what could potentially happen short-term and long-term. Short term exposure to intense UV causes ultraviolet keratitis, a photochemical injury to the cornea of the eye. Welders call this welder's eye and skiers call it snowblindness. In mild cases, you feel dry, scratchy eyes, some eye pain, sensitivity to light and have reduced vision for a few hours because your cornea is swollen and inflamed. This injury is often referred to as a flash burn or a corneal burn, but it is not thermal in nature even though it feels like it. In severe cases of UV keratitis, there can be corneal ulceration and possible infection. Severe corneal damage might eventually necessitate a corneal transplant (taken from a cadaver). See also: Ultraviolet Keratitis This is a medical monograph by Reed Brozen, MD at Dartmouth Medical School, Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center, Vermont. Corneal Flash Burns Long term exposure to UV from sunlight or other sources causes cumulative damage to the human eye which typically manifests itself as the formation of cataracts. A cataract is a cloudy deposit on or within the eye lens. It is said that sooner or later we all get cataracts. This is why ophthamologists encourage everyone to wear UV-blocking sunglasses when outdoors. Long term exposure to UV in sunlight or from other sources can also cause retinal damage or eye cancers. These links about cataracts and UV are from the US National Institute of Health: Facts about Cataract New research sheds light on how UV rays may contribute to cataract Sources of UV Light Halogen lights, carbon arcs, welding arcs, sunlight, sunlight reflected on snow, sunlight reflected on water, UV-flashes, photo floodlights, sun lamps, tanning beds, UV-LED torches/flashlights, UV-C sanitation devices, UV lamps, UV fluorescent tubes. UV Exposure Recommendations The Columbia University (New York City) monograph Working Safely with Ultraviolet Radiation contains some UV exposure recommendations listed below. Columbia University also notes that in the United States there is no Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) standard for exposure to ultraviolet light. (OSHA is a federal agency in the US Department of Labor which enforces safety & health laws.) However, the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), part of the US Center for Disease Control and Prevention, does make some recommendations. Also, the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) has issued Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) for occupational exposure to UV. I have to review notation here so I can keep it straight. watts = W milliwatts = mW microwatts = µW 1W = 103mW = 106µw meters = m centimeters = cm 1m2 = 104cm2 Columbia University Recommendation for UV-A Exposure in Wavelength Range 315-400 nm 10 Watts/m2 for every 1000 seconds. In words, the maximum time for unprotected exposure of skin/eyes to a UV-A irradiance intensity of 10 Watts per square meter should not exceed 1000 seconds. ACGIH Recommendation for UV-A Exposure in Wavelength Range 315-400 nm 1 milliWatt/cm2 for every 1000 seconds In words, the maximum time for unprotected exposure of skin/eyes to a UV-A irradiance intensity of 1 milliWatt per square centimeter should not exceed 1000 seconds. This is (obviously) the same as the preceding Columbia recommendation. 10 Watts/m2 = 1 milliWatt/cm2 1 milliWatt/cm2 for 1000sec == 1000 milliWats/cm2 for 1 second. Thank you, Metric System. Columbia Recommendation for UV-B Exposure in Wavelength Range 200 - 315 nm It appears to me that this range includes some UV-C, yes? The radiant exposure on unprotected eyes and skin within any 8 hour period is limited to values which depend on the wavelength of the radiation. For a broadband source the effective irradiance should be measured or calculated, and the maximum permissible exposure determined from the table below. LEFT: Effective Irradiance (Watts/m2) RIGHT: Maximum Permissible Exposure during an 8 hour period 0.001 8 hours 0.008 1 hour 0.05 10 minutes 0.5 1 minute 3 1 second 30 0.1 second NIOSH Recommendation for UV-C Exposure at Wavelength 254 nm Note that 254 nm is the typical wavelength for UV-C sanitation lights. 