Search the Community

I live above a liquor store, and for some time now this brand of vodka has been catching my eye, not because it looks tasty (it doesn't), but because of the branding: UV BLUE, it says, but was it false advertising? There was only one way to find out. We must do the science. Having purchased the above bottle, I proceeded to my lab/apartment. First I tested an empty glass of water for fluorescence under the Nemo torch (365nm), photo captured with iPhone 12 Pro Max: Next, I poured out the water and added the vodka. A second photo was taken under the torch. The conclusion follows: UV BLUE is indeed blue under UV. Consumers have not been cheated of fluorescence, although I can't vouch for the taste.

https://www.fluomin.org/ One thing led to another today and I fell down the rabbit hole for a long time....... Soooo, along the way I read that alabaster fluoresces white under 365nm. How white? It did not say. But it occured to me that placing a hunk of alabaster (or other white fluorescing mineral) in a fluorescence photo might possibly serve as a white balance object. Trying to WB fluorescence photos has been an on-going topic here on UVP for the last few years. The WB standard for fluorescence is quite expensive, so now I'm hoping a chunk of some mineral would be useful and much cheaper. Here is the place to make a list of white fluorescing minerals under 365nm. I've never heard of most of these. There may be colour casts to the fluorescence, so there would need to be testing. http://www.fluomin.org/uk/searchbycoloruk.php

B1. (2021) Allium tuberosum (Amaryllidaceae) Garlic Chives. Photographs of visible, ultraviolet-induced visible fluorescence and ultraviolet reflected from flowers. https://www.ultravio...-garlic-chives/ Southeast, USA (Zone 4) Sept 8, 2021 Naturalized cultivar Synonyms: A. ramosum L A. tuberosum Other Common Names: Chives Onion Chives Wild Onion Wild Chives Comment: This sample was clipped from my back yard. It was seeded some years ago and continues to return every year. Reference: 1. Wikipedia (2021) Allium tuberosum. Garlic Chives. https://en.wikipedia...llium_tuberosum Equipment [sony a6300 unmodified + Lens Kuribayashi A.C. Petri Orikkor 50mm f2 lit with two 365nm UV torches Lumenshooter S3] Ultraviolet Induced Visible Light Fluorescence [White Balance 5500K, f/11 for 6s @ ISO 100] Crop Equipment [sony a6300 unmodified + Lens Kuribayashi A.C. Petri Orikkor 50mm f2 lit with two 365nm UV torches Lumenshooter S3] Ultraviolet Induced Visible Light Fluorescence [White Balance 9900K, f/11 for 4s +1.33EV @ ISO 100, Backlit] Crop Equipment [sony a6300 unmodified + Noritsu 32mm f4 two 365nm UV torches Lumenshooter S3] Ultraviolet Induced Visible Light Fluorescence [White Balance 9900K + Magenta , f4 for 1s @ ISO 100, Backlit] Crop Crop Equipment [sony a6000 Hot mirror removed + Lens Novoflex 35mm f3.5 + Baader U-Filter lit with two 365nm UV torches Lumenshooter S3] Ultraviolet [f/11 for 1/6s +.3EV ISO 100] Ultraviolet [f/11 for 0.4s +.3EV ISO 100] Ultraviolet [f/11 for 0.3s +.3EV ISO 100] Crop Equipment [sony a6000 Hot mirror removed + Kuribayashi K.C. Petri Orikkor 1:3.5 f=35mm + Baader IR Filter lit with Flashpoint R2 TTL Speedlight] Infrared [2500K + WB Post + f/11 for 1/160 +1.3EV @ ISO 100] Crop Equipment [sony a6000 Hot mirror removed + Kuribayashi K.C. Petri Orikkor 1:3.5 f=35mm + Baader IR Filter lit with two 365nm UV torches Lumenshooter S3 + UV Beast V3] Ultraviolet Induced Infrared Fluorescence [2500K + WB Post + f/11 for 6s + 1EV @ ISO 100] Crop Equipment [sony a6300 unmodified + Tokyo Kogaku Re Macro Auto Topcor f=58mm 1:3.5 + Topcon Variable Extension Tube lit with LED Desk Lamp ] Visible Light [White Balance 4900K, f/11 for 1/3s +1EV @ ISO 100]

Something I generally don't see mentioned about lenses, and something I only recently started thinking about is the lens glass fluorescence. Line up a few or more lenses on a table, and shine your 365nm torch on them and notice the difference in how some fluoresce more than others. Now of course the UV 365nm light would need to shine on them perhaps to make this a problem, and if you have a 420nm longpass filter or the like on your lens, then that would prevent the lens glass from fluorescing, but this is something to be aware of and think about with your lenses. Perhaps some people shoot UVIVF with stock cameras with no lens filter, and you may want to shine the UV 365nm light on your stock lens to see how much it fluoresces. I typically use a Schott GG420 longpass filter for my UVIVF shots, although I know that filter fluoresces when UV 365nm light is shined on it, it doesn't fluoresce with the way I aim the light and usually don't have a near background or much that reflects UV back at the lens. Point being, I guess if I can do that with no problems, then the lens glass fluorescing would probably not be a problem either. Just thought I would mention this aspect though. Examples: Kuribayashi 35mm f/3.5 doesn't fluoresce. Kyoei 80mm doesn't fluoresce. Nikon 18-55mm VR does fluoresce. Kyoei 250mm does fluoresce. Etc... Some of the lenses that transmit UV deeply and well actually fluoresce (not the ones I have listed, but some other I noticed do). So it is something to check for.

