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UltravioletPhotography

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Just been to Sicily on holiday. On the flight into Catania, I tried taking a few stereo shots in IR.

 

First some clouds - the first shot is for red/cyan anaglyph spectacles, and then there is a pair if you prefer the cross-eye approach.

 

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And here is a view over Catania to Mount Etna:

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Great 3D from the sky, Bernard.

I just 2 days ago adjusted my Panasonic 12.5mm to 2mm using brass washers and taped it up. So should be able to take more UV 3D images. I still need to learn the 3D software you recommended. So I can post zoomed in high resolution shots from the Em5mk2 in cyan/red. Its still fun to just cross my eyes and see things live on the back screen in 3D.

 

I hope your holiday was great.

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Hi, David. Looking forward to seeing your 3D results - still not quite sure how it works with such a small separation between the lenses.

 

BTW, I received my 3 UV colour separation filters yesterday and got to work on them immediately. It all works really well! Sensitivity of the camera/lens around 320nm is a lot better than I had hoped for - exposures are "only" about 110 (flash) to 135 (daylight) times longer than through a Baader U. I had been contemplating factors in the 000's. I'll post an article and example results when I've done the investigation and got a selection of images.

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Sorry I was not clear. The lens seperation I didn't modify. I just increased the macro distance from my previous 1mm shimm to 2mm shim, so that now I can bring the lens physically closer to the subject in UV.

 

You are using 110 to 135 flashes? Am I reading that correctly? I hope you have goggles. What exposure time do you need to trigger that many flashes?

 

You may want to get a ExoTerra UVB bulb. It will significantly help illuminate your subject. The draw back is its not portable.

 

Also do a test with a 2A, or visible Long pass filter over the 315bp25 filter. I worry that you may be seeing IR. My 313bp25 filter leaks enough that I must stack it with the 330WB80 improved filter.

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No. I undertood what you were doing - just don't understand how a camera with such close lenses can give a good stereo image.

 

No, I didn't use 100+ flashes!I just ramped up the ISO. Gave very grainy results, of course, but not that noticeable when overlaid with better quality images from the other filters. When I get beyond the initial proof of concept, I'll probably go for a mix of higher (but not ridiculous) ISO + small number of multiple flashes to get better quality. Also the factor of 110-135 is relative to the Baader U, which is not used to create the false colour images - although you might want a Baader U image just for comparison with the false colour image. If you compare the 315BP25 with the 380BP25 the factor is in the range 40-50.

 

I'm confident I don't have any IR or visible leakage with the 315BP25:

  • It claims to provide OD 6 blocking. If I was using exposure times of 10s of minutes this might not be enough, but it should be OK for exposures of 10s of seconds (f/8, daylight)
  • Also, the image has all the characteristics of UV rather than IR or visible (e.g. white paint & plastic look dark, dark vegetation).
  • I tried putting a U340 in front of it - this dimmed the image slightly (as you would expect) but didn't kill it (as would have happened with an IR image).
  • I also tried putting an R72 IR-pass in front of the 315BP25 filter, and this did kill the image, so indicating the image is not being formed in the IR.
  • If I put a UV/IR-cut filter in front the image is killed, indicating that the image is not being formed in the visible region.

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Wow, Bernard, I just love these anaglyph photos. Yes I have the anaglyph glasses.

The one of Catania to Mount Etna looks like a little model town...

Cheers

Col

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I just 2 days ago adjusted my Panasonic 12.5mm to 2mm using brass washers and taped it up. So should be able to take more UV 3D images. I still need to learn the 3D software you recommended. So I can post zoomed in high resolution shots from the Em5mk2 in cyan/red. Its still fun to just cross my eyes and see things live on the back screen in 3D.

David, Please learn to produce your images in anaglyph too, as I can't get my head into cross eyed vision....:-(

Col

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Glad I always have a set of red/cyan glasses handy. Nice depth in the clouds. The detail/depth in the Catania shot is great, but Mt Etna really flattens out in the distance. Thanks for posting!
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Thanks, Gary.

 

It's inevitable that the distance flattens out - although you can see the differwences in elevation in the terrain in front of Etna. If there had been enough separation between images to show Etna in 3D, the foreground would have been unviewable.

 

I saw your IR pictures about the elevated park. They're wonderful and you've achieved a brilliance and contrast that I am failing to get. You mentioned you used Nik (Silver Effex, I think). Can you give more detail of which options/settings you used?

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Thanks, Gary.

 

It's inevitable that the distance flattens out - although you can see the differwences in elevation in the terrain in front of Etna. If there had been enough separation between images to show Etna in 3D, the foreground would have been unviewable.

 

I saw your IR pictures about the elevated park. They're wonderful and you've achieved a brilliance and contrast that I am failing to get. You mentioned you used Nik (Silver Effex, I think). Can you give more detail of which options/settings you used?

 

Your 3D images are perfect, just the way they are!

Thank you for your high praise on the elevated park images! Yes, I use Silver Efex for bw conversion.

I'll give you a detailed response in the elevated park post.

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