100 μW/cm2 for 1 minute In words, the maximum time for unprotected UV-C exposure of skin/eyes to an intensity of 100 microWatts per square centimeter should not exceed 1 minute. When averaged over an eight-hour work day, this value is 0.2 microWatts per square centimeter. Convert: 100 microWatts/cm2 = 0.1 milliWatts/cm2 for 1 minute. Convert: 6 milliWatts/cm2 for 1 second. Obviously, the greater the intensity of the UV-C light source, the shorter the time you are allowed for unprotected exposure. In case this is not hitting home with you, the NIOSH recommendation is telling you that 254 nm UV-C light is extremely dangerous !!! Side Note: There is one incomplete statement in this Columbia U. reference. They say eye damage is from UV-B and UV-C, but it has been recently learned that eye damage also occurs due to oxidative stress from UV-A. See Ultraviolet Keratitis link above. Example: Blak-Ray B-100 AP Lamp From the manufacturer's data, we have that the Blak-Ray B-100 AP lamp with a UV-A range peaking around 365 nm delivers an intensity of 21.7 milliWatts/cm² at 5 cm (about 2 inches) and 8.9 milliWatts/cm² at 25 cm (about 10 inches) distance from the lamp. Various factors affect the actual intensity from such a lamp because of geometry, angles of use, ambient reflections and so on. Nevertheless, we will use those numbers in the following model as a worst-case intensity from a Blak-Ray directly shining on a subject. Given that the Columbia or ACGIH recommendation for UV-A is 1000 milliW/cm2 for 1 second, we can convert to get an exposure time for the Blak-Ray lamp of 1000/8.9 = 112 seconds = 1.87 minutes. (This does make the assumption that the Blak-Ray lamp is only outputting UV-A. The Blak-Ray also outputs some UV-B, but we are ignoring it just to get an estimate.) So, within an 8 hour day you only have a little under 2 minutes without protection to safely(?) experience UV-light from a Blak-Ray B-100 lamp at a distance of 25 cm (10 in) If you have the Blak-Ray shining directly on yourself at the closer distance of 5 cm (2"), then within an 8 hour day you only have a recommended exposure time of 46 seconds. Wear your UV-blocking goggles. And remember that even if you should one time escape obvious UV keratitis of your cornea when looking at UV-light with no eye protection, the UV damage to eyes and skin is cumulative. Eventually UV-light will getcha if you don't protect yourself! And now for a musical interlude: Start at 52 seconds in. UVA-in-Sunlight vs. the Blak-Ray B-100 Lamp Reference: Incoming Sunlight from NASA Earth Observatory All radiation from sunlight is equivalent to an intensity of 1.36 kiloWatts/m2 at the distance from sun to earth. That translates to 136 milliWatts/cm2 at the distance from sun to earth. Convert: 1kW = 106mW (milliWatts) Convert: 1m2 = 104cm2 Of course, this total solar irradiance figure must be modified by reference to geometry, angles, atmosphere and so on when used in any model. Nevertheless, we'll use the 136 milliWatts/cm2 value in the following little estimate as a worst-case kind of intensity from a presumed directly perpendicular ray of sunlight hitting an arm on the ground. At ground level sunlight consists of about 3% UV. So, UV-in-sunlight has an approximate intensity of (136)(.03) = 4.08 milliWatts/cm2 at the distance from sun to earth. From the preceding section, we have that the Blak-Ray lamp has an intensity 8.9 milliWatts/cm2 at a distance of 25 cm (10 in). On a good strong sunny day, put your right arm on the ground and put a Blak-Ray lamp about 25 cm (10 in) away from it. Now put your left arm on the ground. In your current awkward position, the Blak-Ray lamp intensity at 10 inches from your right arm is approximately twice that of the UV-in-sunlight reaching your left arm. 8.9/4.08 = 2.18 Make sure you are wearing your hat and sunglasses when you perform this arm-burning experiment. Your right arm which is 10 inches under that Blak-Ray lamp will be good for about 112 seconds, a little under 2 minutes, before sunburning begins. Your left arm will be in the sunlight for about 245 seconds = 4.08 minutes before it begins to fry. If your Blak-Ray lamp is placed about 5 cm (2 in) inches from your arm, then the Blak-Ray intensity at 2 inches from your arm is approximately 5 times that of the UV-in-sunlight reaching your arm. 21.7/4.08 = 5.3 Please don't mess around with your Blak-Ray lamps by shining them in anybody's eyes or skin, whether human or animal. UV-C @ 254 nm vs. the Blak-Ray Lamp From above, recall the approximations for unprotected exposure lengths. 60 seconds for the 254 nm UV-C source at a distance which produces the intensity 0.1 milliWatts/cm2. 112 seconds for the Blak-Ray Lamp at 25 cm distance with intensity 8.9 milliWatts/cm. Convert UV-C: 0.1milliWatts/cm2 for 60 sec = 6 milliWatts/cm2 for 1 second. Convert Blak-Ray: 8.9 milliWatts/cm2 for 112 sec = 996.8 milliWatts/cm2 for 1 second @ 25cm distance. During a 1 second interval, you could be safely(?) exposed to 166 times more Blak-Ray light than UV-C light. I hope that I have stated that sensibly. The point is that UV-C is quite dangerous when compared to the usual mostly UV-A illumination and it takes very, very little time before UV-C damage begins. I would like to have the numbers for an actual UV-C device to better make the point here. I would also like to have the numbers for one of the 365 nm UV-LEDs so I could make similar comparisons. Whatever I'm missing here (aside from a few UV-fried brain cells), please let me know and I'll correct it. Thanks!