I've had a project running for a year or so on using Laser-Stimulated Fluorescence (also called Laser-Induced Fluorescence) to allow imaging of fluorescence of large objects and areas, including doing it in the presence of streetlights. The eventual hope is to use it on the ghost signs (faded signs painted on brick buildings) to bring out faded paints. Previous discussion of the topic can be read (in order) here On Laser-Stimulated Fluorescence: Intro to LSF and safety discussion (START HERE) https://www.ultravio...ce-first-tests/ Laser-Stimulated Fluorescence of a Pumpkin (application of the above to a pumpkin) https://www.ultravio...e-of-a-pumpkin/ On using image subtraction to remove street light from UV fluorescence images: Queen Anne's Lace, UVIVF w/ "Nemo," Noise-reduction Stacking https://www.ultravio...ction-stacking/ Tree stump UVIVF with contaminating light removal by image subtraction https://www.ultravio...ge-subtraction/ New results, using graffiti as a test subject Equipment: - Sony A7S camera (converted, with Bayer) - Micro Nikkor 55mm/2.8 AI-S lens - Omega light pollution filter (to attempt to reduce the streetlights...not very effective) + Tiffen Haze 2E filter to block the laser - 405nm violet 900mW laser, equipped with a 30 degree Powell lens (nominal power rating, not verified) The scene in daylight, shot with iPhone The scene in darkness with no laser, but with the above two filters (camera was A7S): The scene after alignment, image subtraction and brightness/contrast adjustment (with laser - no laser = fluorescence) The images were not stacked, but I did apply denoising afterwards with Neat Image in Photoshop.

Strong orange luminescence I found in one stone out of my collection. This is a pegmatite from alkaline intrusion of Hibinsky massive. We pick up it with my wife many years ago. My friend (geologist) counted in it up to 6 minerals, and one of them possess such bright orange luminescence. It may be orthoclase or nepheline. Imaged by smartphone in a light of Convoy S2+ (Nichia 276C) with 2mm ZWB2.

Had a lot of fun with this one. Am I posting too much? Please tell me if so, still dont know the etiquette here. Panasonic lumix DMC-TZ100 ZWB2 on torch Visible UV-induced Visible Fluorescence

This one was quite fun! Visible Uvif Light painted with random uv torch ( brand unknown) with zbw2. Camera is a compact panasonic.

So, you might have seen my previous post where I asked about this somewhat as well as I also asked about filtering options. I have talked with a few members but I still find myself indecisive. I would prefer to have a strong 365nm LED torch with a ZWB2 or equivalent filter mounted on it's front as to purify the output. I would like as much power as possible since I want to be able to stop down or light paint larger objects. Thus far I have considered the Nemo, and the Alonefire H42 45W. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002133384717.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.25733c00Uec9BH&mp=1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/402989627275 The Nemo is only 15W but it's output is supposed to be decent all things considered. It's also significantly cheaper but I'm not sure that it's output is enough. There's another problem though that the Alonefire could have some issues as having a genuine 45W worth of LEDs in your torch is difficult to pull off well, you need good components and batteries, and I'm not sure it's worth it for the price, it could only be slightly more powerful than the Nemo. Is there someone who perhaps has both and can compare? Or does anyone have any other suggestions? Really, I just want a lot of fluorescence and the option to take the given source outside at night. Some of you might wonder why I don't just go and order one of the options and see for myself, but my funds are limited and I put a lot of emphasis on spending wisely. I have already discussed this with a few members but I thought I would make a public post to see if anyone knows more. Thank you for reading!

I read the sticky for it, but has left me rather unsatisfied. I have two questions. First one is, do you guys think this looks like a good buy? Furthermore, should I get it with or without the batteries? I heard bad things about offbrand batteries from china. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLuw36f I picked this since I want as much power as possible, and I'm willing to pay up. This seems good, but I'm not sure if it's not too good to be true. I'm not sure AloneFire is a reputable brand. My second question is, what filter do you guys recommend to get rid of wavelengths of 400nm and shorter? Currently I use a vintage light yellow filter but it fluoresces very strongly and clouds the whole image in orange haze when strong 365nm light is present. I'd like to get something that doesn't fluores but in not sure if I can exactly afford a tiffen filter. Thanks.

UV flash used in dark room on the flower to get uvivf shot.. This is cool. Will have to try it with some real flowers.

Up-graded the UVB 309nm LED light to 12 LEDs with 40 watts of power. With a second one to finish tomorrow. Following is a variety of photos of various UVB 309nm induced fluorescence. First is a picture of the new set-up with U325c filter glass. Second is Three Rocks in Visible Light. Third is Three Rocks in UVB 309nm Induced Visible Fluorescence. Fourth is Three Rocks in UVB 309nm Induced 410nm to 1000nm Fluorescence. Fifth is Three Rocks in UVB 309nm Induced UVA (Baader U filter on Camera) Fluorescence. Sixth is Three Rocks in UVA 365nm Induced Visible Fluorescence.

