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My UV Method: Nicolas Chalwatzis


5 replies to this topic

#1 Nico

    Nico Chalwatzis

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 21:47

Last update: August 25, 2013

Since the original post I have modified my method concerning the following aspects:

1. I have created a profile for Photoshop Lightroom, that allows me to reproduce the in-camera white-balance using a PTFE target when "developing" the RAW files. So the same picture show at the bottom of the post now looks like this:

Tussilago farfara, commonly known as Coltsfoot: Noflexar 35/f3.5 at f8, 4 sec. ISO 400
Attached Image: NCH_P1070825_130404.JPG
Image reference: NCH_P1070825_130404

2. I'm using mostly the Baader UV/IR cut filter for visible light photography with my broadband modified Panasonic Lumix G1.

3. Finally, I have acquired a UV-flash that I had mentioned previously: http://www.ultraviol...ing-a-uv-flash/
It is labelled MR21N, is made in China and can be found here: http://www.mr-chemie...hnik/uv-lampen/
and here: http://www.kohlrusch...hre-Kamera.html
Since I own this flash I've used it for most of my UV-macros. It also seems useful for some UV-induced fluorescence photography. I will be posting examples later.


Last update: May 1st, 2013
April 29th, 2013

Currently, I use the following gear:

Camera: Panasonic Lumix G1

I had this camera modified by a professional service:

(http://www.h-maccari...ss/?page_id=706).

It has been equipped with the UVI filter that allows a transmission of wavelengths from 350 – 1100 nm. So, according to this specification the range from roughly 350-400 nm is available for UV-photography.

Lensens:
  • EL-Nikkor 80 mm /f5.6 (enlarger lens): After I had severe trouble with a newer model, I purchased the old, all-metal version, which works fine for macro work. However, since it is an enlarger lens, it needs to be mounted on a focusing helicoid (what I did) or alternatively a bellow. Last but not least, it is challenging to find a step-ring that fits into the very unusual filter thread (34.5 mm). So you have to be a bit creative until everything fits together. My construction is only good for macro-work, since it doesn’t focus to infinity. On the other hand I have found some extension tubes on Ebay that allow a magnification of roughly 2:1. This lens is mentioned on several websites as a good UV lens.



  • Novoflex Noflexar 35 mm /f 3.5: This is another frequently mentioned UV-capable lens. It can be used for macro work and focuses to infinity. I use it mainly if I want to capture landscapes or other objects that are too big for the above lens.
Filters:
  • Optic Makkario IR-Neutralisationfilter NG, for photos in the visible spectrum 400-700 nm.



  • Baader-U (Venus-filter) 2”, for UV-images. These days this seems to be only single filter that transmits UV-light without relevant IR contamination. It is also recommended on many websites. Personally, I started with a filter stack (UV-transmission and IR blocking) that didn’t provide really satisfying results. Only the blue-channel was quite clean.
My light-source is the sun. However, I’m considering purchasing a flash with UV emission.

I always mount the camera on a tripod (Gitzo-Explorer, GT2540EX) with a Markins ball-head, and I use a cable release.

RAW-processing is done in PS Lightroom 4.

If I white balance UV-images I use a standard grey-card. However, the colours especially the yellows are never as saturated and bright as in Bjorn’s photos. I’m still not sure what exactly is causing this difference. It might be the camera type, the lens, the software(settings) the difference between flash and sunlight, the target for the white-balance, or a combination of different factors.


Attached Image: P1070825-5.jpg


Tussilago farfara, commonly known as Coltsfoot: Noflexar 35/f3.5 at f8, 4 sec. ISO 400
Since it was windy, this image suffers from some motion blur.

Edited by Nico, 25 August 2013 - 21:06.


#2 nfoto

    Former Fierce Bear of the North

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 01:44

Any details on the processing of your files, Nicolas? I am curious as to the colour balancing done. Panasonic cameras are known to allow a fairly accurate "UV-white" balance in camera. This of course requires a suitable target for setting the balance.

#3 Nico

    Nico Chalwatzis

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 21:35

View Postnfoto, on 01 May 2013 - 01:44, said:

Any details on the processing of your files, Nicolas? I am curious as to the colour balancing done. Panasonic cameras are known to allow a fairly accurate "UV-white" balance in camera. This of course requires a suitable target for setting the balance.

see above, I've updated the post.
Best, Nico

#4 nfoto

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 22:50

I think this just is a matter of setting the proper "UV white" balance. Then everything else will fall nicely into place.

#5 Reed F. Curry

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 01:54

I have found that a disc of pure PTFE gives me an excellent custom UV in-camera WB with my Panasonic.
Best regards,
Reed
http://www.uvroptics.com

#6 msubees

    Zach Huang

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 16:04

Nico,

can you elaborate the length of the helicoid (and mount)? then a nikon adaptor (M42 to Nikon?). I might play around with one such lens too.

Thanks,

Zach