Don says it better than I can. http://donklipstein.com/xesafe.html

Today I tried my Nissin Di622 MKII flashes with my NEX-6. Well I could only use remote triggering as the flash is the old Minolta Not Compatible With Anything Hot Shoe and the NEX-6 is the new Sony Universal Not Compatible With Anything Hot Shoe :) and my Hot Shoe adapter have not arrived yet *shakes fist at Hong Kong Mail*. The initial tests were so disappointing that does not worths mentioning. As I photographed the unit in UV I quickly understood that the little plastic window on it's front is blocking UV a lot. (see fig. 1). fig. 1 - The Flash Unit in UV. Notice the black screen as it absorbs almost all UV. Since I don't use the flashes for serious work I don't mind to break them :) so I quickly opened up as much as I can to remove this plastic. Putting it against a UV source it further shows how much UV it blocks (fig.2). fig.2 - The Front screen against a LED UV light. Once I had one unit without the screen and one with the screen I've decided to see how they perform in UV. My test environment was our electric intake room :) which is dark, has a nice grey brick wall and most importantly I am not disturbed there (and no other ambient light). I set both units in Slave Mode, with the sensor facing me and the NEX-6 flash unit triggers both units. The NEX-6 flash has very very little UV emission, so it does not interferes with the test. You can also see a small UV LED unit which I've used to help me focus in UV. I used the same settings for all shots which is: ISO 800, f8.0, 1/60. The lens was a Nikon EL-Nikkor 50mm f2.8 old version, with a Hoya U360 + Schott BG40 stack. I was approximately 3 meters far from the wall. In Slave mode the power of the flash can be set in 6 steps. First i set both units to half power (3 bars out of 6), the results did not surprise me, the flash unit with the screen, is next to no emission (fig.3) fig 3 - Half Power At 100% (6 bars) the difference is even more visible. fig.4 - We're going in Full Throttle! Next I put both units approx 1m far from the wall and used full power. fig. 5 - Distance from wall: 1m And one more test at 2m. fig. 6 - Distance from wall: 2m I also tested both of them in visible light, which shows that the screen is not just blocking UV but also focusing the light a little more. fig.7 - Visible spectrum So as you can see removing the screen will greatly improve the UV performance for the cost of distance. I could be great for Macro work as it will cover a wider area but only on a shorter distance. The plan is to replace the screen with a non-UV-blocking perspex to avoid dust entering the unit and hopefully I can soon mount it directly on the camera with the Sony adapter. The unit is quite cheap, you can grab one for around £100 on eBay. I find it a little slow as recharging times are around 2 seconds (with proper batteries... £1 batteries might take 3-4 seconds!)

Testing equipment: Panasonic DMC G5 full spectrum converted. El Nikkor 80mm F/4.5 old version. S8612 (1 mm) for visual, S8612+UG11 (1.75mm) for UV shots. Flower used: a species of soapwort (Caryophyllaceae) from our front garden (did not know it is so pretty in blue!) All photos are not processed (not even for exposure). saved as raw+jpeg and I resized the jpeg to 1000 pix mag and uploaded them here. ISO=160, F8, most photos at 2 seconds, last one with my glasses 10 sec. I wait till the camera shutter is open and then fire the flashes via test button. 1. setup. Flash is situated about 4-5" from the right side of the flower. I put the flower on a piece of virgin PTFE so I can see if my WB preset (under sunlight) would work ok with flash also. 2. Visual color. all white. 3. UV, with modified Canon 199A per John's instructions (thank you!). I had to wiggle/pry a bit to get the cover off. Right now the bulb+reflector box has too much room and it moves a bit. 4. I then tried an non-mofified Canon 199A, since I bought two! and it gave some UV! enough for a shot. but it has a bluish tint. this should be able to be removed vial WB adjustment, I assume. I bought Photoninja last night but did not try it on this photo yet. 5. I then tried my old flash. Promatic FTD 4500 AF, supposed for Minolta but I thought I used it for my Nikon FE/2020. Yes! no tint and almost as good as modified 199A. I will stop my ebay to sell it! 6. I tried my Nikon SB600. no good! modern flashes do a much job in blocking UV? be careful with your old flashes... I did 2 tests and had a control (2 seconds exposure with no flash) and all three photos are the same. only one presented here (with SB600). 7. I then repeated the Promatic flash (just in case I made a mistake last time!), closer, and brighter, even brighter than the 2nd photo with modofied 199A. 8. So this means the UV blocks is not too efficient on 199A? Yes, it perhaps reduces UV by 50%, eye-ball test :D 9. My glasses with UV blocker seems to work much much better than the plastic UV blocker on the 199A! Conclusion. we now have a cheap flash (similar price to 199A on ebay) that requires no modifications! I wonder if I burn the plastic whether the UV will increase 50% or not? Another project.

