Affordable source for s8612 filter?

[Namestom]

Looking for s8612 in 52mm or 58mm. Looking to pay around $50. Thanks!

[eye4invisible]

If you're looking for genuine Schott glass, you're unlikely to find it in that size at that price.

[Namestom]

If you're looking for genuine Schott glass, you're unlikely to find it in that size at that price.

 

I'm close. On ebay there is a 52mm 2mm thick one for $84

[eye4invisible]

I'm close. On ebay there is a 52mm 2mm thick one for $84

 

You can buy one from uviroptics for USD 4.00 less: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=303352365713, but I doubt you will find one in the region of $50.

[Andy Perrin]

UVIRoptics is Cadmium on here. At least you can be sure it’s really Schott with him.

[Cadmium]

What it is being used for specifically matters. The thickness is always essential to use when it comes to stacks, make sure you choose the correct thickness for your use.

Schott makes S8612, and there are no other manufacturers making a matching equivalent.

The next best thing probably for blocking red/IR/700nm range/cutoff is BG39 which has the same cutoff as S8612 at the same thickness, but doesn't reach down and include as much UV bandwidth.

BG40 also works, but it doesn't cut red/IR/700nm as low or well, you need to use much thicker BG40 to make up, and then you will loose some UV also.

So, S8162 is the best to use for UV stacks, but again, make sure you get the best thickness to match up with what you are stacking it with.

If you want to use it for UV stacking, let me know what glass type and thickness you plan to stack it with, and I will advise.

 

Remember, S8612 is sensitive to climate, oxidation... so cleaning it with hydrogen peroxide and cleaning it with cerium oxide is important to maintain the longevity of the glass surface.

This can be said for the U type glasses also, and the other BG type glass as well (when I say "BG type" I mean, BG38, BG39, BG40, and S8612).

 

In almost all situations, except fine tuning and extreme situations, S8612 2mm thick will work well, and is versatile for so many stacks.

For UV stacks, depending on the U glass and thickness of that U glass used in the stack, S8612 1.5mm to 2mm works,

you really need to know the U glass type and thickness before you can pick out the specific thickness, but 2mm is usually the universal application thickness.

 

How about a graph?

[Namestom]

What it is being used for specifically matters. The thickness is always essential to use when it comes to stacks, make sure you choose the correct thickness for your use.

Schott makes S8612, and there are no other manufacturers making a matching equivalent.

The next best thing probably for blocking red/IR/700nm range/cutoff is BG39 which has the same cutoff as S8612 at the same thickness, but doesn't reach down and include as much UV bandwidth.

BG40 also works, but it doesn't cut red/IR/700nm as low or well, you need to use much thicker BG40 to make up, and then you will loose some UV also.

So, S8162 is the best to use for UV stacks, but again, make sure you get the best thickness to match up with what you are stacking it with.

If you want to use it for UV stacking, let me know what glass type and thickness you plan to stack it with, and I will advise.

 

Remember, S8612 is sensitive to climate, oxidation... so cleaning it with hydrogen peroxide and cleaning it with cerium oxide is important to maintain the longevity of the glass surface.

This can be said for the U type glasses also, and the other BG type glass as well (when I say "BG type" I mean, BG38, BG39, BG40, and S8612).

 

In almost all situations, except fine tuning and extreme situations, S8612 2mm thick will work well, and is versatile for so many stacks.

For UV stacks, depending on the U glass and thickness of that U glass used in the stack, S8612 1.5mm to 2mm works,

you really need to know the U glass type and thickness before you can pick out the specific thickness, but 2mm is usually the universal application thickness.

 

How about a graph?

 

I have a UG11 2mm filter. I'm looking at either s8612 2mm or BG39 3mm. Thanks!

[Cadmium]

UG11 is one of THE most expensive types of glass, it costs over twice as much as Hoya U-340 which is the closest equivalent to UG11.

So NOTE: If UG11 is cheap, then it is most likely not real Schott UG11. Even if it is not cheap... indeed...

It could be Chinese or Hoya U-340, but at least if it is Hoya U-340 it will work nice at 2mm.

Not saying your filter isn't real UG11, just reminding that real UG11 is the most expensive filter glass, in most cases people will use U-340 instead when using that thickness,

because U-340 actually has a little stronger peak UV amplitude. Keeping in mind that the S8612/BG39 is going to truncate the peak UV transmission of the U glass used.

For this graph I am showing Schott UG11.

This compares UG11 2mm stacked with S8612 2mm or BG39 2mm, both stacks calculated to have OD5 suppression. Using 1.5mm of either S8612 or BG39 will move the suppression to about OD4.

 

[Namestom]

UG11 is one of THE most expensive types of glass, it costs over twice as much as Hoya U-340 which is the closest equivalent to UG11.

