"We will paint them red..." (с)

[Ninjin]

Cadmium,

 

Yes, the same stack, Eka created. I just repeated from the same glass.

Three glasses glued together on the edge.

My samples with total thickness 6 and 9 mm. Still very thick. If the one glass will 1 mm, it probably will good, but I do not have such thin samples.

 

White balance in Nx-D - sunlight. Without post processing. This is the same as from the camera.

Yes, need to try again with a gray card, thank you very much!

[Ninjin]

Eka,

I just very liked the 'red' color on the conifers, on your photos with your stack.

 

That's why I started trying your method.

In the photo, I compared your file, with one my test of filters for to simulate aerochrome (this test with leaves) .

 

If I do some processing, it seems to me, that it will be close for the imitation. No red color of things to 'yellow' anyway, although.

 

But the color of the sky and the color of coniferous trees can be obtained quite good, probably.

I would guess, this stack, in the bright places of the trees does not 'highlight in white'. I would like this effect for some purposes.

But I'm not sure if it is, I need to wait for the leaves and to see what it will be.

[Cadmium]

This is not about processing.

Don't do any processing. We want to see what these look like SOOC (Straight out of camera). If you want to adjust the contrast, OK, but leave everything alone, white balance in camera, don't process the photo.

 

I must say how immaculately the edges and corners of those Russian filters are beveled!

 

Filters should not touch, must be air gaped or actually glued/laminated.

Mount filters in separate frames/rings, screw together, no glass touching.

 

glass touching causes Newton Rings:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton%27s_rings

[Ninjin]

Cadmium,

 

Yes, I understood you. I'll do what you said, about the balance, when the sun comes.

 

 

But in this test comparison, I said not about the balance.

I try to show the difference, by this example,

what I'm doing this for:

 

The stack does not give a white color in the highlights of leaves.

I do not see it, on the test of Eka, nowhere, with any balance.

 

I tried to do this effect before, with all the filters I have, and I could not do it.

What do you think?

 

 

The rings, yes, you're right, but this is just for a quick test.

[ulf]

Filters should not touch, must be air gaped or actually glued/laminated.

Mount filters in separate frames/rings, screw together, no glass touching.

 

glass touching causes Newton Rings:

https://en.wikipedia...ewton%27s_rings

 

Mounting in separate rings is not very efficient spacewise and the stack is quite thick already.

IMHO a shorter spacer material and taping will be quite enough.

 

I often use parts of Post-It as temporary spacers.

By cutting a suitable shapes of the sticky area and using one or a few layers of them often work very well.

[Cadmium]

That will work fine also, as long as the glass is not touching, one could even just put a layer of tape on the edges to separate the glass from touching.

[Cadmium]

Cadmium,

 

Yes, I understood you. I'll do what you said, about the balance, when the sun comes.

 

 

But in this test comparison, I said not about the balance.

I try to show the difference, by this example,

what I'm doing this for:

 

The stack does not give a white color in the highlights of leaves.

I do not see it, on the test of Eka, nowhere, with any balance.

 

I tried to do this effect before, with all the filters I have, and I could not do it.

What do you think?

 

 

The rings, yes, you're right, but this is just for a quick test.

 

Sorry, I think I was confused and misunderstood. I thought you were adjusting things to make the result look different.

 

I am not sure what tho think or say about Eka's highlights.

Shadows and such in the foreground seem to look like it is almost overcast, however the distant object and sky don't appear to be overcast.

 

Ulf is right about the glass, any small thin separation between the glass will prevent Newton Rings. Post-It, tape, cardboard...

[Cadmium]

I would start by finding some evergreen foliage, and green grass, shoot those in sunshine, white balance in camera.

There is no new green deciduous foliage here yet either. The few deciduous trees and shrubs in my 729 photos look brown.

The fir trees and other evergreen in my shots look red and don't seem to have much sunlit white highlights, however if you look at the grass in the foreground you see some white highlights on the grass.

I am not sure I would expect of even want these 729 shots to match the look of processed #12 shots. For one thing, I have never really liked the white highlights of processed #12 shots that much.

We should expect there will be differences between 729 type shots and #12 type shots and real EIR/Aerochrome film shots.

This is a whole other thing.

Best thing to do is find some green foliage, white balance in camera, for now, and then wait for summer to bring a wider selection of foliage to compare with.

 

[Ninjin]

Cadmium

 

Ok, yes, you are right.

I need to try later. I like the color on your photo, especially on the grass.

[dabateman]

Eka,

If you don't have a white paper or grey card, you can try with an Olympus camera to white balance off the grass. I know that is counter intuitive. But for some reason it worked better for me and it and the trees still came out red.

My Chinese GRB3 came and it maybe cutting the IR a little more than proper KG3 does.

I actually got really good results that I like using the Lee 183 filter.

