Suggestions for my Next step

[Guest]

Hi,

 

I have been shooting UV-r with my Nikon D70 for several years now, and while it has brought me through my learing curve I am now looking to step up to a more capable camera. I know there are a number of things to consider in making the choice, and I'm hoping you can help me with my decision.

 

Here are the top factors/questions I'm considering:

• Must be Nikon (or in the very least, Nikon mount - to accept my current lenses)
  
• Should it be Live View enabled? (to enable PC tethered shooting, focus braketing, etc)
  
• CCD or CMOS sensor? (what is the difference in spectral sensitivity? does Nikon only use one of these types?)
  
• UV sensitivity! (of course)
  
• Resolution (anything higher than my current D70 would be nice)
  
• Cost (I have bills to pay too, you know)
  

My plan is to get whichever is best, and then send it to be converted to full spectrum. Though it would be nice to be able to just get it in full spectrum form in the first place.

 

So, if anyone has any inside info to share (e.g., spectral sensitivity curves <400 nM for Nikon cameras,...), that would be great. Also, your own opinions and experiences as well!

 

Thanks,

- Mark

[Jonny]

I think this is a lot like buying any camera.

 

I have used both the Fuji IS Pro and the D3100, both do a great job. The 3100 has more pixels and lower noise at high ISO. The Fuji has more dynamic range and a better build (as well as no dust as it is factory converted)

 

If it was me, I'd get what you can with your budget, and what you need.

 

The higher you go in the Nikon ranges 3xxx 5xxx 7xxx the more features you get, the newer cameras do better at high ISO and have more dynamic range.

 

If you want to strike a balance between cost and performance, I like the look of the D5300 but there are obviously cheaper options like the 3100 I have and higher end choices like the D610 or D810 for all out quality.

 

If you don't need ISO above 400 or prints bigger than 20" wide I don't see why you'd need more than the 3100 or 5100, I think other than the sensor, for UV the only feature that really matters is bracketing, but you can do that yourself.

 

Live view is important, but its standard these days.

 

All this is assuming you get a camera converted, I have no experience with "off the shelf" DSLRs except the Fuji IS Pro, I suspect the D50 might be the "latest" camera that "works" for UV off the shelf (it was that for IR) but other members will certainly know more on that

[nfoto]

I'm using the D3200 which is a great performer despite its small size. LiveView, 24 MPix and a moderately decent ISO performance add to its attraction. For those needing the feature, GPS support is present as well.

 

The D40X has 'only' 10 MPix, but is an excellent UV performer, likely better than the D3200, and was my workhorse UV camera before the D3200. The CCD sensor might have the best UV response in the class. I was lucky enough to have the camera with a custom-cut Baader U filter internally that makes the lack of LiveView less important. Alas no GPS, thus I had to use an external logger and synchronise the log with the camera files later. A bit messy and it introduces overhead and more error sources, but is doable. The ISO performance of the D40x is commensurate with its vintage, thus not up to the standard of newer cameras. You would be advised to stop at ISO 400 for best results.

 

Both cameras have held up very well in demanding rough field conditions. Sometimes a camera should not be judged on its exterior. As all my lenses for these cameras have CPU chips in them, metering and EXIF data work.

 

In their factory configuration, both have efficient UV/IR blocking filters so a modification is required for work outside the visible range.

[Andrea B.]

CCD or CMOS is no longer an issue. Nikon stopped using CCD and switched to CMOS in order to give its DSLRs a Live View capability. Nikon CMOS sensors are just fine for UV/IR work. I've used CMOS sensors in my converted D300, D700, D7100, D5200 and D600 for both UV and IR.

 

All the recent Nikons have Live View. And Live View is very useful for a broadband camera. You can zoom in with Live View and focus wide open through a UV or IR filter with good illumination. Then stop down and shoot. (That part about good light is important! Many of us shine a small UV torch on the subject in order to get the focus. Then make the shot with sunlight or UV-flash as our actual shooting light.)

 

The better the sensor, the better the UV shot. So you buy as much dynamic range and high ISO capability as you can afford. These days I would look at these Nikons: D610, D750, D5500 and D7200. [i just bought a used D750 from Lens Rentals to convert for replacing my D600. But I liked the D750 so much that I have not yet converted it !!]

 

Of the modern sensor characteristics, I agree with Jonny (above) and would say that dynamic range is very important for UV work. And that high ISO capability is next most important. Resolution (number of megapixels) is a purely subjective thing. More pixels give you more detail (generalization!!) if you do a lot of close work. But anything from 16-36MP (or beyond if you shoot Sony) will do just fine for UV.

 

HINT---- think about buying a good used or open-box camera. Nikon DSLRs hold up well and sometimes you can get a nice amount off the original price by buying second hand from a place like KEH, B&H, Adorama or Lens Rentals. AND---- remember that when a new model comes out, like the D5500, you can usually get the previous model, like the D5300, at a reduced amount.

