Any suggestion for a camera to convert to full-spectrum?

[Stefano]

My Panasonic DMC-F3 broke. For reasons still unknown to me, suddently the lens couldn't come out and the camera gave an error every time. I tried to open it, but couldn't find the reason. The camera is damaged beyond repair. It had a lot of defects: no manual focusing, no control over the exposure time, fixed lens, no filter threads, the screen had two black dead blobs, changing ISO changed the WB and the sensitivity was OK, but not excellent.

 

This camera, however, served me very well. In about 14-15 months, I took, if I didn't make mistakes, 13599 photos with it, stored in 14 different folders. And that is without counting the series of photos taken for stacking. If I count those, we are at 18870 photos. I also want to thank the person who gave me the camera. Very little of what I posted could have been possible without it.

 

I tried converting another old point-and-shoot camera similar to it, but... I broke it. It was constructed in such a contorted way the only way to access the sensor was by breaking something.

 

So, now I am without a camera. Unless I use the VERY crappy 640 x 480 pixel chinese USB camera I have, which has a plastic lens with manual focusing (it can be a plus), I can't take any more UV/IR photos.

 

Any suggestion for a portable camera with in-camera white balance capability that can be converted to full-spectrum reasonably easily, and maybe under $200 or so?

[nfoto]

Perhaps a Panasonic GH-1/2?

[Stefano]

I searched them, it seems they can be found used, but are not common anymore.

 

I will keep searching, maybe I find more.

[dabateman]

I would recommend an Olympus camera. The stock filter is weak enough for UV-A and some IR.

For some how to take it apart steps see here:

https://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials

 

How to modify a Epl5 from the front:

https://www.mu-43.com/threads/how-to-mod-olympus-e-pxx-cameras.44060/

 

Here is an epl5 with the r2 kit lens that can see to at least 380nm:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-PEN-E-PL5-16-1MP-Digital-Camera-Black-14-42mm-Kit-Lens-/233803354679?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

[Stefano]

Your first link is so interesting! I can find most cameras there, very handy.

[colinbm]

Just remember when you convert a camera, that the Hot Mirror needs to be replaced with a same thickness of quartz window.

This you probably won't know the sizes of until the Hot Mirror is removed from the camera.

[dabateman]

If your lucky, some Olympus cameras can still AF fine after cracking off the filters. As most m43rds lenses are focus by wire and can focus well past infinity. There are many exceptions though and Dmitry eventually added glass to his home conversion Olympus.

 

For AF UV and IR with m43rds, these lenses are cheap:

Sigma art smooth barrel 19mm f2.8, 30mm f2.8

Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro and 14-42mm R2 kit.

Don't forget to add the lens cost to your camera.

 

I recently got a used Em1 for $200, only 900 shutter acuations. It's only one stop less sensitive than my full spectrum converted Em1 in high UVA. So still great with ZWB2/ug1/u360 filter with 2mm S8612.

 

I also just got a new Sigma 19mm to test for $100.

 

[Stefano]

In my camera I didn't replace the hot mirror with anything, and autofocus still worked.

[Andrea B.]

Sorry to hear this Stefano.

 

I think one of the older Sony NEX, Panasonic Lumix G, or Olympus EM is the thing to look for. They all have short flange focal distances so are easily adaptable to lots of older UV-capable lenses.The nice thing about Sony, Oly, Pana is that they can usually be white-balanced under IR-pass or UV-pass filtration. This helps when using Live View as you don't have to deal with the oversaturation of reds and pinks.

 

I know you are quite handy and can convert a camera yourself, but it is useful to look for a teardown or conversion online.

 

My old Panasonic Lumix GH1 with its original kit lens (14-45/3.5-5.6 G Vario Apsh.) will make a BaaderU, f/8, ISO-1600, UV photo in good sunlight in 1/3.2". And, as mentioned, the Gs are easily adaptable for inexpensive 35/3.5 lenses. (I'm not sure how "deep" that kit lens reaches into the UV.)

 

My personal experience is that the Panasonic Gs are quite easy and intuitive to use w.r.t. menus and dials. They do not get in your way while shooting. Birna and I both got a *lot* of good use out of our Pan Lumix conversions.

[microbat52]

What did you break when attempting the conversion? maybe it can be fixed? Do you have photos?

 

Mine (also a compact) to access the sensor I had to open it only slightly, disconnect the ribbons and then take it apart (putting it back together was a test of precision!). Just in case you find a similar thing in your next attempt. Also sometimes there are sneaky screws you have to remove while only half open.

[Stefano]

In my second camera there wasn't the sensor under the display, but a PCB panel as big as the camera connected to another PCB panel on the top (where the on/off and shoot buttons are), 90° to each other. The top panel was connected to the flash capacitor which was at another 90°. This time touching the 300 V output didn't hurt much, but then I discharged the capacitor just in case. And, one screw didn't want to unscrew, so I had to dig and melt the plastic to take it away. To lift the PCB I had to cut the flash capacitor, and then the PCB panels separated (breaking electrical connections). A disaster.

 

In my first camera there was no way to make the lens work, everytime I had an error message. As a disperate attempt, I cut off the ribbon cable of the lens (the lock on the ribbon couldn't be lifted, I would have broken it), thinking that maybe the camera could work without the lens, sensor only, and I could make a DIY lens for the sensor. But still gave an error message.

 

I don't think photos could help.

 

My sister has a pink camera that never uses, but it is forbidden to touch it.

[microbat52]

Yikes how did they even assemble that??? That sounds unusual. And yes it sounds very broken!

 

Hope you find a good one to play with!

[Stefano]

I hope too. A point-and-shoot is enough, but having the possibility to try different lenses to reach maybe below 350 nm is interesting. The USB camera I have has this quality.

[Andy Perrin]

I was quite happy with my NEX-7 and still occasionally use it, as the resolution (24Mpix) is higher than the A7S (12Mpix).

[dabateman]

Well an other option is to build yourself a portable pi camera like I did. The stock sensor in Hq camera is UV sensitive with the CM500 filter.

 

Touch screen $50:

 

https://www.waveshare.com/4.3inch-hdmi-lcd-b.htm

 

Pi board $59:

 

https://www.waveshare.com/raspberry-pi-4-model-b-4gb-ram.htm

 

Portable power HAT with 2 18655 $20:

https://www.waveshare.com/ups-hat.htm

 

Hq camera $60:

https://www.waveshare.com/raspberry-pi-hq-camera.htm

 

That's a UV capable camera that can do what you want for under $200. Just modify your old case to hold it all.

 

 

[Stefano]

That's an interesting option too. I will have to think a bit on what to do.