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Newer Convoy S2+ with newer 365nm UV Nichia LED


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The new version of the Convoy S2+ with newer 365nm UV Nichia LED.

This seems to be slightly brighter, I will test that with my meter to be more exact later.

The new version has a newer Nichia LED, Part No. NCSU276C N.

Nichia UV LED info page:

https://www.nichia.c...duct/uvled.html

 

I got mine at Gearbest. Cost is the same as the older one was.

Here are some specifications of the old and new LED, and graphs of the old and new LED which look the same.

This is a good improvement.

I have not compared the actual brightness with my meter yet, and I have not tested temperature build up difference.

I didn't notice anything else to be different.

 

Convoy S2+ Nichia 365nm UV LED (older)

Part No. NCSU276A U365

Size: LxWxH(mm) 3.5x3.5x2.0

Peak Spectrum λp (nm): 365

Optical Power Typ (mW): 780

Forward Voltage VF(V): 3.8 (Typ) - 4.4 (Max)

Directivity 2θ ½ (degree): 130

IF(mA): 500

 

Convoy S2+ Nichia 365nm UV LED (newer)

Part No. NCSU276C N

Peak Wavelength λp Typ.(nm) 365

Radiant Flux ΦE Typ.(mW) 1,050

Forward Voltage VF Typ.(V) 3.8

Max.(V) 4.4

Directivity 2θ ½ Typ.(degree) 120

IF (mA) 500

Size LxWxH (mm) 3.5x3.5x2.0

 

Older NCSU276A U365 LED graph.

post-87-0-53771000-1593046103.jpg

 

Newer NCSU276C N LED graph.

post-87-0-36825100-1593046240.jpg

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Interesting,

I tried to order the other LG 5W convoy and they sent me a SST40 white LED flashlight instead. I accepted a partial refund.

So I can't compare to my Nichia convoy. As it outputs zero UV and peak max is 447nm and 530nm.

 

I do wonder though the difference.

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Almost 1.35 times the amount of light from an emitter with the same size. Size is important, since the smaller the light source is, the more you can collimate it. A domeless/lensless version would be even better if you want a narrow, intense beam.
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Myself, I like using my PayPal instead of my Credit Card online. Gearbest lets me use PayPal, so that is where I get these.

I see them on eBay now a days, of course I can use my PayPal there, but the prices are a little more than Gearbest.

I am assuming all of them now have the newer Nichi LED in them, and Nichia doesn't even show the older LED on their page, so... the old LED is history.

The new LED does seem to have a bit more brightness. I played with the meter even, and it looks that way, but I have to get everything set up exactly to make tests.

It is not much different, so I wouldn't run out and update from what I see.

I am just happy they are as good, if not better.

The new LED looks different, easy to see the difference, same basic size, and domed shape.

Someone like Ulf would understand the electrical specification comparisons better than I do.

I have not got a good pic of the new LED yet, somehow I was having problems with that, got good ones of the old LED though.

All I am saying is that I am happy with the newer ones, the newer Nichia LED in them, and I trust Nichia's emission graphs, they are a reputable company, the graphs looks the same to me,

so I would say anyone wanting one is good with the newer ones, and Gearbest seems to have the best price I have seen, but if you want the best shipping rate with them, then they may not get there all that soon, unless you upgrade the shipping, which will definitely add cost to the items.

 

That AliExpress place, I won't buy things there because they want my credit card. Also, I am not so sure they are as good at Gearbest, who I have never had a single problem with.

I have seen a few things at Ali I wanted to buy... but nope.

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I noticed that the new LED is simply more efficient, it uses the same amount of power as the old one. In the worst case, assuming a forward voltage of 4.4 V, a forward current of 0.5 A and a output of 1.05 W, the efficiency is 1.05/(4.4*0.5) = 47.7%. This means that this LED is around 50% efficient, half of the energy it uses becomes UV light and half heat. This is a very high efficiency for a 365 nm LED. The Convoy will heat up less, while emitting more light with the same battery life. I wonder what we will see in 10 years...
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Myself, I like using my PayPal instead of my Credit Card online. Gearbest lets me use PayPal, so that is where I get these.

I see them on eBay now a days, of course I can use my PayPal there, but the prices are a little more than Gearbest.

I am assuming all of them now have the newer Nichi LED in them, and Nichia doesn't even show the older LED on their page, so... the old LED is history.

The new LED does seem to have a bit more brightness. I played with the meter even, and it looks that way, but I have to get everything set up exactly to make tests.

It is not much different, so I wouldn't run out and update from what I see.

I am just happy they are as good, if not better.

The new LED looks different, easy to see the difference, same basic size, and domed shape.

Someone like Ulf would understand the electrical specification comparisons better than I do.

I have not got a good pic of the new LED yet, somehow I was having problems with that, got good ones of the old LED though.

All I am saying is that I am happy with the newer ones, the newer Nichia LED in them, and I trust Nichia's emission graphs, they are a reputable company, the graphs looks the same to me,

so I would say anyone wanting one is good with the newer ones, and Gearbest seems to have the best price I have seen, but if you want the best shipping rate with them, then they may not get there all that soon, unless you upgrade the shipping, which will definitely add cost to the items.

 

That AliExpress place, I won't buy things there because they want my credit card. Also, I am not so sure they are as good at Gearbest, who I have never had a single problem with.

I have seen a few things at Ali I wanted to buy... but nope.

 

I like ebay, just because if there is any problems you will be refunded your money.

But now it looks like you pay extra for that privilege. Things are easily 50% more expensive.

