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Good evening, I finally received the second part of my filter system based on a U340 2mm filter and a S8612 2mm filter, both in 82mm diameter. This way, I was able to shoot in ultraviolet with my Tokina 21mm F/3.8 and perform architectural UV pictures. I share 4 pictures taken the last week, during a very cloudy day. The UV rate was really low, implying long exposure shots. Each picture was shot with the same EXIFs : 21mm, F/8, 200iso, 30s. The UV effect is the most visible on the windows of the buildings that become darker. For the rest, the global tint is warm and "heavy". The choice of ultraviolet here is only pictorial, I am waiting for spring now to try real landscape photography using wide angle with this technique.

I wanted to extend the focusing range for my El-Nikkor 80 and 105mm lenses. I reached infinity with my first combination of extension rings and a 24-55mm M42 focusing helicoid, but wanted to be able to get more close in the macro end. The solution was to get a bigger 35-90mm long helicoid with M52 threads in one end. This helicoid has an opening that is wide enough to allow the lenses inside. I glued a short m42 extension tube in the bottom of the front part of the helicoid and selected another tube for the lens to make it possible to access the aperture ring on the lens. The tube I glued was filed shorter, ca 1mm in the male thread end, to go as deep as possible without reaching the rear structure. In the shortest position I can still focus at infinity and reach the aperture ring. The M52 helicoid has a longer total turning range during adjustment (1-3/4 turn) and seems to give the same focusing resolution as the old M42 helicoid. The parts were bought at eBay: http://www.ebay.com/...e-/282303765481 http://www.ebay.com/...g-/220946248717 6 years later, links to similar, now active parts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144407730677 https://www.ebay.com/itm/234403540911

Very excited, as this arrived today. I feel very privileged.... Note, serial number has been removed from the photos. I'm looking forward to having a play with it. Not...excited...at...all....

Good afternoon, After my exhibition, I spend some days in the Azores and in Lisbon. While I only shot in infrared in the Azores, I decided to try street photography in ultraviolet in Lisbon. the widest lens I have for UV photography is 35mm, which seems to be a good focal for the street. Finally, I made a series of 16 pictures divided 8 diptychs. I show you half of them. About the gear, I used a Canon 6D full-spectrum, a Soligor 35mm F/3.5 and a Kolari UV filter. EXIFs were adjusted to allow handheld shooting : 35mm, between 4000iso to 6400iso, F/5.6, between 1/40s to 1/80s. About processing, I worked on the channel mixer the same way than for infrared photography to recover a blue sky. Thanks!

Good afternoon! I have finally achieved a good portrait with studio strobe : here the Broncolor Pulso G 3200J. I was so surprised by the UV power delivered that the final RAW was overexposed... Gear : Canon 6D FS + Nikon EL 105mm + Kolari UV filter EXIF : 105mm, F/5.6, 1600iso, 1/100s. I am pretty sure I could have reached F/8 and 800iso in this configuration. The focus is not perfect, but for the first test I am happy with this result. I will do better the next time .

Searched for a thread in the forum but could not find one on the Asahi Opt. Co. Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 1:3.5 / 28. Recently got this lens (back); I think I used it in the late 80's on a Pentax during a trip to Paris; moved 2 times in the meantime and knew that it had to be somewhere. Some data: (Have to clean the front ) Blacklight lit ColorChecker; filters: stacked U340 (2mm) and BG40 (2mm); 45 s exposure: Blacklight lit Strelizia; filters: stacked U340 (2mm) and BG40 (2mm); 30 s exposure: I still have to do some fieldwork with this lens. The images of the plant and the colorchecker show UV transmission. Anything known about the spectral UV range of this lens? Herman

Alas, I still have GAS, (Gear Acquisition Syndrome), which has now manifested itself not in old German triplets, but in a French cine lens. http://uvroptics.com/images/Angenieux%2012%20120%20lens%20AWB%201000px.jpg This is a Angenieux 12-120mm f2.2 10x12A that I converted to C-mount. The first of the great Cine zoom lenses. I didn't want to waste money making a large UV-bandpass filter for the objective, instead I have begun to put together a 30mm UV-bandpass filter to fit in the C-mount adapter. I need a bit more NIR filtering. Here are some images - 3x3 - set at 120mm and then just zoomed by steps down to 12mm. The UV is washed out by NIR, but the Rudbeckia shows some pattern. So, I am encouraged that I can get some use from this zoom monster. :) http://uvroptics.com/images/FL%20All%201200px.jpg Cheers, Reed P.S. - The images above, l to r, t to b, are the following focal lengths -- 120mm, 90mm, 70mm, 50mm, 40mm, 30mm, 20mm, 15mm, and 12mm.