Hi everybody Another test with an Allamanda flower (it is the only flower in my garden that gives a good UV reflection) :D I'll have to plant some Gazania's & perhaps a Lasiandra too (I am not a gardener). This Allamanda is in a studio setting (my laundry) & I have set it up with a 400 watt 365nm UV party lamp. Yes it is big...the globe is as big as a football! My beloved Sigma DP2 had told me that I have opened it up too many times & refuses to go :D So I converted a Sigma DP1 to full spectrum to try these shots. The extra UV output is an improvement & I can actually see the background now, I focused with a tape-measure. Cheers Col

So far, I’ve been doing UV-photography with daylight only. However, it was frequently quite difficult, often tedious, and sometimes even impossible to get reasonably sharp images, especially with subjects that have a weak UV-reflexion and with (more or less) constantly moving subjects. Therefore, I’ve been considering a UV-flash for some time. There are not too many choices on the market and the choices are narrowed further if one wants to avoid significant costs for international shipping on top of the flash price. I finally found two offers within my country (Germany). Both dealers were willing to send me a unit for tests, which I thankfully accepted. All tests were done with the broadband-modified Panasonic Lumix G1, the EL-Nikkor 80 mm, f5.6 and the Baader U-filter 2”. The first flash that I received didn’t meet my expectations. Even with my EL-Nikkor 80 mm wide open (f 5.6) the images were pretty dark with a yellow cast if I was using my regular UV-processing (first image). Most of the time I would have to use ISO 800 with that flash at f5.6 which doesn’t yield reasonable results with my Lumix G1: A selection of garden flowers ISO400, f5.6, 1st flash The second flash that I’m still testing is this one: http://www.kohlrusch...hre-Kamera.html The results that I get at ISO 200 or 400 with the latter flash look reasonable to me. The colours are very close to the results I get with sunlight. I would wish the flash was another 1-2 stops faster, but it is already usable and I think I can get better images with it than I got before with just daylight. Please let me know what you think! Oenothera biennis, ISO 400, 1/30s, f8, “UV Flash it” Image reference: NCH_P1090696_130702 Silene vulgaris, ISO 400, 1/30s, f8, “UV Flash it” Image reference: NCH_P1090705_130702 Campanula rapunculoides, ISO 200, 1/160s, f8, “UV Flash it” Image reference: NCH_P1090833_130705

STICKY LIST Sticky :: SWIR Photography: Cams, Mods, Lenses, Lights, Links Sticky :: UV-Capable Lenses Sticky :: UV/IR Books Sticky :: UV/Vis/IR Filters Sticky :: UV Induced Visible Fluorescence Sticky :: UV Photography: Cams, Mods, Lights, Links (You are here.) Sticky :: White Balance in UV/IR Photography Best Basic Gear: Goggles, Filters, Torches Beginners might want to start with this topic. Then return here for more details. Sticky :: UV Photography: Cams, Mods, Lights, Links by Andrea G. Blum for UltravioletPhotography.com Note from Editor: This Sticky began as a joint effort by the members of various forums who enjoy UV/IR photography. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, comments, proofreading, lists, links, measurements, experiments and all round good fellowship. Please PM Andrea B. on UltravioletPhotography.com with any corrections, additions or suggestions. Or write to rudbeckia at ultravioletphotography dot com. Abbreviations: IR = infrared UV = ultraviolet UV/IR = ultraviolet and/or infrared [ultravioletPhotography.com does not endorse any specific products as a website. We simply offer reports, reviews and gear lists for your further investigation. Any opinions in such reports/reviews/lists belong solely to the poster writing them. UltravioletPhotography.com as a website receives no compensation or income from any source.] INTRODUCTION Our purpose for this UV Sticky is to collect some useful information about UV-capable cameras, lenses, filters, UV-lighting and camera modifications. We present it in the form of lists and links so that it can serve both as a guide for beginners and a useful reference for more experienced users. The UV Sticky is not meant to be exhaustive, but if you think we have left something important out, please do contact the Editor. ULTRAVIOLET PHOTOGRAPHY What do you need to make a reflected Ultraviolet photograph ? UV-Capable Camera: UV light must be able to reach a UV-sensitive sensor. UV-Capable Lens: UV light must be able to pass through the lens elements. UV-Pass Filter: Visible and Infrared wavelengths must be blocked. UV Lighting: Sunlight or artificial UV illumination is necessary. UV Eye Protection: UV light is harmful! Keep in mind that UV photography is not easy because you will be using your camera and lens gear outside the Visible range for which it was designed. There is a big learning curve. Taking this from the top.... The Camera UV-sensitivity of digital camera sensors is best discussed on a per-camera basis. Actual measurements of a sensor's UV sensitivity are not made available by camera manufacturers. So our knowledge here is gained the hard way - we mod a camera, shoot with it and list it in the UV Sticky if it works well for UV. Some older cameras had weak internal UV/IR-block filters and could shoot UV/IR without modification - the Nikon D70 being the classic example. But in the newest cameras this UV/IR-block filter is very strong and