 

UV Range: Unless you are using UV-dedicated quartz/fluoride lenses, then you probably won't be able to shoot UV much past 340 - 350nm. And current sensors will record that. Beyond 340nm it gets tougher. It is thought that you can't get much past 300 - 290 nm with our current DSLRs or Mirrorless conversions. I've had a lot of trouble shooting in the 320-330nm range. Aside from needing a lens which can pass UV in that range you also need illumination. Sunlight only has 3-4% UV at ground level when the summer sun is overhead and there are no clouds. Of that UV in sunlight, the falloff of UV solar irradiance from 400 to 300 nm (or below) is steep and rapid.

 

Sensor sensitivity to UV and IR is not fully known. Manufacturers keep whatever they know proprietary. There are a few sensor sensitivity charts floating around, but it is not always clear that proper spectroscopy has been followed. So, most of what we know is just practical knowledge gained through actual experience.

 

More about Sony. A reminder that you can use Nikon lenses on a Sony Alpha (or NEX) body very easily with a mount adapter. The Sony A6300 or the Sony AR2 are two very interesting and very worthy cameras to consider for conversion to broadband. And there are probably some equally good Sony siblings to those two.

 

Olympus and Panasonic Lumix are two other brands which shoot UV very nicely. I don't have any specific recommendations for those brands because I'm less familiar with them and their sensor qualities. With mount adapters, you could also use your Nikon lenses on an Oly or a Lumix. I think only Canon and Pentax are is ruled out for use with Nikon lenses if infinity focus is to be maintained.

 

It is difficult to make any more detailed recommendation about camera features without knowing what your typical UV subjects are and what lenses you use for UV (or IR) work. But, to summarize, I think almost anything you pick for conversion from the most recent 2-3 years of DSLRs or Mirrorless will do you just fine. B) [Older than that and you will start to hit some of the old limitations on dynamic range and high ISO capabilities.]

 

Anyway, I hope this helps. :D I'm sure other folks will weigh in with their current favorite choices.

[Andy Perrin]

I've been so happy with my Sony NEX-7. It's also my first real camera, so I'm handicapped by having little to compare to. ;-)

I use lens adapters as described by Andrea above. Mine are Fotodiox.

[renaud]

Just a small correction to what Andrea just said: Canon cameras can use Nikon lenses, there are very thin adapaters that allow infinity focus.

[nfoto]

The opposite direction is much more difficult., especially because of the electronic aperture steering of the Canon EOS lenses.

 

However, there are some very fine earlier FD-mount Canon lenses that can be converted to fit Nikons with infinity focus intact. Not a job for the faint of heart, though. I still own a 35 mm f/2.8 Canon SSC tilt/shift lens that now is in 'F' mount. A friend has several long lenses, up to 800 mm, converted from their original FD configuration.

[JCDowdy]

I studied this question a long time before starting my UVP internship. Broadband response with acceptable dynamic range are of course prerequisite.

For what it's worth I can offer these additional factors.

• Mirrorless - Shallow register opens up the world for lens choice as well as rear mounting filters.
  
• EVF - Love em or hate em you can't see UV or IR.
  
• Fully Articulating LCD - Max versatility including turning screen against body or angled for best viewing in bright sunlight.
  
• Good in Camera WB - Probably not a deal breaker for many but for me closer to WYSIWYG is better.
  

[Andrea B.]

Renaud - Thanks! Fixed the error. :)

[Guest]

So, in the end I decided on getting a D750; which I'll have converted to full spectrum. And to get an idea of how well it performs, I've taken a few images to compare its pre- and post- mod performance, and versus my current D70.

 

So far, its clear that the is much less UV sensitive. We'll see how much that improves once the internal cut filter is removed. I'm hoping for a big improvement!

 

Is anyone else shooting UV with this camera?

[Guest]

Also, if anyone can recommend a good service/place to have my camera converted... please suggest!

[Andrea B.]

As cameras have progressed over the years, the internal UV/IR-blocking filters have become stronger. So I am not surprised that 15 seconds netted you very little UV with the unconverted D750. It is supposed to be that way. :D

 

Currently the recommended non-Ebay converters are (in alphabetical order): Kolari Vision, Life Pixel and MaxMax.

Links are found here: Sticky :: UV Photography Intro, Cams, Mods, Lights, Links

In the last few years, I personally have had successful conversions from all three of these online converters. Bjørn did find an extra screw floating around in his D5300 Life Pixel conversion. How that happened, we have no idea. Otherwise that conversion was fine.

 

I'm not yet recommending any Ebay converters due to various reports about dust or "wild claims" or somewhat misleading information about filters. However, some UVP members have used an Ebay converter and been satisfied.

 

Mark, I'm excited that you are going to convert a D750 and looking forward to some cool UV shots with that!!

The U1 and U2 settings are quite useful. Put your visible settings in one bank and your UV settings in another bank. Then easily switch between them whenever you change from Vis to UV.