Carl Zeiss 60mm f/4.0 UV-Planar Blades: 5 Elements: 6/4. Fluorite, LiF2 and other glass. FFD: 45.6mm? Filter: 46mm Mount: M39x1 Type: Corrected enlarging lens with no aperture window. Range: The cut-in is just before 300nm with a 25% transmission at 300nm increasing to 70% by 325 nm. Comment: The Zeiss product brochure states that this UV lens was made for use in criminology (forensics), for photographing old manuscripts and for enlarging microfilm. It also mentions using the UV-Planar for luminescence and fluorescence studies. Note: Last 3 digits of serial number are not shown. Data courtesy of Dr. Klaus Schmitt, www.macrolenses.de (accessed 30 Aug 2016). The UV-Planar on a focusing helicoid.

Asahi Opt. Co. 85mm f/4.5 Ultra-Achromatic-Takumar (1) Blades: 6 Elements: 3 fluorite, 2 quartz, 5 groups FFD: 45.46mm Filter: 49mm Mount: M42 Note: The serial number of this lens has been deleted in the photo. For those folks curious about the UAT, this manual focus lens was prototyped in 1966 by Asahi Optical Co. (which became Pentax which became part of Ricoh). It was manufactured between 1973-1977. The UAT has an M42x1 screw mount and requires a 45.46 mm flange focal distance to attain infinity focus. Thus the UAT is easily adapted to short FFD mounts: Pentax, m4/3 (19.25 mm) or Sony E (18 mm). I'm not sure about the Canon EF/EFS mount with its 44 mm FFD, but I'm sure there are adapters out there somewhere for that 1.46 mm gap. The UAT is a no-go on a Nikon (46.5 mm) for infinity focus. Still useable for Nikon close-work though. The lens has an Auto mode and a Man mode when used on older Pentax camera bodies.

Soligor 35 mm f/3.5 Wide Blades: 8 FFD: 55 mm Filter: 43 mm Mount: T2 (42 x .75) Comment: This particular Soligor Wide has the occasional tendency to show a faint, soft UV hotspot when too much light enters from the front. Below: The Soligor Wide on its T2-to-Nikon F adapter.

Isco-Göttingen 35mm f/3.5 Westron Blades: 8 FFD: 45.46mm Flter: 46mm Mount: M42

I just noticed a lens that looks like an exact copy of my Dixons Autocrat De Luxe 75mm f3.5. Can't see any difference from my Dixons apart the branding. The Dixons performs very well in UV spectrum, I find it sharp and has a quite long FFD so can be mounted on Nikon cameras as well and will still have infinity. The aperture remains a circle at all stops, thanks to the 10 (or 12?) blades diaphragm and it's a well constructed lens IMHO. http://www.ebay.co.u...s-/301339406325 here's a shot with my Dixons (f8.0 - 5" - ISO 200): And here's a comparison with the EL-Nikkor 75 f4.0 And here's a comparison against the EL-Nikkor 80 f5.6 at f8.0 As you can see it is just a very little better than the EL-Nikkor 80mm f5.6, but it starts at f3.5. The EL-Nikkor has a 34.5mm filter thread, yet the Autocrat has no filter thread at all...

This is a fun little lens. Two renditions. This is Vis + IR. I'm sure no UV made it in there. ADDED LATER: After those finally managed to load up, I decided I didn't like them after all. So here are two more renditions of a similar scene. This is how much colour is in the filterless shot if you reset the "black point". And another experiment. This one I think I like best. Those autumn leaves dotting the grass. The curve of the path. The skewed perspective. (Adds 'creative tension', lol.)

These are the seven "names" I have collected over the last year. These lenses seem to me to be very similar to Kyoei/Kuribayashi/Petri 35/3.5 in optical and mechanical construction, except for having: 1) black and somewhat wider aperture ring instead unpainted narrower one; 2) blue coating in two specimens. Hope it is of any use to the UVP community.

