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UltravioletPhotography

More High Speed UVF


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Editor's Note: I split off StephanN's high speed UVF work from Adrian's topic where it was originally posted.

The previous link was UVF high speed - just for fun


 

 

I've also tried my hand at this sort of sculptures, though not aiming at recreating the milk-image. Of course, having done quite a bit of photos with ordinary drop-photos did help :smile: (http://www.photo-cha...ategory=tropfen )

 

My setup is a Canon 5DSR with Tamron Macro 180 f/3.5, UV-flash from Helling (apparently a modified Yongnuo-flash), camera and valves triggered with the famous GlimpseCatcher, flashes triggered from on-camera remote trigger. The fluorescent dye was bought on Amazon, I think. I didn't have any problems with blurred sculptures, as long as I had the flash below roughly 1/4 of maximum power.

 

However, I did increase the power deliberately for some "action"-shots.

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Here are the "action"-shots. They are, of course, a matter of taste, some people like them, some don't :smile:

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I think luminescence lifetimes are definitely affecting some of these images, especially the ones with droplets flying out from the central splash. You can see the droplet streak is bright at first but fades as the droplet travels through the air.

 

If one used a luminophore with a shorter lifetime but decent quantum yield (e.g. tris(bipyridyl) ruthenium, about 700 ns) one would get sharper images.

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Those are lovely! What produces the different colors in different parts of the drop?

 

Thanks. I am using three containers with different colours, so in the last photo for example I used green for the stem and blue and orange for the two umbrellas. The fact that all colours mix in the container explains why the stem is not fully green. In the very first photo I used magenta for the stem and magenta is powerful enough to make for a clear stem.

 

I think luminescence lifetimes are definitely affecting some of these images, especially the ones with droplets flying out from the central splash. You can see the droplet streak is bright at first but fades as the droplet travels through the air.

 

If one used a luminophore with a shorter lifetime but decent quantum yield (e.g. tris(bipyridyl) ruthenium, about 700 ns) one would get sharper images.

 

I am not so sure about this. I think that the flash at its highest power has a muuuuuuuuch longer flash, where the power shows an initial peak and a longish tail, which explains the droplet with the tail. You can see this effect here, where I did the same, but with milky water and no fluorescence: http://www.photo-chameleon.com/?phort_post=action . Of course, luminescence lifetime may enhance this effect.

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Andy Perrin
I gusss I don’t understand what I’m looking at. Are these composite images with several photos stacked on top of each other, each with a different dye?
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I gusss I don’t understand what I’m looking at. Are these composite images with several photos stacked on top of each other, each with a different dye?

 

Nono, I am using three containers, each equipped with an electric valve, in order to create these photos. All of them are strictly one exposure, no "cheating".

 

In the bottom basin the colours are naturally mixed, so when the first drops for the stem take some of that mixture up, this makes for a non-uniform stem.

 

The setup for controlling the thre valves and the camera and the lighting is somewhat complicated, but with a bit of practice, one can do it.

 

I did extensive trials with drops for my final assignment at the photo-academy, and now with my interest shifting from long-time and high-speed to uv and ir, I've taken this opportunity of combining all of them ������

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I am assuming your photos are in air with liquid pumped up or dropped from above and/or both.

 

Now that I have broken a bunch of quartz UVC lights (used up not cracked). I have thought to try UV in solution. Focusing on the side of the inverted seperated tube and image the mixing of solutions. Might be fun. Not sure yet how good optically imaging through a uvc bulb will be. But definitely can make some flow cells. I can see where the mercury has pooled, so I can safely disassemble them. Advantage of 254nm lights is that they are very low pressure to help isolate that 254nm line. So not too much worry separating one.

Problem with being so low pressure is its extremely easy to seperate one by just screwing it into a light fixture by the bulb, should allways hold the base. So easy to kill one.

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I am a big fan of droplet and splash photos! These are quite fascinating.

 

I am wondering if fluorescence can have a short "fade" time before it is declared to be phosphorescence? Yet another thing to google-click when time permits.

 

Ignore that remark! I forgot about spin being part of the definitions. Nevertheless, there seems to be a "fade" time involved with fluorescence.

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I am assuming your photos are in air with liquid pumped up or dropped from above and/or both.

 

Yes, the three containers are mounted roughly half a metre above the catch-basin, filled with differently coloured liquid and off go the drops; actually it's the valves which are half a metre above the basin, the containers are again half a metre higher.

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Do you have a photo of your rig? I'm still having trouble visualizing how it all works.

 

Sure. Not shown is the laptop used for triggering

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Andy Perrin
Ah, I finally get it now. I was imagining the basin had all the dyes in it already and the drops were clear water.
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Ah, I finally get it now. I was imagining the basin had all the dyes in it already and the drops were clear water.

 

Oh, I see. No, that wouldn't work properly. What one can observer, however, is how the initially clear water in the basin turns into a somewhat weird mixture, which is usually dominated by one of the colours. You can see this in these two examples, first clear water, so that the two pillars are clearly green and violet; and the second one after some time, where the basin is dominated by violet, contaminating the green pillar. Even though this makes for some interesting patterns, it is about time to change the water at this point.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Usually I don't like it much if the umbrella hits the water, but in case of reflections that's different. The photos still need to be processed a bit, but there are surprisingly few of the small droplets.

 

P.S.: Just received a dye which is explicitely "phosphorescing", so will soon try out if this does make a difference

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