Anaglyph UV with 1.6mm and 2mm shimmed 12.5mm F12 Panasonic lens

[dabateman]

I have been modifying my Panasonic 12.5mm F12 lens again as it is not usable in its standard configuration. This is also my first attempt at using the Anaglyph 3D making software. Which I think I may have failed. So I am posting to see if others can see this in 3D using glasses if they have them. I still want to cross my eyes. I am not sure if I have the separation correct.

 

This is the 2mm shimmed split photo:

 

This is the anaglyph 2mm UV photo:

 

This is 1.6mm shimmed split photo:

 

The anaglyph 1.6mm photo:

 

A zoom in section 1:1 from the anaglyph photo:

 

 

A UV/visible 1.6 mm shimmed split photo:

 

The anaglyph version 1:1

 

The full anaglyph version:

[bvf]

Glad to see you're getting results, Dave.

 

The shots described as "This is the anaglyph 2mm UV photo:" and "The anaglyph 1.6mm photo:" work OK for me. The shot "The full anaglyph version:" works but strains my aged eyes.

 

The shots described as "A zoom in section 1:1 from the anaglyph photo:" and "The anaglyph version 1:1" don't work well for me.

[colinbm]

Hi Dave

I can see them with the anaglyph glasses OK, but the sharper images are easier.

Probably just not the best subject for anaglyph ?

col

[dabateman]

Ok interesting,

I may have pushed the image too far back behind the screen. I was following a tutorial on the software, and have the hardest time obviously at that step.

I just cross my eyes and see it works at all levels.

 

Too bad the 1:1 don't work. That to me was the whole point. I will have to think about it.

My steps were to take a High resolution shot in stock Em5mk2.

Cut the jpeg in section left and right.

Open in stereo photo maker.

Auto aign.

Then push back from the screen in anaglyph.

Then save the image.

I then cropped in Infran viewer a 1:1 section using 1024 pixels wide.

Other images are just resized to 1024 pixels wide.

 

If the 1:1 aren't working. Then I might just try to leave the default setting or push a little forward. Then crop a one to 1:1 so you can see details.

 

I think I have decided that the 1.6mm shim is better. 2mm doesn't include enough overlap. So you loose the amount in stereo. But 2mm would work for a small flower. This thing was big and dry sadly by the time I got to it.

[bvf]

It probably is an issue with registratrion of the two images. Do you want to post them (or the original double image) and I'll see if I can get anything out of them?

[bvf]

Time to dump your Panasonic toy stereo lens - this is what you need:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35MM-35-3-5-STEREO-NIKKOR-FOR-NIKON-RANGEFINDER-cks-200000/383264958318?hash=item593c5f276e:g:MkgAAOSwti5clTJO

[dabateman]

Time to dump your Panasonic toy stereo lens - this is what you need:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/35MM-35-3-5-STEREO-NIKKOR-FOR-NIKON-RANGEFINDER-cks-200000/383264958318?hash=item593c5f276e:g:MkgAAOSwti5clTJO

 

I wonder how you would mount that on a nikon camera with the huge dorsal fin on the back? It may also block my nikon to m43rds adapter. Then there is the decimal point in the wrong position of the price tag.

Truely an odd lens.

[bvf]

The fin does make it look odd. But the ad says it's for a rangefinder Nikon - so no mirror to snag the fin. I guess the fin reaches right back to just before the focal plane to provide shielding between the L and R images.

 

The price tag is breathtaking. Be interesting to see if it ever gets sold at that price.