Just a dandelion I've picked on the other side of the road... and some (lot of) free time at work... The setup: Sony NEX 6 Spectrosil 2000 edition, Nikon EL-Nikkor 50mm f2.8 (old version) on focusing Helicoid and macro tubes, 2x Nissin Di622 flash modded. The exposure: ISO 800, 1/50, f16 The Postprocess: SW - Photo Ninja WB - picked from the top right corner's little patch Little exposure tweaks, contrast -26, detail +14. Little extra saturation in Yellow. just for fun I picked the White Balance on the yellow areas which gave me a blue image that reminded me of a negative, so I took it to Photoshop and Inverse + little tweak with levels and here you have a totally different picture :) I kinda like it! :) And just a shot of the rig I've used :)

I've a collection of 50mm lenses and decided to run them against each other. Unfortunately I don't have access anything with very visible UV markings, the closest thing I can get was a pear :) as the brown and green parts of the pear reflects UV totally different, with the green parts being black, metallic, and the brown parts being matte greyish. I also added the UV absorbing flash screen from my Nissin Di622 and a box of Johnson's pure cotton buds as cotton is very reflective in UV. All was front of a white paper. So far these were the only things that I know can show UV characteristics, so please excuse me the "poor setup". Settings: All photographs were taken with the same setup (apart from the lenses) and settings Sony NEX6 with Spectrosil 2000 Fused Silica hotfilter replacement, f8.0, ISO 800, 1/60, Nissin Di622 Flashgun with 100% power, Hoya U360 + Schott BG40 filter stack. To edit the pictures I used PhotoNinja with only color correction and cropping. The settings were copy-pasted, to ensure all photographs have exactly the same settings. The Lenses: Nikon EL-Nikkor 50mm f4.0 Old Version s/n: 284535 - 34.5 Filter Thread (FT), M39 - 44.5 Flange Focal Distance (FFD) Nikon EL-Nikkor 50mm f2.8 Old Version s/n: 297262 - 40.5 FT, M39 - 43.5 FFD Nikon Series E 50mm f1.8 Old Version s/n: 1186041 - 52 FT, Nikon F Meyer-Optik Görlitz Domiplan 50mm f2.8 s/n: 3856193 - 49 FT, M42 E. Ludwig Meritar 50mm f2.9 s/n: 1551766 - 35.5 FT, M42 Jupiter-8 50mm f2.0 Silver version s/n: 6513399 - 40.5 FT, LTM/M39 The Pear: Nicely shaped, picked from the local fruit store, sweet and tasty, a bit too hard. :D The setup in Visible Light (made with an unmodified Sony A6000) And now the results: And a download link for all the RAW files ~90Mb: http://clancode.hu/!uv/50mm.zip My personal opinion: You can see the EL-Nikkor 50/f2.8 and the Meritar 50/f2.9 are making the biggest difference between the brown and green parts of the pear, with the Meritar giving a slightly brighter picture. The 50/1.8 Series E is very close as well and it has the best build quality. Personally I like the EL-Nikkor 50/f2.8 the most. I find it quite sharp and easy to use, but since the short FFD you can only have focus to infinity if you're using one of the Mirrorless Cameras wtih short FFD. The 50/f2.0 Jupiter-8 performs the worst, and it has all of its coatings removed so I can conclude it is not really suitable for UV photography. All lenses are easy to find on eBay and go for low price, so any of these lenses (apart from the Jupiter-8) is good for beginners. For Nikon I would recommend the 50/1.8 Series-E as it's Nikon's F mount so no adapters necessary. For any other DSLRs I'd recommend the Meritar 50/f2.9 for the slightly better transmission and for Mirrorless cameras you can either go for the Meritar or the EL-Nikkor 50/f2.8 as the later seems to me a little sharper.

Today at lunchbreak I took the Meritar out with my Nissin flash to Finsbury Park... unfortunately weather was not too nice, very cloudy so could not shoot anything without the aid of the flash... It was probably funny looking as I had the Sony NEX6 in my right hand... trying to focus by moving back and forth (focus was set to the closest possible) in f2.8 then closing to f8.0 with my right hand while I was holding the flash :) Gosh, felt like a juggler from the circus :) In the end I've got a few shots I like (not love them... but I think they are okay :P) and happy to share. C&C is always welcome ;) All photos were taken with: Sony NEX-6 Spectrosil 2000 edition, E. Ludwig Meritar 50mm f2.9, 1/50, f8.0, ISO 1600

This chap is assembling many DIY manual lens tutorials on disassembling, cleaning & adjusting, reassembling lenses. Cheers Col

