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UltravioletPhotography

Should Dust filter be removed from converted cameras?


Mark Jones

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for those that convert their own cameras do you reinstall the dust sensor glass? Seems like it's just another potential UV blocker. All it does is shake so dust falls off.

 

This is for a EOS M3 mirrorless I am thinking of converting. I have not seen any people in this forum use the EOS M, maybe because it has so few native lenses. but many UV lenses have to be modified to fit a different mount anyways. so not a big deal to me. if you do keep it any recommendatons for where to buy replacement thin glass or silica/quarts that transmits uv well?

 

 

canon-m3-infrared-conversion-tutorial-25.jpg

https://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/life-pixel-canon-m3-diy-digital-infrared-conversion-tutorial

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Canon integrates the UV/IR-cut into their dust sharer windows:

https://www.ultravio...dpost__p__17625

If you find a suitable UV-transmitting replacement window that might help protect the image sensor's surface from dust.

There are several different lens mount adapters available for the Canon EOS M-line. I have the EOS EF to EOS-M, The Canon FD to EOS-M and a M42 to EOS-M.

 

I had an idea of converting an EOS1M to full spectrum and have all parts, but have not had the time or access to a cleanroom.

It is very important that you do some parts of the conversion in a really clean environment to avoid getting small dust particles at the wrong surfaces.

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Mark:

 

The screws indicated in step 22 in Lifepixel's modification description are the focus plane adjustment screws.

They are sitting in a chosen calibrated hight.

If they are not reinstalled to make the sensor sitting in the same angle referred to the lens mount the focus will be off in some area of the image.

The absolute hight is calibrated to the dust shaker and blue filter.

If you only aim at macro this is not that important, but otherwise there might be some problem reaching infinity with some lenses.

To keep the camera well functioning with original EOS-M lenses this must be handled with some care.

 

When I modified my Canon EOS 60D I used a digital calipher and measured the heights of well chosen surfaces at the sensor assembly against the camera's internal chassis.

I also counted turns when unscrewing the screws and marked the screw heads with a sharpie before, to be able to return them to the same angle when reassembling the camera.

 

This is more important when modifying a DSLR than a mirrorless camera, but still valid to some extent.

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Mark, let me warn you that converting your own camera can be tricky. I used to be intrepid about it. I've opened up D200, D300, D700 successfully. Then I fried two D7000s in a row. And also damaged a Panasonic Lumix G. And I was using grounding bracelet and mat to work on. I have a nice tool set for the screws and ribbons. But I broke a ribbon on the G. And somehow damaged those D7000s.

 

The one thing which is difficult for the do-it-yourselfer is the adjustment of flange focal distance. However I will add that the retail converters have been known to occasionally get that slightly wrong also. :) Ulf's instructions on this are quite useful.

 

To replace the dust shaker glass does involve a lot of undoing of the wiring/soldering. It is time consuming and very easy to damage that stuff. This is why most retail converters simply remove the dust shakers. Take care!

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This link pointed out some essential details I found useful when converted my Canon EOS 60D:

http://www.ir-photo.net/ir_550dmod.html

 

Some dust shakers are piezo-elements that are integrated on the shaker window.

They are difficult to separate from that window and graft onto the new one. I didn't even try.

The flange focus distance needed can be calculated if you know the refractive index and thicknesses of the windows.

Fortunately the adjustments are performed after the really dust-sensitive steps when the sensor assembly is back in place, but you have to disassemble many parts again if you do not get it right the first time.

I think that professional converters sometimes do this adjustment against their customers lenses to make them work despite any focus-shift.

If macro is the only usage and infinity focus is not needed only the non angled adjustment is of some importance as the lens is extended anyhow.

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I queried Kolari about converting my Olympus EM5-II, and asked specifically about the dust shaker. The Olympus full spectrum conversion section on their web site says they retain the dust reduction system. They said that they believe the dust shaker has to remain for proper function of this camera.
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I queried Kolari about converting my Olympus EM5-II, and asked specifically about the dust shaker. The Olympus full spectrum conversion section on their web site says they retain the dust reduction system. They said that they believe the dust shaker has to remain for proper function of this camera.

 

Thats interesting. I was thinking about getting an Em5mk2 converted. But if that is true it will limit the UVB range significantly.

Although I think Eaasa, the person in New York sells a full spectrum Em5mk2 without the dust shaker. So I am not sure if its needed. But I would trust Kolari.

My Em1mk1 didn't need the dust shaker.

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I know cameras can get damaged, but I'm only going to work on cameras worth $300 or less used. So if they are destroyed it will not be that bad financially
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