[Cadmium]

David, I don't think I have tried #183. The #183 graph is somewhat similar to Hoya B-410. B-410 tends to be a bit more orange.

Do you have an example using #183?

 

 

[ins13]

I'm back :)

 

Cadmium, I couldn't find the WhiBal and Kromatex, I used this one:

 

SOOC, resize only, white balance from the grey card

cloudy

 

 

sunny

 

I like this red color more and more. Cadmium, thank you so much for your help with white balance.

but the sky is not blue still(

 

 

Evgeniya, I don't see 'highlight in white' in my pictures..

 

 

dabateman, I often do white balance off the grass for "white" infrared shots. I never would have thought of trying that for the "red" pictures :) That's interesting! i will try it definitely. But luckily I found the gray card.

[Cadmium]

Eka, In your one pic with the blue sky, it looks about the same blue as the sky in thye pic I posted.

Your stack seems to b e working about the same as the 729 I am using.

 

I think Evgeniya was saying that your pics don't have the white highlights, but #12 processed (and others) do have the white highlights.

[ins13]

Cadmium, I confirmed only that I didn't see white highlights, yes

 

a little processing

 

 

and experiment. twilight, after sunset

 

[Cadmium]

Nice pics.

You might see the white highlights if you shot some grass in direct sunshine, close enough. See blades of grass in cat pic:

http://www.ultraviol...dpost__p__26433

[ins13]

Thank you!! :)

I will shoot closer when the grass will grow up. I'm interested...

 

[Cadmium]

Cool building, nice shot.

[ins13]

Thank you!! This is an old monastery building :)

Church buildings always look good in the frame. so I often take pictures of them

[Cadmium]

David, Do you have an example of the #183?

[dabateman]

Cadmium,

I wasn't monitoring this thread, so I didn't see your question til now. I still have an over cast sky, no blue and no sun.

 

However here are some images:

 

The green area photographed. Interestingly using just the 2mm thick GRB3 filter on the full spectrum converted EM1 and my WB preset set up using my Baader venus U filter, has what is the best back to normal I have seen for my EM1. So I am happy with this image.

 

I didn't set WB in camera using the #183. But I did play with the the CWB settings, dialing in the following.

 

2mm GRB3 with Lee #183, using CWB setting 5600K:

 

2mm GRB3 with Lee #183, using CWB setting 7800K:

 

 

2mm GRB3 with Lee #183, using CWB setting 14000K:

 

 

Eka, Here is a non-intuitive test I did for fun. Setting a WB preset off grass using 2mm GRB3 with Lee #727 filter:

 

This is the 2mm GRB3 with Lee #727 using CWB 14000 for comparison:

 

The #727 filter really shows off the dead grass in the front of the photo, interesting.

[Cadmium]

David, thanks.

You should try custom white balance, gray card, compare to grass if you want, but would be nice if we were all comparing some standard.

Use CWB for each individual filter, using the same WB target, per scene/weather conditions. Mixing up WB and filters and numbers is no way to compare things.

[dabateman]

Cadmium.

Really, I need the sun to come out and give me a blue sky so I can see if the Aqua sky color, I was getting without a weak IR blocker is gone.

When I tested these on an overcast day, I went through a whole bunch of the Lee filters and dialled in a CWB I liked. Some shot at same CWB. Then at the end of the set I wondered if I could just get a good WB off grass like I usually do with a greater than 700nm filter. I was surprised it worked, and as you can see from the last two images, better than the max CWB setting you can dial in on an Olympus camera.

What I need is first a blue sunny day. Then test if the GRB3 really is weak, compare it to my BG38. But this may not matter generally for others as we know with Chinese glass, it will be hard for someone to get the same glass I got.

 

Think I like yellowish, orangish colors more than pure red. The #183 with CWB 7800 is my favorite. But, the red really does show off the dead grass.

[Ninjin]

I wondered, if add more suppression for IR only, in such stack, or for Scuba Blue,

can it give more blue color to the sky, or not?

 

Eka,

what if for this stack using kind of CSC25 instead of CSC24? It is too much probably, but if, may be only as a try.

Or maybe, if add more thickness for CSC24.

I would like to try something.

[Cadmium]

Try using ЖЗС10 instead of ЖЗС5, see if that changes the sky color.

[Ninjin]

Cadmium,

I can not.. I do not have such a sample. Probably, ЖЗС10 can do it, yes,

but I mean - as in the example of David Twede:

 

With IR block for Scuba Blue, the color is more blue, and without IR block, the color is more turquoise.

This means that adding of the IR block only - probably changes the blue-green part to the gradient?

Then, I do not need to move more in to blue part to the dark blue -

I need to press on the IR a bit, and it will move a bit in the 'green to blue' part. But I'm not sure, if it is or not.