So NOTE: If UG11 is cheap, then it is most likely not real Schott UG11. Even if it is not cheap... indeed...

It could be Chinese or Hoya U-340, but at least if it is Hoya U-340 it will work nice at 2mm.

Not saying your filter isn't real UG11, just reminding that real UG11 is the most expensive filter glass, in most cases people will use U-340 instead when using that thickness,

because U-340 actually has a little stronger peak UV amplitude. Keeping in mind that the S8612/BG39 is going to truncate the peak UV transmission of the U glass used.

For this graph I am showing Schott UG11.

This compares UG11 2mm stacked with S8612 2mm or BG39 2mm, both stacks calculated to have OD5 suppression. Using 1.5mm of either S8612 or BG39 will move the suppression to about OD4.

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153462684525

 

That's the filter I got, now you have me doubting what I bought. So if it is really ug11, s8612 at 1.5mm would be the go to? Would it hurt to purchase the 2mm instead? Thanks for your 2 cents

[Namestom]

UG11 is one of THE most expensive types of glass, it costs over twice as much as Hoya U-340 which is the closest equivalent to UG11.

So NOTE: If UG11 is cheap, then it is most likely not real Schott UG11. Even if it is not cheap... indeed...

It could be Chinese or Hoya U-340, but at least if it is Hoya U-340 it will work nice at 2mm.

Not saying your filter isn't real UG11, just reminding that real UG11 is the most expensive filter glass, in most cases people will use U-340 instead when using that thickness,

because U-340 actually has a little stronger peak UV amplitude. Keeping in mind that the S8612/BG39 is going to truncate the peak UV transmission of the U glass used.

For this graph I am showing Schott UG11.

This compares UG11 2mm stacked with S8612 2mm or BG39 2mm, both stacks calculated to have OD5 suppression. Using 1.5mm of either S8612 or BG39 will move the suppression to about OD4.

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153462684525

 

That's the filter I got, now you have me doubting what I bought. So if it is really ug11, s8612 at 1.5mm would be the go to? Would it hurt to purchase the 2mm instead? Thanks for your 2 cents

[dabateman]

That ebay listing says Ug11, but provided a graph for U340 and the filter seems to be labeled U340.

So its either ZWB1, which I suspect at that price or Hoya U340.

 

I would buy the S8612 2mm. It can stack with any other filter combination.

[ulf]

I would buy the S8612 2mm. It can stack with any other filter combination.

That is my recommendation too.

With 2mm you'll need to increase the exposure time 2-3%, but gain ten times more IR suppression.

Selecting a thinner S8612 than 2mm only makes sense if you are building an optimised filter stack to be glued with a very well defined U- or UG glass type.

[Cadmium]

Namestom, no mater what it is, S8612 2mm will work with it. It may not have the exact plot as the graph I made above, but it will most likely suppress any red/IR you would get from the 2mm U thickness.

At 2mm thick, I doubt the U glass will have any visual range leak either.

[Namestom]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233486889384

Thoughts on this?

[nfoto]

It acts more or less similar to U-360, ie. with a massive IR leak. The "Wood's filter" 18A or its relative 18b (delivered with the original UV-Nikkor) is pre-digital filter designed for film.

[Nisei]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153462684525

That's the filter I got...

You paid $999?

[Andy Perrin]

Even weirder, that filter says "Hoya U-340" on the side...

[Cadmium]

Wow a full screen shot of an eBay listing!

I don't know how the listing above relates to the listing posted by Namestom. It doesn't. He posted an ad about an older Wratten 18A filter, those are not exactly the same as anything made today.

Second, The price on the listing you posted is not real, it is either a typo or some kind of marketing gimmick I am unaware of.

Third, I rather doubt the filter screen shot you posted is UG11 or U-340, I have strong suspicions, my educated guess.

Be careful what you buy.

[Cadmium]

OK, I will see about S8612 AR, but it will cost an arm and a leg compared to the non AR stuff. S8612 is the most expensive of the BG type glass to begin with.

[dabateman]

Sadly I clicked that link. Now I get ebay alerts if I am still interested.

 

Might just be a small business compensation for the current low sales?

 

[Andy Perrin]

I guess if the demand is finite but the supply is near zero, then the algorithm gets a little wonky. Do you guys know the story of the 24 million dollar book on Amazon?

https://www.wired.com/2011/04/amazon-flies-24-million/

[bvf]

Well we've seen how people are subject to panic buying, so I'm surprised nobody bought the book at $23.7M thinking it was going to become even more expensive. And of course buying the second copy just in case ...

[SteveE]

I have read that when some vendors are out of stock on an item, they adjust the price way up so no one will bid. Supposedly, the eBay fees are less than deleting the listing and re-listing it when it is again available. I read this in the internet, so it must be true.

 

You can always trust what you read on the internet:

Abraham Lincoln