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When I bought my Convoy through Ali express in late 2018, they accepted Paypal. Perhaps things have changed?
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For identification.

Here is the old (left) and new (right) Convoy Nichia LED photos so you know what you have. If your LED doesn't look like one of these, then you probably have some other brand of LED.

 

Side by side shows actual related size.

post-87-0-28797900-1593139835.jpg

 

Close up of LED's, and showing angled view of LED dome shapes.

post-87-0-30462900-1593139843.jpg

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I have compared the old and new with two meters, and there is little to no difference. There newer LED may be slightly stronger, but not enough for me to determine.

'Straight out of the box' it seemed to me like the newer one was stronger, but now with the meters I would say these are the same strength.

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Stefano, It did and does seem a bit stronger on paper, but ever so slightly, and I don't trust myself for that.

I am using U-340 2mm filters in both, by the way, for the tests.

I used Blak-Ray J221 in B mode, and a Solarmeter 4.0 UVA.

When metering with either of those meters the Convoy was distanced about a foot or so the same distance for all tests.

If you ask me, there is not enough difference to mention.

 

Yes, Andy, the new prices (on Gearbest) are the same as the older prices.

https://www.gearbest...9459962258.html

 

The ones I see on eBay are more, but I have not looked or inquired about the LED's in those, there may be a mix still at this point.

Gearbest actually has the old and new listed on their Convoy 365nm Nichia search, showing two slightly different prices,

but both of those links take me to the same newer item with the newer price, so it would seem they are out of the older one.

https://www.gearbest..._-365nm-Nichia/

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Are you using the same battery or two different batteries for the test? If they are different, are they charged to the same voltage? I notice that these drivers are not really "constant power", and the LED does dim a bit as the voltage lowers.
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This probably needs more testing. For now, it seems there isn't so much difference, as you said. It can also be that your old LED is particularly efficient and the new one particularly inefficient (they can and do have some variability). Still odd. Maybe, testing more LEDs, the difference can be seen better.
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Stefano, The circuitry is different also, notice where it says: "Drive upgrade for the 7135 x 3 ( older drive 7135 x 2 ), the new Nichia lamp beads, power increases".

So I don't know, Ulf seems pretty smart about stuff... but I am not showing an increase of light with the meters.

Since this version is the future, and the old LED doesn't seem to be featured on Nichia's page now, I would say that this is what we have now.

The Convoy S2+ UV was hard to find there for a while, so probably the older versions are long gone, and most any of them out there now have the new LED in them, just a guess.

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Stefano, Here are the two 7135 chips on the board that is out of the older Convoy (like the one you have).

I assume the newer Convoy probably has three of those chips in it, but I don't want to take one apart, because I have to unsolder the LED wires from the front LED disk to get the circuit board out.

*** Notice that there seems to be enough places for 4 of the 7135 chips on the board, and a space for what looks like another different type of chip.

These are contained in the brass LED module, the LED on the front, and the spring battery contact on the back (see spring in picture #2 below).

 

post-87-0-90682500-1593219642.jpg

 

post-87-0-13629500-1593219648.jpg

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Something is wrong here, not with you of course, but there should be a difference. I have two ideas:

 

- Do you have a multimeter (or simply a current meter) to measure current? Since the voltages on the input (batteries) are the same (you said you use two freshly charged batteries), and since these LEDs should use the same amount of power (rated both at the same forward voltage and same current), (the difference in output, if there is, is only due to more efficiency guessing from the data Nichia gave and you posted), both drivers should draw the same current. If not, that could be part of the reason.

 

- But I find interesting that you measured almost the same value. Did you hit the maximum amount of UV your meter can measure? Maybe it just stops measuring above about 144-145 mW/cm2, and anything above is shown to have that value. If that's the case, try measuring again with your torches at a certain distance, to significantly reduce the irradiance on the meter. If there is a difference, now your meter will not be "saturated" and will see it.

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1050mW is a bigger number than 780mW of the older Convoy. But they are both 0.5A flashlight being driven by 2A and 3A respectfully.

 

So I would expect the newer to be 1/3 brighter than the older. But maybe they are both pushed to their limits and the only real difference is heat.

 

Does the newer one feel hottee or cooler after being on for 5 to 10 minutes?

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Stefano, I have a Fluke 83. How would you want me to hook it up?

 

The meter goes higher, that isn't the max.

Also, I used the other meter (UVA only) version for the previous tests yesterday, and the torches were distanced with that test, and the readings were also very similar.

I am fairly sure these are putting out almost the same amount of light. I have 4 of them, I have tried 3 of them, they all work the same.

I would show a beam test, but they look the same to me.

 

David, I have them set up and running now. I have attached thermocouples to each torch. I am recording the temperature with a Fluke dual temperature meter.

Will let you know.

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30 minutes, same for new, old slightly warmer, difference now is 8 F and 4.5 C.

OK, shut it down, ending difference was 6 F.

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Stefano, I have a Fluke 83. How would you want me to hook it up?

Done a quick search, it seems to be a multimeter, just like the one I have.

 

Set it on high current (it should go up to 10 A if I am not mistaken). Connect the LED assebly to your battery, maybe use jumper wires for that. Connect the multimeter in series, where you want, the position doesn't matter. This will give you the amount of current you are drawing from your battery, basically how much power (I*V) you are drawing. It should be the same for both LEDs. Tell me if this was clear enough.

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Of course, in series means that you have to complete the circuit with the multimeter. Otherwise you will short your battery. I say this to be sure you don't blow the fuse on your multimeter.
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