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UltravioletPhotography

Editing colors on a Hoya R72


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So, I did a very light editing on this infrared test photo.

It is obviously not a award winning composition and frame, but I am curious about the overall impression of everyone on colors and white balance.

 

Thanks!

 

 

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I like the teal green and white together with just a touch of warmth in the bark. Nice!

Was it a channel swap?

 

 

Typically we list what gear was used to make the photo.

This helps provide context for more informed comments and help when there is a question.

For example:

Nikon D610 + UV-Nikkor + R715nm IR-Pass Filter

f/8 for 1/250" @ ISO-100

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Ah, OK:

 

Sony NEX-7 "full spectrum" + Samyang 35mm f2.8 + Hoya R72.

f/5.6 for 1/160 @ ISO-100, Exp.Comp +2 EV

 

Processing: channel swap (blue-red swap) + White balance based on the leaves and changing the contrast curve just a little to make the tree trunk darker :D

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eye4invisible

I like the teal green and white together with just a touch of warmth in the bark. Nice!

That touch of warmth looks like an IR hotspot to me, which is odd for an aperture of f/5.6.

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That touch of warmth looks like an IR hotspot to me, which is odd for an aperture of f/5.6.

 

It can be since the Samyang 35mm f2.8 is "kind of" a clone of the Sony 35mm f2.8 that is famous to have IR hotspot.

I can try with another lenses to see if that warmth goes away. Thanks! :D

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I'm not sure I'm seeing a strong hotspot. The tree trunk/branches on the right is more in the sun. There might still be some vignetting (as in natural light fall off) at f/5.6?

 

Shoot at a plain background to check for hotspot.

 

I've always liked the Hoya R72 for IR. It has just enough false colour for me. :smile:

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Looks like the lens has a mild tendency to make a hot spot. f/5.6 suffices to display such issue, with ease if the lens is affected.
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I have to agree with Birna, seems to be a hot spot happening in the center on the tree bark mostly.

It is hard to see, but when I 'reverse engineered' your photo (un-swapping it, and running auto-levels in Photoshop),

the center color on the bark is easy to see.

My basic process is usually like this: White Balance from RAW file (or in camera if you want), save to tiff file, load tiff to Photoshop, then do channel swap.

Run auto-levels to see how that looks, good/bad/decide.

Adjust at will...

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Now I begin to see it! It appeared to me more like natural light on that area of the tree.

 

If using an app like Photo Ninja, the red slider could be turned off and the hot area would be less obvious.

 

Red On

post-268-0-01455800-1566497637pnRedOn01.jpg

 

 

Red Off

post-268-0-01455800-1566497637pn01.jpg

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If using an app like Photo Ninja, the red slider could be turned off and the hot area would be less obvious.

 

Cool, interesting. But first I will try to test my other lenses to see if it is a hotspot so I can choose my "go to" lens :D

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I have a CLUT to do the job for me... if you search the forum you can find it and download it.

My go to lens on NEX-6 was the 18-55mm kitlens. Good quality and no hot spot. The 16-50mm kitlens has terrible hot spot, not recommended.

 

Also the FE50mm f1.8 is useable in UV ;)

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I have a CLUT to do the job for me... if you search the forum you can find it and download it.

My go to lens on NEX-6 was the 18-55mm kitlens. Good quality and no hot spot. The 16-50mm kitlens has terrible hot spot, not recommended.

 

Also the FE50mm f1.8 is useable in UV ;)

 

Ah! That is great to know since I have the FE50mm f1.8 :D

I will try this one. Thanks!

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