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UltravioletPhotography

Really is a dark world out there... (initial landscape attempt)


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KarlBlessing

This was when I was initially trying out the LUV U II filter (320~395nm, 360nm peak) outside, handheld. Learned pretty quickly it needs a lot more exposure than I'm used to with either visible or infrared photography.

 

This is ISO 800, 1/15th, f/2.0 on a little Pentax Q10 and the 01 Prime (8.5mm f/1.9 , 47mm equiv). I have the Olympus E-M5 ii full spectrum converted coming tomorrow and hoping to try out various scenes with that, which will at least be a lot cleaner looking at ISO 800~3200 than the Pentax Q10 (which has horrible noise in any kind of light when you push it to 400 and beyond).

 

post-361-0-63536000-1623736386.jpg

 

The look reminds me a lot of orthochromatic film (blue-sensitive only) that I used to experiment with :

 

48coT8B.jpg

 

xI0mne6.jpg

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That is what you get with foliage.

As long as nothing is reflected by the surface, leafs with chlorophyl is very dark in UV.

Handheld UV is difficult, at least if you want to stop down a bit.

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You might be able to do handheld UV with your EM5MK2.

If you have the Sigma 30mm f2.8 art lens with smooth barrel or an Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro lens or a Canon 40mm STM f2.8 lens on an adapter, then you can do handheld autofocus UV.

 

The 14-42mm R2 zoom lens is also usable in UV, but a stop slower than the other lenses I mentioned above.

 

With m43rds you don't need to stop down by much to get a lot in focus.

 

I hope you have fun with the Olympus and don't have any camera issues from the seller.

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KarlBlessing

You might be able to do handheld UV with your EM5MK2.

If you have the Sigma 30mm f2.8 art lens with smooth barrel or an Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro lens or a Canon 40mm STM f2.8 lens on an adapter, then you can do handheld autofocus UV.

 

The 14-42mm R2 zoom lens is also usable in UV, but a stop slower than the other lenses I mentioned above.

 

With m43rds you don't need to stop down by much to get a lot in focus.

 

I hope you have fun with the Olympus and don't have any camera issues from the seller.

 

I've got a few Olympus and panasonic so pretty familiar on that end. I don't own any zoom lenses for the micro four thirds mounts.

 

In autofocus I have the Olympus 12mm f/2.0, Panasonic 20mm f/1.7, and Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.7.

 

Manual focus (mostly adapted) it's Olympus 9mm f/9, 1951 Canon Serenar 35mm f/2.8, 1980s Pentax-M 50mm f/1.4, Russian Industar 10 (collapsible elmar clone) 55mm f/3.5, 1990s Tamron SP Adaptall 90mm f/2.8 1:1 macro, Rokinon 85mm f/1.4, Russian Jupiter-11 135mm f/4 and a couple others. Have a 0.2mm pinhole coming.

 

Just got the EM5ii initial handheld results are promising with the 1951 Canon Serenar 35mm f/2.8 (Leica thread mount).

 

KRMdGJU.jpg

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Andy Perrin
That last post does look promising. I don't know the lens, but the photo certainly looks UV. I'm noticing a little bit of flare/haze around bright highlights, but not too bad (and even my EL-Nikkor 80mm has some of that).
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KarlBlessing

UV (320nm~395nm, 360nm peak) : F/1.8 20.0mm 1/125s ISO-3200

 

cWma5OB.jpg

 

IR (850nm+) : F/5.6 20.0mm 1/250s ISO-200

 

mPsqDyy.jpg

 

The lens being the first version of the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 (one of my favorite lens I been using for infrared aside from the old Canon 35mm).

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The UV portrait makes you tough (!) and Hollywood-style macho hardcore. By contrast, IR makes you young and happy. Take your pick ....

 

Nice beard in any spectral band, apparently.

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Handholding is easier with fast film than with digital cameras. Some digital cameras with very high sensor gain (ISO 102400 and above) may rival film in the UVA, but results will be noisier than an equivalent film image, and film has better sensitivity to shorter wavelengths than most consumer digital sensors.
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Those Panasonic 20mm portrait images look great. I have one of the 20mm pancakes, can't remember which. But haven't tested it in UV. Never thought to. I will have to see how it compares to the Sigma 19mm f2.8, which is also excellent in UV.
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