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UltravioletPhotography

Introduction Greynomad (ian)


Greynomad

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Hello Everybody

Thank you for allowing me to join this excellent group.

 

I am a retired scientist (Biochemistry/Toxicology) living in SE Queensland Australia.

My interests in photography are landscape, nature, photomicroscopy, infrared, & ultraviolet including UVIVF.

My equipment is as follows:

Cameras:

Infrared modified cameras

Nikon D200 590nm

D200 650nm

D80 720nm

D200 850nm

UV camera

Nikon D5300 Full Spectrum

Lenses EL Nikkors 50mm f4, 50mm f2.8, 75mm f4, 80mm f5.6, 135mm f5.6

Hoya u360

Kodak IR cut off filter # 301

A project I am interested in is the UV photography including UVIVF of Wildflowers particularly orchids of the local area.

At present still sorting out usable techniques at home before attempting field images.

post-304-0-70153000-1590278555.jpg

post-304-0-81917500-1590278587.jpg

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Andy Perrin
Some lovely UVIVF there! If you want to do reflectography you might want to get some S8612 2mm next, to stack with the Hoya U360 and block the IR.
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Hi Ian

You are doing very well, keep to it.

I am not familiar with the Kodak Infrared Cut-Off Filter No. 301, can I see a transmittance chart please ?

Cheers

Col

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Hi Col

I cannot find a transmission chart for the Kodak 301, but it has been used to block infrared from a xenon lamp, I might try the filter with some of my infrared converted cameras to see the difference it makes to infrared images.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi Col

I cannot find a transmission chart for the Kodak 301, but it has been used to block infrared from a xenon lamp, I might try the filter with some of my infrared converted cameras to see the difference it makes to infrared images.

Cheers

Ian

 

Thanks Ian

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Hi and welcome to our UVP community. You certainly have arrive at the right spot, judged from your posted photos. Do keep up the good work.
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Beautiful shots. I envy you with the wonderful flowers you have in Australia. I feel very limited by the buttercups, vetches, spurges, dead nettles and so on that constitute our flora in the UK
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Welcome to the forum.

I look forward to seeing your photo microscopy images. Also wondering what you may have setup.

I now been playing with the idea of connecting a spectrometer to my microscope, to get the plane of light spectral variation. Still need controls to ensure the correct alignment.

 

Bernard, we all have fun and interesting flowers. Part of the fun is walking around to see what things I never thought would flower do and looking at them. Also odd little flowers and wild flowers around. Some times they are abount a couple millimeters.

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Yes, I have been doing a lot with tiny flowers like Cow Parsley, Pyracantha, Red Valerian, Woodruff, Dogwood, ... Trouble is that their petals move quite a lot which is a problem for my current project of full-colour UV. And you have to resort to macro with its minscule depth of field - and again that's a problem for tri-colour where focus stacking is not practicable. That's why I get excited with any flower that's over a centimetre across!
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Hi Bernard I can sympathies with you in regards to tiny flowers many of the local orchids are tiny fortunately not all. My first native orchid still not in the field from my own orchid house.

Geodorum densiflorum or Pink Nodding orchid

 

 

Same flower illuminated with convoy torch plus ZB2 filter about 1 min exposure? Olympus OMD 1 12-40mm F2.8 lens with uv/ir blocking filter on lens

post-304-0-30547200-1590406828.jpg

post-304-0-12751300-1590406861.jpg

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Thats great. I was going to recommend the microscope I got in January. But the cost has gone up an order of magnitude. I should have bought 2. One is going used for more than double what I paid new.

I have to be more careful now how I modify it.

Its the Swift 380T. The c-mount camera port works to attach a camera. I am now going to use one of the eye ports for a line out to a spectrometer.

But I will be doing more cell work with it using a 40x and 63x objectives in RMS that I bought.

 

Seems like the cost of many things is now increasing more than I expected. I guess with demand really low. The cost must go up to cover expense. Hard to find the desperate sellers to get rock bottom prices. And thats only used now.

 

What Olympus camera do you have?

Olympus generally have really weak UV blocking and can be used with your U360 filter and a S8612 2mm filter for UV photography.

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Hi Ian,

 

Welcome the group. Some information on the Kodak 301 filter here (sorry for the long link) - https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=3J-xjNousrsC&pg=SA7-PA121&lpg=SA7-PA121&dq=kodak+301+filter&source=bl&ots=4twyKQxuXt&sig=ACfU3U1cw05UYQaVj9lkv8O7emUf1AVPjA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwixmenik8_pAhWCYcAKHaSBD7IQ6AEwDnoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=kodak%20301%20filter&f=false

 

If the link doesn't work, search for 'kodak 301 filter' in google, and about the 5th one is the link to "The Infrared Handbook - page 7-121 Google books search result".