Whilst searching eBay for a good specimen of an insect encased in amber, I came across several specimens of "Blue" Amber, all from Sumatra, Indonesia. It is around 10 - 20 myo (Miocene). I had not seen this before so bought a piece to try out. It fluoresces very brightly (My usual exposure when light painting is around 10 - 15 seconds at f/16. This was exposed at 5 seconds at f/22). I have included both frontal lighting (left) where the specimen is very dark, and a transmitted light version (right), showing a more amber like property. Note: "normal" Baltic or Dominican amber fluoresces blue as well, and UVF is used to distinguish it from plastic fakes, which abound! Technical Details: Nikon D850, 105mm micro Nikkor lens. "Nemo" torch, light painted. UVF: 5 seconds @ f/22

My setup goes like this. I mount a filter, shine a spotlight on the flower and hold a QB39 in front of the LEDs to filter out most pollution. I also have a reference 720nm IR image which was shot by illuminating the flower with a halogen light. Filters used on camera: GREEN.L 720nm longpass, unbranded 650nm longpass, ROWI GO-2 orange (I stacked it with the 650nm longpass to prevent blue light leakage) Reference (visible and 720nm): 720nm longpass, blue 15w spotlight 720nm longpass, 395nm 5w spotlight ROWI GO-2 + 650nm longpass, blue 15w spotlight ROWI GO-2 + 650nm longpass, 395nm 5w spotlight

Vintage Amethyst Glass Large Telegraph Insulator Agee 30, in visible light & UV 365nm induced fluorescence. This sample was made by Australian Glass Manufacturers in 1930. Colloquially it is called Amethyst Glass, but AGM added manganese dioxide & other ingredients to make the glass insulators tougher, it is similar to Pyrex, but because of Trade Mark restrictions it was called AGEE.

I was invited to a friends house to look at her collection and photographed these which I liked.

Went out to look at the Omphalotus nidiformis Unfortunately a little bit late in the season and they are a bit old but here are some shots from the night. Long exposure showing how they glow.. UVIVF Image A tiny mushroom on a log UVIVF Millipede UVIVF

Am I seeing this red in my shots because I am not filtering the lens?

Hi I was wondering if filter orientation matters or not so I ran a test. First image is made with the Hoya U-340 on the outside of the stack and the Schott S8612 on the inside facing the bulb. Second image is with the filters the other way around. The images are SOOC have only been reduced in size absolutely no other editing at all done to them. Is there a specific way to put the filters? Testing was done with exact framing and focus exact same settings and as close to exact position of light source trying not to move the light stand while changing flashes over. Each flash had fully charged batteries. Unless one of my flashes is brighter than the other I see a fair difference here.

Modded Yongnuo yn560iii and Hoya U-340 with Schott S8612

Awhile ago I found that it was possible to remove visible light contamination in UVIVF photography by subtracting an (averaged) image without the torch from an image illuminated with the torch. This method was used to excellent effect with the Queen Anne's Lace that I showed some time ago. The secret is to only subtract on 16 bit linear images, which can be obtained from PhotoNinja by turning off everything except the white balance. Do not try image subtraction on JPEGs! You won't get nice results. The filters used were BG38 2mm + Tiffen Haze 2E, and the contaminating background light is streetlights. The white balance and color correction were taken from the profile I made for the gourd photos the other day. The torch was the Nemo. Procedure was to take 30 photos with the torch off using the built-in intervalometer in my Son A7s, and then repeat the process with 30 more photos while light painting with the Nemo. I then took the median of the no-torch photos to get a combined no-torch image, and took the MAXIMUM of the light-painted images to get a combined with-torch image. Then I subtracted the streetlight-only image from the streetlights+UV image in Photoshop and adjusted contrast on the results. Final result: Image with torch + streetlights: Image with streetlights only:

I recently purchased a 15w blue spotlight from eBay, it was extremely cheap and I gotta say it's priceless, very bright, causes a lot of fluorescence to happen. I filter it with a QB39 at the source and on the lens I use an unbranded ebay 650nm longpass. Shot with a full spectrum Canon 1100D.

The carnivorous Hooded Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia minor) is found in the southern US. Quite unexpectedly the rim fluoresced, similar to the various tropical Nepenthes plants I have tried. Technical: Nikon D850 with 105mm micro Nikkor. UVF: "Nemo" torch, light painted, 10 seconds @ f/16, 200 ISO

I'm sure you all know about UVIVF, you shine UV on something, filter it out, and the fluorescence it causes shows, creating weird effects. Well, up until recently, little did I know this can be done with longer wavelengths too. I guess a lot of you already knew about this but for me it's an interesting discovery for sure. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8, converted EOS 1100D, 650nm longpass filter, 15w blue LED spotlight of undisclosed wavelength Please do forgive my filthy table, the fluorescence highlights every scratch.