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Kyoei 80mm f/3.5 Sparticle tests


Cadmium

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Kyoei 80mm f/3.5 Sparticle tests. M42 mount.

Kyoei 80mm left, Kuribayashi 35mm right (for physical comparison).

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post-87-0-25780800-1451861327.jpg

 

post-87-0-40275800-1451861357.jpg

 

Reference for Sparticle board labels using non-related-lens/stack shot.

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Thanks Steve for the info about the Kyoei 80/3.5.

This is a lens which I did not know about.

 

 

(EDITOR'S NOTE:I added a tag for "UV lens" to your post.

Eventually I can use those tags to gather up UV Lens posts and add the info to the Sticky.

I also clarified what the last foto was for.)

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It seems to be harder to find than the Kuri 35mm, and nothing special as far as focal shift like the 35mm.

I think the better alternative might be an El-Nikkor 80mm, I have not compared those together, but this does have focus built in.

This does transmit UV quite low like the 35mm.

Andrea, also note your question about the 325BP10 filter 'lighting up' in the 330AF20 shot.

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Alex, that Miranda M44 mount - I have something in that mount, but have had difficulty finding an adapter. Can that mount be easily modified? Do you know of an adapter? Thanks for any pointers you might have.

I forget what the lens is just now as it is in the test box and has not yet been fitted with rings (or the adapter). Probably another 35/3.5 as those seem to pile up. (I am NOT buying any more 35/3.5s !!!)

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I acquired a Miranda M44 mount 35mm which had a T-mount underneath. I think it was one of the Soligors or perhaps another of my re-branded 35/3.5 heard.
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Alex, that Miranda M44 mount - I have something in that mount, but have had difficulty finding an adapter.

 

First, figure out if that mount is truly a "fixed" mount. (Because some are simply T-mount lenses, which is an easy solution, as JCDowdy pointed out).

 

If not an underlying T-mount, then the next thing to address is: How "fixed" is the mount design? Because even with some seemingly "permanent" mounts, there are screws which can allow one to remove the mount base, and reveal a clampable sub-unit beneath it, which may then allow one to attach the removed (transplanted) mount from a similar lens.

 

However, if all else fails, here is what I do:

 

1. First, buy a 43-44mm step up ring from here (although perhaps there may be less expensive venues? I just haven't found any yet, aside from this one):

 

http://www.bhphotovi...s=REG&A=details

 

2. Then, buy yourself an 42-43mm step up ring, such as this example:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...u4AAOSwstxVVL8B

 

3. Stack the two ring adapters together, then screw-in this stack to the rear of the lens. Presto. Instant "M42" mount.

 

Do note, that the thread-pitch of the above adaptations (with the step rings) do not seem to always precisely line up with the thread-pitch of the Miranda mount. But they are close enough to at least partially twist the lens in, sufficiently enough, to secure it.

 

Also note: Depending on which camera system you adapt this idea to, you may (or may not) lose infinity focus. It all comes down to FFD (flange focal distance.)

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An even better way to go about it, if you want to improve your chances of preserving infinity-focus (and, if you don't mind getting "down and dirty", and playing "Dr. Lenskenstein") is to completely remove the mount from the lens (if it can be removed in some way, which is usually the case), and then use a cold-weld product (ex: 'JB Weld') to chemically "weld" an M42 mount onto the rear of the lens. One can then use an additional M42 macro ring (in the appropriate thickness) to calibrate to as close to infinity-focus as possible ... depending on which camera body you're using with the lens.

 

(A varying M42 helicoid added to the rear of the surgically-altered M42 lens may be an even more useful way of going about it.)

 

In either case, I prefer cold-welding the slimmest possible M42 ring to the rear of a lens after removing its mount, so that it can be virtually adapted to any camera system without losing infinity-focus. Usually, this means using some step-up filter ring with an M42 thread on the male side (or even an M39-M42mm adapter ring with the M42 threading on the outside of the adapter).

 

Here is what such an adapter looks like:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...0q1og5hRujc0jIw

 

All of my above advice is based on the assumption that you are going to use this lens on a DSLR, such as a Nikon-AI or a Pentax-K system (which have larger FFD's, compared to many mirrorless cameras.)

 

However, if wanting to use a Miranda-mount lens on a Micro-4/3 system, then all of the above "trouble" can be spared, and just get yourself a dedicated Miranda-to-Micro-4/3 adapter:

 

http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B00AUKDR82

 

And ... also the same Miranda adapter for Sony NEX (E-mount) systems:

 

http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B00AUKDRQE

 

Both of the above adapters are already calibrated for infinity-focus. What's more, they are "glassless" adapters ... so the resulting image from the lens will not be degraded (unlike some adapters for DSLR cameras with larger FFD's, which place a "corrective glass" element inside the adapter to compensate for the loss in infinity-focus, but this can degrade the image quality and may possibly also reduce UV transmission.)

 

Edited by igoriginal, Yesterday, 14:34.

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Alex, that Miranda M44 mount - I have something in that mount, but have had difficulty finding an adapter. Can that mount be easily modified? Do you know of an adapter? Thanks for any pointers you might have.

I forget what the lens is just now as it is in the test box and has not yet been fitted with rings (or the adapter). Probably another 35/3.5 as those seem to pile up. (I am NOT buying any more 35/3.5s !!!)

 

My Kyoei had removable lens mount fixed with three screws, just like the 35mm version. I simply glued M39-M42 adapter to where the M44 mount was. It is not parfocal with other M42 lenses but I do not care.

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