Recently, Andrea and I spent a busy week in the Lofoten Archipelago in Northern Norway. This is 68 deg N so far north of the Polar Circle. Although technically speaking our stay was a few days shy of the start of true Midnight Sun season, it never got dark even in the night. Thus I could shoot my 400 mm lens hand-held at midnight. Usually a brave feat but not at 1/1000 sec :) We stayed in a classic 'rorbu' (fishermen's cabin) on the Arctic Sea, at the little island Olnilsøy near Reine. Our daily view was an adjacent fishing village at the even smaller island Sakrisøy. Here is the scene we saw, 24 hours a day (taken during an earlier stay, in 2011, but here up north the time passes slowly): Boring. So we had to make it in UV, of course. This was taken with the 24 mm f/2 Nikkor AIS.... wait, that's not a lens for UV, it can not be? Multi-coated, high-refraction glass, cemented elements, the list of objections goes on. However, neither the lens nor I cared much about that. This is the beginning of a series of UV landscape test shots, using the following lenses: 24 mm f/2 Nikkor AIS, 35 mm f/3.5 Noflexar, 50 mm f/1.8 Nikkor AIS, 60 mm f/4 Coastal APO, 85 mm f/1.4 Nikkor AIS, UV-Nikkor 105 mm f/4.5. I shot with a modified Nikon D3200 that has internal Baader U2 (Venus) filter (courtesy Vivek Iyer). The general conclusion is that any of these lenses can be used for UV landscapes. You will, as expected, get much shorter exposure times with the UV specialists (Coastal 60, UV-Nikkor 105), but for landscapes where tripod-mounted cameras are the norm, any lens - in principle - can be used. However, do stop down lenses to near their minimum aperture to get the better quality for UV work. Again, a recommendation against the usual 'rules', but tested and tried. I'll present an example of the improvement by stopping down later. The major differences between the UV specialists and the 'non-UV' lenses are as follows, White-balancing in PhotoNinja against a UV-neutral target is possible for all lenses I tested. They all ended up at 2000 deg K (expected). However, the tint ranged from approx. -60 (UV-Nikkor, Coastal APO) to -85 to -95 (most others). The 35 mm Noflexar at -65 and 24 Nikkor at -75 were closest to the UV breed. This change in the tint setting indicates the non-UV lenses exhibit a cooler reddish cast with a tinge of magenta in it, compared to the warmer near orange-tinted output off camera for the UV specialists. However, by and large you can get similar landscape renditions with all of them after a proper run in PhotoNinja or other software capable of performing w/b in UV. Do not fear stopping down. I mean *far* down. The non-UV lenses did their best from f/11-f/16 (24/2, 50/1.8, 85/1.4). The UV specialists did their best around f/16 for this kind of work. Even f/32 with the UV-Nikkor or Coastal APO would be entirely acceptable. You can get a tad sharper images with the latter two at f/5.6-f/8, but the difference is very small compared to f/16 and the gain in increased depth of field worth the while. If you are on the outlook for 'weird' UV rendition, try a fast lens set wide or near wide open. You do need to use LiveView as the focus shift from what the finder shows can be very significant, though. The non-UV lenses in general requires at least 2, sometimes up to near 4 stops, more exposure. The 35 mm Noflexar, technically speaking not a UV specialist, comes closer at approx. 1.3 stop extra exposure. Do use the longest possible lens shade. The non-UV lenses can show traces of a 'UV hot-spot' if you don't take the necessary precautions. Needless to say, *any* ordinary filter has to be removed from the lens before you attempt to use it in UV ! This includes polarising filters as well.

This might help someone ? It was posted on another forum. http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2014/06/the-glass-in-the-path-sensor-stacks-and-adapted-lenses Cheers Col

