One-Image Aerochrome with Green and Orange filter

[colinbm]

I don't think I have seen this before Birna, can you tell me the 'secret sauce' you used please ?

[Christoph]

When your "one-trick-pony" solution can deliver something like this, I'll buy into it ...

 

 

Fuji S5Pro with 85mm f/1.8 Nikkor.

 

Maybe it can... This almost looks like a photo of autumn foliage I got one time, but that was with a full spectrum SD1. The greenish cast is rather strange though, since it extends to neutral/white areas. I assume that‘s how you remember images from the old EIR process? Or what‘s the story/intention of this look?

[nfoto]

Straight through processing in Silkypix. This is what IE (E-4) ought to look like for autumn scenes with mixed conifer-deciduous trees. Nowhere near the garish "spray can painted" reds we see in the later E-6 film. Or digital imitations thereof.

[colinbm]

Straight through processing in Silkypix. This is what IE (E-4) ought to look like for autumn scenes with mixed conifer-deciduous trees. Nowhere near the garish "spray can painted" reds we see in the later E-6 film. Or digital imitations thereof.

 

What filter please ?

[Christoph]

Straight through processing in Silkypix. This is what IE (E-4) ought to look like for autumn scenes with mixed conifer-deciduous trees. Nowhere near the garish "spray can painted" reds we see in the later E-6 film. Or digital imitations thereof.

 

I like the color variation of the vegetation in this photo, but I don't like the green cast. And also that some of the stems and branches are the same color as the leaves. I doubt that this was the case with IE photos as well.

 

Regarding the "garish reds" you often recite: yes, I don't like the uniform reds à la 590nm Aerochrome imitations or even IR Chrome. But especially the orange-green method or full spectrum SD1 (depending on the white balance) produce nice color variations. It just depends on the original color of the plants. But just the look of your photo posted above with the range from green-yellow to red to violet is absolutely achievable with SD1 full spectrum, and without much post-processing.

[nfoto]

The original IE did make green colours. So nothing untoward there.

[Christoph]

I believe you. But in the photo above, the green spreads over neutral areas - which is probably from excessive digital processing. I doubt you can get that result with just an orange filter and a few simple steps. I have also tested with just orange filters. OG, 16 (which is probably more or less the same as OG), 21 - they all create rather monotonous, reddish, pinkish color worlds which are mostly pale. Simply because there is too much IR in them. The green filter controls that. Whether the result corresponds to IE or not, plays a rather subordinate role for me. If it's something new, all the better. I like the colors and the simplicity of the process - that's all that matters.

 

You can try it yourself and tell me how it is for you. X1 and Orange filters are not that difficult to get.

[nfoto]

Just the deep orange filter.

 

The Fuji S3/S5 models have a lousy sensor resolution and are troubled with colour smearing. However, their response to IE-emulation attempts is among the best.

[OlDoinyo]

The TB file was fun to play with actually. Took different basic slider settings than #12 for sure, and sky tended more greenish with lower chrominance.

 

Primary workup at upper left, with three Photoshop variations:

 

 

Of course, I don't know which exact style everyone likes, so am guessing.

 

My sense is that this filter passes much less green light than the #12, so a lot of what ends up in the G-->B channel is infrared. A stronger subtraction seems called for. I don't own this filter, so cannot test to confirm, but that would also explain where the sky color ends up (though it can be changed, as in variation #2.)

 

Based on my experience, the film with a #12 filter would probably come closest to the lower left example.. I don't know what the film would do through a TB filter.

[colinbm]

#1 is my pick.

[Christoph]

It definitely allows more IR to pass into all channels, which is why greater subtraction of blue is also necessary. As already written, from my experience the filter works better for videos (than orange-green), unless you can shoot in raw format. Thanks for the tests!

 

In my eyes, the filter is not worth the money (new price). There are better and cheaper methods for Aerochrome emulations. By the way, for all Foveon disciples: The filter does not change anything with SD1 and Co. It is also not possible to get the color changes (red->yellow as an example) with this filter.

[Christoph]

I just found out that you don't necessarily need an expensive Tiffen Orange 16 filter to get an authentic Aerochrome emulation. The Lee Polyester filter "Burnt Yellow" produces almost an identical result - together with Hoya X1, of course. Nikon's incredibly powerful (and cheap) 28-80mm lens was used.

 

 

[colinbm]

Wow, what a great effect.

 

[Andy Perrin]

It’s quite beautiful!

[lukaszgryglicki]

Just amazing...

 

[Picareto]

On 1/8/2021 at 1:10 PM, Christoph said:

@Da Bateman: So the best solution ist filter stack Orange 16 and Green X1, custom white balance on grey asphalt... then open PS, further optimize white balance, then do the channel stuff: Duplicate red and green channels, copy blue channel, paste into red channel, then copy the duplicated red channel, paste into green channel, then copy the duplicated green channel and paste it into the blue channel... that's it... It's all one image, one exposure!

Sorry if i am noob but i did not unsderstand how to do that copy/paste channel procedure....is there a video or some detailed explanation please.

Thanks in advance.

[nfoto]

Can be achieved very simple be making a "dummy" image of the same size. For example, in Photoshop, use <ctrl>N to make a blank image. Then, swap the channels by selecting a given channel then use copy-paste into the target channel of the dummy image.  Swapping say R(ed) and B(lue) would be R(orig)->B(dummy) and B(orig)-> R(dummy). More elaborate schemes are extension of this basic method. If you do the channel edits to your dummy copy, the original is untouched and you can always go back and give it another try.

[Christoph]

Make sure that your image looks like this before Channel swapping. In Raw: Try white balance on dark asphalt, just a dark grey tone, then shift the blues in the color mixer (-30, will get some of the IR out) and the same with the greens (-20 or -30)... it should look like this:

 

 

Then you swap channels. You can also do it the following way, like with 720nm IR or so...: Swap Red and Blue channels (+/-100), Press OK --- then (in an new step) swap Green and Blue channels the same way...

 

 

 

[Christoph]

And please post results. I'm really curious to what extent camera brand (or even model) and lens are decisive whether it works or not.

[colinbm]

Thanks Christoph

[Picareto]

15 hours ago, Christoph said:

And please post results. I'm really curious to what extent camera brand (or even model) and lens are decisive whether it works or not.

Thanks Christoph.
With the hoya R72 filter on the Panasonic Gf3 full spectrum edited like you told.
 

[colinbm]

Looking good Picareto
It takes a bit of work & very subtle changes, Try the original approach at the beginning of the post, the Hoya R72 probably cuts to much visible in your camera.

[Christoph]

Maybe you misunderstand, or maybe I don't understand what you're trying to accomplish -- but for "my" Aerochrome emulation, you need Hoya X1 (Green) AND Tiffen 16 (Orange) or Hoya X1 AND Lee Burnt Yellow.

[OlDoinyo]

The R72 blocks almost all visible light, and whatever does get through will be deep red. That will perforce result in a very different kind of image.