must be removed to enable UV photography. If the camera also has a separate anti-aliasing filter, that must be removed as well. Newer cameras may have a sensor-covering dust shaker mechanism which contains UV/IR blocking glass, so this type of dust shaker may have to be permanently removed during the modification. Experimentation and sensor construction both indicate that the practical limits of UV photography with DSLRs from which all internal filters have been removed does not go beyond 300nm. This is partly because there is a fused glass layer (or possibly some other kind of coating) over the sensor pack to protect actual sensor elements such as the Bayer array or the microlenses. See the UV Cameras section for a link to a discussion of best and worst cameras to convert. A few brave souls modify their camera themselves, but most of us send the camera to a retail modification shop. Take it from your Editor's experience in frying two D700s in a row, that retail conversion is the best option. During UV modification the sensor is fitted with a clear full-spectrum glass of the same thickness as the removed internal filter. This is done primarily to ensure the correct register distance is maintained for focusing but also to protect the underlying sensor pack. With a full-spectrum mod, you still need an external UV-pass filter to block the Visible and IR wavelengths when making a UV photo. However, a full-spectrum mod does allow you to use other external filters to shoot Visible or IR photos. An alternate UV modification would be replacement of the UV/IR-block filter with an actual UV-pass filter which would permit use of the camera's viewfinder. We are beginning to see this type of conversion offered, but the UV-pass filter choice is limited. See the Camera Modification section for some links to retail conversion shops and DIY articles. The Lens There's no predicting whether a given lens is UV-capable if it was not specifically designed for UV shooting. Sometimes with a very long exposure an ordinary lens might leak enough near-UV to produce an image, but it likely would not record the fine surface details that UV can reveal. The most we can say generally about UV-capable lenses is that they tend to have uncoated elements, little or no element cement, a small number of elements and, ideally, at least one quartz or fluoride element. However, we must also say that there are quite a number of exceptions to this general rule. Do note that most UV-capable lenses have an axial chromatic aberration problem called 'focus shift' to deal with. Fortunately, some extremely experienced UV shooters have provided us with an extensive list of UV-capable lenses. See the Sticky :: UV-Capable Lenses for more info on UV-capable lenses, diffraction and focus shift. The Filter Nothing ruins a UV photograph more than the dreaded IR contamination which can wipe out the details of a flower's UV signature or cause UV dark areas to wash out. A good UV-pass filter that blocks Visible and Infrared wavelengths is a necessity if you want to claim that you are truly shooting UV. The Baader-U sets the standard for UV-pass filters. But because you might also be using your full-spectrum mod for Visible, IR or multiple-spectral shooting, we have information about other types of filters, too. See the Sticky :: UV/Vis/IR Filter for extensive filter information. The Lighting To make a photograph, you gotta have light. To make a UV photograph, you gotta have UV light. Sure, there is always the Sun. But what do you do if you are shooting UV indoors ? Or, in the extreme case, what do you do if you are shooting UV in Norway in the middle of winter when the UV index is at zero ?? Well, you pop on some UV-blocking eye protection, fire up your source of artificial UV illumination and shoot away. We have a few suggestions about what works well. See the UV Lighting section for more info on UV flashes, flashlights, LEDs and UV protective goggles. The Eye Protection Now, an important Health and Safety reminder: Is UV Light Dangerous ? Short Answer: YES !! It is MANDATORY to wear UV-protective goggles when using UV emitting flashes, flashlights, LEDs or lamps. And please wear UV-protective sunglasses outdoors. Ultraviolet light is typically broken up into long, medium and short wavebands. UV-A: 320–400nm = long wave. UV-B: 290–320nm = medium wave. UV-C: 100–290nm = short wave. The UV that reaches us from sunlight is mostly UV-A (~95%) and a little UV-B. Overexposure to the UV in sunlight or UV from UV-flashes, UV-strobes, UV-bulbs or UV-LEDs can cause cumulative skin and eye damage leading to skin cancers, melanoma, corneal sunburn, cataracts and macular degeneration. The shorter the wavelengths, the more damaging the UV. UV and Your Eyes :: UV Safety Reference Ultraviolet Keratitis Corneal Flash Burns Facts about Cataract New research sheds light on how UV rays may contribute to cataract How Sunlight Damages the Eyes Skin Cancer Facts UV photographs are made in the UV-A band. Wrap around sports goggles that block UV are good as UV-protective eyewear for UV photography. You can also find UV-protective goggles at safety or lab supply stores. You will likely not encounter any UV-C except in a science laboratory or in the context of germicidal lamps. UV-C is far too dangerous for UV photography usage. Best UV Protection Goggles: McMaster-Carr Panoramic Safety Glasses Orange, ventilated, polycarbonate, good price. The orange color also helps against