It would have been indeed too good to be true! However, following some PMs with Zach I decided to double-check, just in case: Please find below my e-mail conversation with a person who claims to be offering a UV-Nikkor for the price mentioned above. After the last mail from "Adam" I sent a message to DPD. They told me, that they do not offer an Escrow service. (Their answer in German is also included at the end of the post.) - So it is definitely a SCAM. The exact same wording has been use also in other communications that can be found online. Best, Nico #################################### Here is the e-mail conversation with "Adam": #################################### -------- Original-Nachricht -------- Betreff: Re: UV-Nikkor? Datum: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 13:43:22 +0100 Von: Adam Gardella <adam.gardela@gmail.com> An: xxx Hello, I would prefer pounds since I am in England. 1900 US dollars will be around 1120 pounds. Attached are more photos of the lens. They are in mint condition, working as it should. The company DPD - Dynamic Parcel Distribution offer a unique escrow service, which provides more security for transaction. Here are the steps we need to take in order to do this (based on what they told me): 1. I will go to a DPD office and deliver the package. They will inspect and test the package content. Than they will send you an invoice with all details (including the result of the inspection, payment methods and delivery time). 2. Once you receive the invoice, you will have 48 hours to send the funds to the DPD manager (they accept bank transfer like all escrow companies). Once they will receive your payment, they will start the delivery of the package and send you a confirmation email with all delivery details, including tracking number. 3. Once you receive it, you will have 10 business days to inspect the merchandise and the option to accept or reject it. If the merchandise is not as described by me, you will receive a Full Refund in 3 business days. 4. If the merchandise is as described by me and you accept it, their manager will send the funds to me. If you agree with these terms, please email me your complete name,address and phone number so I can go and start the transaction. Thanks, Adam On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 12:24 PM, chalnicolas <xxx> wrote: If you mean this company: https://www.dpd.com/ then it looks good to me. I just couldn't find a link to their escrow service. Can you point me to that? Also, can you describe the condition of the lens and send a few photos of the sample that you are offering? Since you are in the UK. - What would be your exact conversion to Pounds or €, or do you want explicitly $? Many thanks, Nico 2014-04-04 12:34 GMT+02:00 Adam Gardella <adam.gardela@gmail.com>: Hello, In the past I used a couple of times a very good shipping/escrow company for international purchases which I made from Germany and Canada. They offer a good delivery/escrow service with 10 days inspection period. The name of the company is DPD - Dynamic Parcel Distribution and they have a good reputation in the United Kingdom for fast delivery and safe escrow service. Would you be interested in using this service for both protection? Thanks, Adam On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 11:21 AM, <xxx> wrote: What way of transaction would you suggest, that protects your security AND mine? Thanks, Nico Am 04.04.2014 12:15 schrieb "Adam Gardella" <adam.gardela@gmail.com>: Hello, Unfortunately I do not use eBay and PayPal. To many scams. Thanks, Adam On Fri, Apr 4, 2014 at 5:16 AM, xxx wrote: Would you mind listing it on eBay, (fixed price),, so that I can pay via insured PayPal? I am located in Germany and will be visiting Sheffield, UK on 12-14 May. Your price is ok if the lens is in good and functional condition. Am 04.04.2014 02:04 schrieb "Adam Gardella" <adam.gardela@gmail.com>: Hello, yes I still have the Nikon UV-Micro-Nikkor AI-S 105 mm f/4.5 105/4.5 Lens. I want US $ 1900 and I am located in Cullen, Scotland, England. Thanks, Adam On Thu, Apr 3, 2014 at 4:18 PM, Nicolas Chalwatzis xxx wrote: Hi, I've been told that you have an UV-Nikkor for sale. Is that still available? If yes, how much do you ask for and where is it located? Best, Nico ######################################## and the German conversation with DPD Germany: ######################################## -------- Original-Nachricht -------- Betreff: AW: DPD Contact - Comments Datum: Fri, 4 Apr 2014 11:46:15 +0000 Von: Info 167 <Info@depot167.dpd.de> An: xxx Sehr geehrter Herr Chalwatzis, vielen Dank für Ihre Anfrage. Leider bietet DPD keinen Treuhandservice zu Bezahlung an. Bitte wenden Sie sich an den Versender. Es gibt als DPD-Kunde die Möglichkeit, Pakete höher zu versichern. Mit freundlichen Grüßen i. A. xxx ********************************************************* DPD GeoPost (Deutschland) GmbH Frontoffice Mittelrheinstraße 19, 67550 Worms Deutschland Telefon +49 (0) 6242 909-0 Telefax +49 (0) 6242 909-149 E-Mail: info@depot167.dpd.de Internet: www.dpd.com Sitz der Gesellschaft: Aschaffenburg DPD GeoPost (Deutschland) GmbH Vorsitzender der Geschäftsführung: Boris Winkelmann (CEO) Geschäftsführer: Bernd Friedel, Thomas Loock, Thomas Ohnhaus, Dr. Jörg Schmeidler Amtsgericht Aschaffenburg HRB 8887 ********************************************************* Von: kontaktanfrage@dpd.com [mailto:kontaktanfrage@dpd.com] Gesendet: Freitag, 4. April 2014 13:18 An: Info 167 Betreff: DPD Contact - Comments Form posted on the DPD.com website ============================== Ihre Frage: Sehr geehrte Damen und Herren, ich möchte eine Artikel für $1900 aus England kaufen. Bieten Sie einen Treuhandservice zur Bezahlung an, der mich vor Betrug schützt? Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Nicolas Chalwatzis ###################################### These are the images that were in the last message:

Here ya go. I put together a very basic photo guide, demonstrating how easy it is to disassemble the older, chrome-base, all-metal El Nikkor 80mm F/5.6, for cleaning. 1. The front of the lens, with yellow arrows added to indicate the two "turning slots" where a small flat-head screwdriver can be inserted to aid with twisting the front module (containing the first two elements) from the rest of the lens body. 2. A high-quality, jeweler's flat-head screwdriver, inserted into one of the turning slots. 3. A side view, labeled with an indicator to show which part of the actual front module can actually be grabbed onto, and then twisted out (counter-clockwise). 4. Inserting the screwdriver into one of the turning slots, once more; side-view. 5. The front module (side view), which contains the two-most front elements, twisted out of the lens body (by hand) - after using the jeweler's flat-head screwdriver to give it an initial "budge." 6. The front module (top view), which contains the two-most front elements, twisted out of the lens body (by hand). Note the label added, indicating the next step, which will require unscrewing the even smaller retaining ring which holds the second-from-the-front element in place. Note also the element now exposed within the body of the lens, right behind the aperture mechanism. This can also be cleaned. 7. Unscrewing the retaining ring from the rear of the front module, by hand (pliers can be carefully used, if the ring is particularly tight.) 8. Final step: Retainer ring removed from the rear of the front module. Then, the second-from-the-front element, removed from being stacked against the front-most element. Now, one can effectively clean both sides of three elements (the front, the second, and then the rear element behind the aperture mechanism of the remaining part of the lens body).

Comment by nfoto (Admin): This topic is established as a placeholder for the various technically orientated post in the Felicia thread here http://www.ultraviol...ible-and-uv-a/. To achieve a continuity in the thread, I've taken the liberty of copying the second and third post in that thread into this one. Here is the comment by colin on Igoriginal's Felicia images. Very nice images & processing Iggy. I like the highlight of the petal damage here too. How have you controlled the excess UV/Blue from the S8612 filter in the Visible shot Please ? Col

I thought it would be fun to try an early, fast, cine lens made in Paris in 1950 or 1951, in ultraviolet wavelengths. I used a C-mount adapter on my full-spectrum Lumix and shot the following images. The only lighting is sunlight through a window. All shots will have vignetting because the rear element on the SOM is smaller than the sensor of the Lumix. The images were reduced to 1000px width. Lumix GF-1, ISO 100, f16, 1/25s, distance 12" http://uvrdefensetech.com/images/Visgc1000px396.jpg The same in UV. Again, the light source was the sun through doubled-pane windows. Lumix GF-1, PrecisionU, ISO 100, f11, 6.0s, distance 12" http://uvrdefensetech.com/images/UVgc1000px399.jpg The lens wide-open, f1.5, excels for distant - 10' plus - objects. The vignetting adds some glamour, IMO. I think I will play with this some more. :D

Today I began to break in my broadband Pentax K5, trying to figure out the various settings necessary for good UV photography and to learn about some unfamiliar features. I did pretty well except when I forgot that I wasn't using a Nikon and reached "by feel" for something that wasn't there. It takes a little practice to develop another set of camera muscle-memories. BTW, that K5 is a delight when it comes to white balance. I was able to obtain a white balance through a Baader-U which pleased me very much. Anyway, I thought it would be nice to test the K5 UV settings with one of my fairly new (to me), as yet unused UV-capable lenses and so picked the Meyer-Optik 35/4.5 Primagon for the trial. A few frames into the shoot here is what happened. Primagon in pieces. Yes, the front element and aperture detente ring with wavy washer fell right off. Never had that happen before! When I was setting up, I thought I had heard a little rattle in the lens but didn't think much of it. Silly me! Next time pay attention to Things Which Sound Loose and Rattle-y. Fortunately there was no harm done. I took the opportunity to clean up the lens, put everything back together and all is well. Tests of this Primagon will resume soon. :D