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UltravioletPhotography

Aaaaagh - I'm Full-Spectrum-Camera-less


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My Full-spectrum Sony A6000 seems to have did - or at least enough of it has died to make it useless. It has been acting funny over recent days, but up to now has got over it after a period of being naughty.

 

Things like shutter and screen work, but most of the controls on the back (review images, select ISO, select timer and multi-shot, Menu, Fn quick access menu, ...) don't. I've tried removing battery to no avail. I can't download firmware because the Menu key isn't working.

 

I've taken the opportunity to upgrade to a Sony A7R from https://www.infrared...versions.co.uk/ (who converted my A6000). It wasn't clear to me whether it was worth going to mainframe (edited to "full frame" !), but in the end I felt that my main lenses were up to it (but the Cassar S won't get used very much!), and the APS-C crop function should be OK with a 36 Mpixel sensor.

 

PS - just tried the A6000 again, and now it's working! It obviously waited for me to order the A7R - must be a function in the Sony firmware. Anyway, I obviously can't rely on it. I'll look at getting it fixed and ebaying it.

 

PPS - failed again after 4 exposures! It's definitely for the naughty step.

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Your Sony A6000 served you well for your tri-colo(u)r effort. Your A7R may have lower noise at higher ISOs, and this may allow you to take images faster through your 315BP25 filter, hoping your Focotar-2 covers full frame sensors.
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The Focotar-2 should be OK for full frame as it's a full-frame 35mm enlarger lens. This was one of my concerns in going for full-frame - but my main lenses (Focotar-2, El-Nik 80, and El-Nik 105) are all full-frame lenses and perform well. If I was still using the Cassar S a lot I would have stuck with APS-C. My only problem will be with the Soligor 35mm f/3.5 enlarger lens, as that was designed for half-frame.

 

But anyway the A7R has a an APS-C (crop) mode, or you can crop in post-processing: that's why I went for an A7R instead of A7, because the 36Mpixel sensor should be fine when cropped down.

 

Just got the first estimate for repairing the A6000 - £100. So might be worth it.

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eye4invisible
Always better to have a backup body, anyway. My D3200 full spectrum has been gathering dust since I got my A7 full spectrum, but at least it's there if I need it one day.
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Funny my Em1mk1 full spectrum got jealous after I got my Em5mk2 converted and now acts up. It will switch quickly in and out of play back mode and the rear control dial has stopped working. If I blast it with an air can it gets better. So most likely dusty inside.

Backups are good.

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There's always a bit of anxiety when equipment that you rely on, fails. I get decent FF results with a Nikkor 50mm/f1.8 Ai lens on my a7R, but vignetting occurs with my El-Nik lenses. The crop mode on the a7R is a handy feature, but I always prefer max IQ whenever possible.
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Update on the problem:

 

At the momnnt the camera is working OK, but I expect it to have a relapse some time.

 

I got a fix quote (about £120) based on replacing a board. But as the camera still works part-time I don't believe this is the way to go - it's more likely to be a contact problem.

 

Looking around the internet, this is by no means a rare fault, e.g.

 

https://www.ifixit.c...all+of+a+sudden

 

https://www.dpreview.../thread/3970067

 

https://www.sonyalph...not-responding/

 

These posts indicate the shutter being stuck in its half-depressed mode and suggest some remedies such as:

  1. Removing the top cover and degreasing the shutter button - I probably won't try this.
  2. Using WD-40 Contact Cleaner (not the lubricant/unjammer product) - I probably will try this
  3. Jiggling various controls - I will try this.

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Well its not unheard of to get dust in odd placed and that causes our cameras to act up.

My Em1mk1 has some dust, most likely, trapped in the rear dial and play back button contacts. As if I spray it close range with full air can it cures it for a couple of weeks.

 

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