low visible violet and blue. [26 May 2022] See the UV Lighting section for more info on UV protective goggles. Check out offerings by UVEX which makes sports and occupational safety goggles. UV Photography Links To read and learn more about Ultraviolet light and Ultraviolet photography, visit these interesting websites and articles. Some of them have links to other UV information. First the basics from the Internet's reference standard - Wikipedia. Ultraviolet by Wikipedia. Ultraviolet Photography by Wikipedia. . One of the best, most up-to-date, well-maintained, honest websites about UV photography (in addition to UVP, of course): UV Photography by Dr. Enrico Savazzi Use this link to begin exploration of Dr. Savazzi's website. See also: http://www.savazzi.n...phy/default.htm . Now some links presented in alphabetical order by title: A Brief Introduction to Multi-spectral Photography by Ben Lincoln. A Detailed Introduction to Multispectral Photography by Ben Lincoln. All You Ever Wanted to Know about Digital UV and IR Photography by Dr. Bjørn Rørslett. A Simple Tutorial for Reflected UV Photography by Dr. Klaus Schmitt. Beyond Visible: Ultraviolet, Infrared and Luminescence Photography by Shane Elen. Crime Scene Photography Lots of interesting info here. Dealing with the IR Contamination of UV Images by Shane Elen. Look here for good examples of IR contamination. Enter the Unreal World of Ultraviolet Colour Photography by Dr. Bjørn Rørslett. Extreme Ultraviolet Images of the Sun by Courtney Seligman. Awesome. Photography Articles and Galleries by O. Holovachov Photography of the Invisible World a blog by Dr. Klaus Schmitt. Principle Thoughts about Lenses + Filters for UV by Dr. Klaus Schmitt. Sensibilité des APN aux rayonnements IR et UV by Thierry Lombry. En Français. The New Scientific Angling - Trout and UV Vision by Reed Curry. Trout can see in UV! The World in Bee-colours by Nicolas Chalwatzis Цифровые врата в невидимый мир by A. A. Benediktof and I. M. Lutsker. На русском языке; in Russian. Ultraviolet Light in Reptile Husbandry Lizards and other reptiles need their UV for good health. Ultraviolet Photography by Bjørn Rørslett and Andrea G. Blum. Ultraviolet Photography of a Flower by Dr. T. Fukuhara. Scroll down to find a link to Prof. Fukuhara's remarks about assigning UV to one of the RGB channels in a composite photo. Please excuse the terrible translation for this nice website. Auto-translation has a ways to go. Read in Japanese here. Ultraviolet Photography with a Modified D90 DSLR by T.J. Nelson. Lots of general UV info, too. UVIRimaging by Dr. David Prutchi, author of Exploring Ultraviolet Photography UV Photography by Dr. Enrico Savazzi . UV Photo Links UV by Dr. Vivek Iyer. UV photos on flickr. Ultraviolet Photography by Eric Seavey. UV photos on flickr. Mundo Ultravioleta by Arnaldo de Araujo. UV photos on flickr. S3 Pro IRUV Photography by Dan McIntosh. UV/IR photos on pbase. Was sehen die Bienen by Danijel. UV floral photos. Ultraviolet Photography by Bob Friedman. UV floral photos on pbase. Ultraviolet Photography by O. Holovachov. Includes some UV videos. UV Photography by Dr. Klaus Schmitt. UV photos on pbase. Ultraviolet by Dr. Bjørn Rørslett. UV photos. Flowers in Ultraviolet by Dr. Bjørn Rørslett. Botanical UV photos. . UV CAMERAS The UV Stickies were begun by Nikon users so there are a lot of Nikon comments. That, however, is simply historical accident. We are happy to add any comments received about any camera being successfully used for Ultraviolet photography. Although many (not all!) unmodified cameras can record some UV if you give them a very long exposure, any camera will perform better in UV if its internal UV/IR blocking filter is removed. Newer DSLRs and mirrorless cameras must be converted to use them for IR photography because manufacturers have increased the strength of the internal UV/IR blocking filters. Many cameras also have a dust shaker mechanism covering the sensor which contains UV/IR blocking glass, so this type of dust shaker may be permanently removed during the modification. If you choose an internal UV filter for your conversion, you will have both the viewfinder and Live View available for focusing. If you have decided on a full spectrum conversion in order to be able to make use of external UV filters, then in sufficient UV light you can use Live View to focus your UV shots while wide open and then stop down to shoot. Very nice when it can be done! A UV-LED torch can be useful to shine on close subjects for UV focusing via Live View. For specific recommendations please see our latest discussion [26 May 2022]: Best & Worst Cameras for Conversion (Updates Welcomed !) The linked topic has a test for light leaks and/or contamination by internal IR-LEDs shutter monitors, and discusses the PDAF autofocus striping problem in mirrorless cameras, and lists cameras that you probably should not convert, and lists cameras that are OK to convert. . I have removed discussions about PDAF striping problem and the IR-LED contamination from this Sticky because the topics are well covered in the latest write-up. But I have left the warnings. [26 May 2022] Warning about mirrorless cameras using PDAF autofocus! Please consult Best & Worst Cameras for Conversion (Updates Welcomed !) Warning about cameras having internal IR-LED shutter monitor! Please consult Best & Worst Cameras for Conversion (Updates Welcomed !) . CAMERA MODIFICATION UltravioletPhotography