 

From the graph it looks to be a bit leaky in the 700-1000nm range (few percent), assuming that is the same as what you have. Given the sensitivity of digital sensors to IR, then it would definitely be worth getting some s8612. You'll find plenty of 'passionate' discussion on here around choice of IR blocking filters.

 

Jonathan

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Good spot Colin, I hadn't noticed that. Either way 301 looks a bit leaky in the IR. I'll keep an eye out for it in the UK, and buy it for testing if any comes up for sale here.
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Thanks for finding this Jonathan

There are two different Kodak 301 filters, see figures 7-74 & 7-75.

 

Both plots say the same thing. Look at the scale. Kodak 301 filter seems to be equal to a BG38 or Bg39 filter.

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Dabateman with regard to the Kyowa microscope it is a dissecting microscope , I also have A Seben and Bristol standard microscopes but mainly use the Kyowa for macroinvertebrates as I belong to a volunteer water watch group that monitors river health locally.

Which Olympus cameras are suitable for UV photography I have several mainly OMD 1 and 5 in both mark 1 & 2. It would be easy to mount one of my EL nikkor lenses with a readily available adapter, guess I have a steep learning curve ahead of me

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I have full spectrum converted Em1mk1, but before conversion was very sensitive to UV. After conversion with fused silica on the sensor, I can see down to 280nm, which is extremely hard to do.

I also have the Em5mk2, which is stock and is about 1/3 stop less sensitive to UV than the stock EM1mk1 was. But still very useful.

 

You should be able to handheld a UV shot with either using the EL 80mm Nikkor lens.

 

For added fun if you have the Sigma 30mm f2.8 lens art lens with smooth focus ring you can get AF UV. The Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro also is ok.

 

Since you have a U360 filter, you should just get a S8612 2mm filter and play around with them.

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Yes, the S8612 is the one to get, if you have U-360 2mm, then get S8612 1.5mm, 1.75mm, or 2mmm.

The 301 is just way too leaky, it will not give your UV only.

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Ian, If you only want to do UVIVF, UV induced visible fluoroescence, you only need a 'normal' visible light camera of any kind of your choice, no other filter needed.

cheers

Col

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Ian, If you only want to do UVIVF, UV induced visible fluoroescence, you only need a 'normal' visible light camera of any kind of your choice, no other filter needed.

cheers

Col

 

Well he did say:

I am interested in is the UV photography including UVIVF"

 

I take that to mean UV reflectance photography with his full spectrum Nikon and that U360 filter.

 

If you want to do UV induced fluorescence photography. Recent trick I have found to work exceptionally well is to go into the time composite mode on the EM series of cameras. This is a light painting mode and works amazingly well. Set it to 1/2 second or what ever has a mostly dark image for your subject. Then click the shutter. You want your first image to look black for most flowers. Start illuminating your subject with a bright UV flashlight. Only the new light gets recorded by the camera. So you can selectively paint whatever you want and see it form in real time on the back of the camera. It records just one final image with the Raw file even if it took you 10 minutes and 20 images to get your desired look. If you want to have person or live thing you can use a flash for the first image, the flash illuminates them, then have them drop out in the darkness and illuminat the background with dangerous UV. There are many different things you can do. It gives you upto 3 hours of record time to make it work. The new Em1mk3 allows for 6 hours. You could probably record a sun trail accross a landscape image with the Em1mk3 and a supper strong ND filter.

 

I don't know why Olympus doesn't call this Light painting mode. I had know Idea about how to properly use this until last month. Even though its on the Em1mk1 and above cameras.

Most people use it for star trails and car headlight shots. But it works to record any added light to your image.

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Thanks Dave

Interesting that camera mode for light painting.

 

The Kodak 301 is a coating & the examples in the google book 'The Infrared Handbook' are different glass substrates.

I have cropped & resized the two figures for you, they look very different to me......?

Also on eBay there are some Kodak 301a, I wonder what their differences are ?

post-31-0-08581900-1590481095.jpg

post-31-0-55341700-1590481257.jpg

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Colin, yes they look like 2 different filters to me too - the 301 seems to be the coating, so I suppose to know more about Ians filter we'd need to know not just that it is a Kodak 301, but what that is coated on to.
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Thanks Dave

Interesting that camera mode for light painting.

 

The Kodak 301 is a coating & the examples in the google book 'The Infrared Handbook' are different glass substrates.

I have cropped & resized the two figures for you, they look very different to me......?

Also on eBay there are some Kodak 301a, I wonder what their differences are ?

post-31-0-08581900-1590481095.jpg

post-31-0-55341700-1590481257.jpg

 

Still don't look different to me. Just read the scales. Both 10% transmission at 700nm, both have that 80% transmission dipp at about 590nm.

Nope same filter different x axis scale.

 

Don't know what "external transmission" is. Thats what is ploted on y-axis. Might include film sensitivity, which is why lower in the over 1000nm range for the second graph.

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