is not affiliated with any online retail camera UV/IR conversion shops or any DIY conversion site. Links are provided here *for your information only*. Please post a question or do a search to find out members' most recent experiences with conversions. Keep in mind that when you modify a digital camera, you are voiding the original warranty. If a retail conversion shop is not mentioned here, then it is because we have no positive feedback about it. Reminder: Do not convert certain camera bodies having an IR-LED shutter monitor. See list above. Reminder: Do not convert certain mirrorless cameras which use phase detect autofocus. See above. Reminder: Any sensor-covering UV/IR-blocking glass dust shaker mechanism might be removed permanently. Reminder: The limit of UV photography with a modified DSLR or mirrorless camera is thought to be 300nm. Here is an interesting write-up about camera conversion by Dr. Enrico Savazzi: Filter Packs and Replacement Windows Retail Conversion Shops: USA Your Editor has had successful conversions from all three of these vendors. MaxMax (LDP LLC) MaxMax offers IR, UV, full spectrum, and UV-monochrome conversion. MaxMax has a 6000 square foot conversion facility in New Jersey with a Class100 clean bench. Cameras Filters MaxMax is the only conversion shop offering removal of the Bayer filtration in order to produce a monochrome UV camera which becomes 6 times more sensitive to UV without its Bayer filter. Other UV/IR related products: light sources, phosphors and inks, detectors. MaxMax FAQ and EDU. Filter transmission charts available and many sample photos. They post no warnings about the unsuitability of Nikon D700/D3/D3S/D3X/D4 for conversion so be sure to ask before converting one of these bodies. Kolari Vision Kolari Vision offers IR and full spectrum mods and other services.. Lots of Articles and an IR Tutorial. Filter transmission charts promised. Kolari Vision warns about the internal IR-LED problem. Link: http://kolarivision....ionservice.html Other unsuitable cameras are discussed in their Articles. Life Pixel Digital Infrared Conversion Life Pixel offers IR, UV and full spectrum mods. Filter transmission charts available along with lots of other info. Do-It-Yourself tutorials available. Life Pixel warns about the internal IR-LED problem. Goto the LifePixel FAQ Page, click on the first Question (Which digital cameras do you modify....) and then scroll down to see the Warning by the *a token. Lots of Tutorials and extensive IR Primer in addition to the FAQ page. . Retail Conversion Shops: Europe See also next section. Advanced Camera Services Norfolk, England ACS offers IR, UV and full spectrum mods. No filter transmission charts offered. Do they warn against unsuitable conversions? Optic Makario Germany Optic Makario offers IR, UV and full spectrum mods. No fiter transmission charts offered. Do they warn against unsuitable conversions? . Other European and Australian Retail Conversion Shops We would like to thank Robert Reiser for his excellent work in compiling a world-wide list of camera converters which can be found here: Infrared Camera Conversion Service: The Complete Provider Overview I will add some links below which we did not previously have, but I encourage you to please go to Robert's site to read more about the following conversion services and also about the 5 we previously listed above. Camera Clinic Australia IRreCams Infrarot Fotografie Germany Alan Burch United Kingdom (Liked by many UVP members.) Protech Photographic United Kingdom . UV LIGHTING Is UV Light Dangerous ? Short Answer: YES !! It is MANDATORY to wear UV-protective goggles when using UV emitting flashes, bulbs, flashlights, LEDs or lamps. And please wear UV-protective sunglasses outdoors. Best UV Protection Goggles: McMaster-Carr Panoramic Safety Glasses Orange, ventilated, polycarbonate, good price. The orange color also helps against low visible violet and blue. [26 May 2022] Do be sure to look through our tagged UV lighting posts on UVP : UV Lighting A nice survey article is found here covering many UV torches and flashes as well as other topics: Lighting for UV Macro by Johan J. Ingles-Le Nobel SEE ALSO: Best Basic Gear: Goggles, Filters, Torches UV LED $ UV-Led torches are easy to use for UV-induced Visible Fluorescence photography. When used for general reflected UV photography, please be aware that current UV-Leds are somewhat narrow-band and thus tend to produce a near monochrome false colour image. We note here that UV LED flashlights bought on Ebay or Amazon might not be powerful enough for reflected UV photography. Be sure to examine the specs. Here are some examples of the category. We are happy to add other examples used successfully by members. Convoy S2+ 365nm Nichia UV Waterproof LED Flashlight Review by member John Dowdy, PhD. Uses the NCSU276A U365 chip which is rated at 780mW. Hoplite365 UV-Led Flashlight This filtered torch emits between 360-370nm with less than 1 lux of visible light, 370mW, uses the Nichia 365nm NCSU033B chip, and is waterproof. MTE UV 301 Professional Flashlight This torch uses the Nichia 365nm NCSU033B chip, 658mW. Chart from Colin Borot-Moloney: Nichia NCSU033B UV365 LED Excellent review of this torch by Dr. Enrico Savazzi: MTE UV 301 Torch Nichia 365nm UV-LED Lamp/Flash Kit $$ Developed by Dr. Klaus Schmitt, this UV lighting kit uses a high grade Nichia LED and comes with a filter, condenser and power controller which is adjustable between 0-100%. Three versions are available: the Nichia 365nm 1-dice chip, the Nichia 365nm 4-dice chip (NC4U133) or the Nichia 385nm 4-dice chip (NC4U134). McGizmo Haiku 365nm UV-LED Flashlight $$ Made by Don McLeish, this flashlight uses a high grade 365nm Nichia LED and has a titanium case. A 385nm Nichia version can also be ordered. UV Lamps $$ Xenon Arc versus Mercury Vapor: Which Is Better for UV Illumination? From member Dr. Enrico Savazzi we have the following. In UV the mercury vapor emits mostly a line around 312 nm and a (usually higher) peak at 365 nm. There is a weaker line at 334 nm. Aside from these three lines, not much else of the Hg emission spectrum is directly useful for UV imaging unless the tube is coated with phosphors excited by the 254/312 lines to emit other UV wavelengths. Typically mercury vapor tubes are coated to transmit only UVA around the 365 nm line. Xenon arc lamps emit a much more continuous UV spectrum. So this is the lamp type which would be most useful for UV imaging. The Blak-Ray longwave UV lamp is one example of a mercury vapor lamp which can be used for UV and UVIVF photography. The first four links are from the manufacturer's website. The 5th link contains spectral charts, links to photos and additional information about the Blak-Ray. http://www.ultraviol...vf-photography/ The Osram lamp is typically sold for reptile cages. Its link contains a spectral chart and also a quartz xenon emission chart. Beware of high heat from both lamps. This can be destructive to living photographic subjects. Analytic Jena (UVP, LLC) Home Page About Analytic Jena (UVP, LLC) Analytic Jena: Ultraviolet Lamps Overview Blak-Ray® B-100 Series High Intensity UV Lamps Blak-Ray® B-100 AP Lamp for UV and UVIVF Photography Osram Ultra Vitalux 300W . UV Flash $-$$ Many inexensive Xenon flashes such can be modified to work for UV photography. We give a link to some Vivitar flash mods below as an example. The typical modification requires removal of the UV-blocking filter over the uncoated flashtube followed by replacement with a UV-pass filter (which may or may not also pass Visible or Infrared light). Read more about Xenon flash here: A Guide to Selecting Lamps Some flashes require external battery packs. For some flashes, it is not easy to make use of filters. Be sure to check the sync voltage requirements. You might need to use the flash off of the hotshoe in order not to fry it. This is neither an exhaustive list nor an endorsement of the items - just a few examples to illustrate the category. And don't forget look through our tagged UV lighting posts on UVP: UV Lighting. Those posts will provide many other examples of UV flashes and lamps. Kohlrusch Technical Light. Home page. A UV hotshoe flash is offered: UV Flash It. Note that the price is in Euros. Adapters for your camera are extra. Nikon SB14 Speedlight Modified for UV/IR by Shane Elen. Nikon SB140 UV-IR Speedlight No longer manufactured and difficult to find as a resale. Vivitar 283/285/285HV Flash Modified for UV/IR by Shane Elen. . UV Studio Lights $$$ Some studio lights can be modified and made UV-capable by removing the UV-blocking front glass and fitting them with uncoated Xenon tubes. The Broncolor and UVP Blak-Ray lamps listed below are used by UltravioletPhotography.com members. This is neither an exhaustive list nor an endorsement of the items - just a couple of links to illustrate the category. Broncolor Home page. Broncolor UV Attachment This is a visible light blocking filter for Broncolor's lamps. Chart. It permits passage of UV and IR. Painting Analysis with UV Light A press release from Broncolor. . UV EYE PROTECTION ...and we repeat.... Is UV Light Dangerous ? Short Answer: YES !! It is MANDATORY to wear UV-protective goggles when using UV emitting flashes, bulbs, flashlights, LEDs or lamps. And please wear UV-protective sunglasses outdoors. The UV that reaches us from sunlight is mostly UV-A (~95%) and a little UV-B. Overexposure to sunlight can cause cumulative skin and eye damage leading to skin cancers, melanoma, corneal sunburn, cataracts and macular degeneration. The shorter the wavelengths, the more damaging the UV. UV and Your Eyes :: UV Safety Reference Ultraviolet Keratitis Corneal Flash Burns Facts about Cataract New research sheds light on how UV rays may contribute to cataract How Sunlight Damages the Eyes Skin Cancer Facts . UV photographs are made in the UV-A band. Wrap around sports goggles that block UV are good as UV-protective eyewear for UV photography. You can also find UV-protective goggles at safety or lab supply stores. You will likely not encounter any UV-C except in a science laboratory or in the context of germicidal lamps. UV-C is far too dangerous to use for UV photography. Best UV Protection Goggles: McMaster-Carr Panoramic Safety Glasses Orange, ventilated, polycarbonate, good price. The orange color also helps against low visible violet and blue. [26 May 2022] The following links do not constitute an endorsement of the products but serve only to give you an idea of more which are available. Oakley Goggles Page Oakley UV Protection Oakley claims to filter 100% of UV-A, UV-B and UV-C. Uvex Goggles Page Uvex Lens Technology Uvex claims to filter 99.9% of UV from 200-400nm. UV-Block Goggles Inexpensive goggles from Edmund Scientific. No details given. Company 7 UV Personal Safety Equipment UV protective face shield, goggles and spectacles are offered. Lots of good info.