Jump to content
UltravioletPhotography

Kolarivision IR Chrome 'Aerochrome' filter


GaryR

Recommended Posts

The green filters don't work for me, perhaps with the Foveon sensor, don't know. Best filter to use for post processing would be #12 or other longpass yellow/orange range, basically a 'minus blue' filter.
Link to comment
Almost in my samsung, yes, but with adjustments. This is the only way to get red foliage and sky green/blue. If not, the sky is white and the foliage is like orange

post-265-0-93354400-1566513873.jpg

post-265-0-28175900-1566513920.jpg

post-265-0-12784800-1566514140.jpg

Link to comment

The green filters don't work for me, perhaps with the Foveon sensor, don't know.

 

 

Sigma firmware gets seriously weird when fed data outside the normal envelope of expectations. I remember slapping a #12 on an SD14--and it killed the green channel in the resulting image. Go figure.

Link to comment

All taken this summer with the Sony a7R/75mm el Nikkor and IR Chrome filter. After CWB on a gray card, I played around with the in-camera color adjustment to reduce the overall reddish cast. Foliage tends to be anywhere from yellow-orange to red, depending on the angle of light. For processing I mainly use Pro Contrast in DxO NIK.

 

The streetcar shot was taken through UV-blocking car windshield, which resulted in an overall blue image with muted reds. Pro contrast brought it back to life.

post-189-0-09886300-1566764881.jpg

 

401 highway travellers

post-189-0-22091000-1566764889.jpg

 

Lake Erie beach

post-189-0-75828300-1566764894.jpg

 

t-birds at local outdoor car display

post-189-0-03719100-1566764903.jpg

 

Sifton bog boardwalk

post-189-0-60324000-1566764927.jpg

 

grass in peat soil of bog

post-189-0-71783600-1566764940.jpg

Link to comment

That red TTC car and red traffic light look red to me. That tree in the background looks slightly orange all in your first shot. Reminds me of my Lee 183 with GRB3 filter. The Suba would definitely be more red.

Thank you for the update.

Link to comment

Thanks Steve! Orange foliage is the main feature of this filter, but I like it as a creative tool.

 

David, The TTC car is indeed red. Unlike Aerochrome processing, or my Sigma foveon quasi-aerochrome images, cars and painted objects remain the same with IR Chrome filter.

Link to comment

Here is a B410 + KG3 shot.

Although there is not a lot of cars and other-than-foliage items in this shot, the house and small truck, and shed, etc. all remain fairly the same colors as they would look in a visual shot.

 

post-87-0-97092500-1566854329.jpg

Link to comment

Great shots Steve! Interesting how all the details disappear in the UV shot. That truck is hilarious !! :lol:

Whether I'm going for aerochrome or any color IR shot, I try to get a variety to tones in the foliage. Little or no reds in the IR Chrome filter, but lots of yellow to deep brown tones, that can be recovered with a bit of processing.

Link to comment

David, do you mean that all of the cars are the same color as shot in visual?

 

I haven't photographed cars using the 183 and GRB3 stack so don't know. I was just referring to the IR chrome image Gary has.

I lived in Toronto for 6 years so know the TTC cars are red. Gary results with the others whom have purchased this filter seem to show that it doesn't provide the red foliage or the yellow lights as expected.

Link to comment

Well, we knew from the first examples that Yann posted on various sites and Kolari site that it was not actual EIR transposition. There is no way it could be without post processing.

So don't expect yellow from red.

The idea behind this and other stacks like the 729 stack is simply to suppress visual red, and leave the visual red Bayer open to IR only, and preferably the lower IR range which has a higher Bayer sensitivity to red

(thus the use of KG3 for attenuating the IR range to the lower part of the IR range).

Unfortunately, the Hoya B-410 doesn't suppress red enough to remove it entirely. Thus the red channel is still a mix or visual red and not suppressed in the correct range to remove everything.

729 works better for that.

Whatever someone is doing to make the IR Chrome look red instead of orange is not yet known to me, and not yet explained on this board.

If there is a method for making that happen, it seems like it would behoove whoever to instruct.

I mean this with no disrespect, it would simply be very good information for all those who have purchased the filter thinking they can produce the red examples they have seen posted.

I would buy one myself, if I thought it would work. But I have B-410, and I think this is a B-140 stack, and I have never been able to make B-410 look really red.

So far, I have seen no one who purchased the IR Chome show any examples that look red.

And Birna even, and Birna knows some stuff...

Link to comment
Steve, on some Canon cameras you can change the colour profiles in the camera - part of which includes changing the hue. So I presume in theory you can move orange further round into the red. It could also move the sky round more into the blue. I wonder if this is what is being done as part of the 'straight from the camera' process?
Link to comment

Well, I have no argument there, I have never used a Canon camera. Is that what Yann's example were made on?

How many people here use a Canon camera?

I thought the filter was suppose to work on any camera? I never read anything about it working on just a Canon camera?

Thanks for the benefit of the doubt, but I still doubt.

Link to comment

Those I don't know Steve, merely trying to understand how these images can be straight out of the camera, based on the experiences people are having here.

 

EDIT: Just wandered outside with the multispectral 5DSR and canon 40mm pancake lens, and the Lee 729 filter, and got this, straight from the camera (resized for here, that's all);

post-148-0-04090100-1566895216.jpg

 

That was using the 'Standard' colour profile. If I can figure out how to make changes, I'll try out some variations.

Link to comment

Apparently there is a 'Colour tone' slider in the pictures profiles menu in my 5DSR. I tried 2 pictures with the Lee 729, one the the colour tone set to the left, and the other with it set to the right. I also boosted contrast and saturation for both (again within the camera picture profile). EOS 5DSR (multispectral camera) and 40mm pancake lens.

 

Edit - I didn't use autowhitebalance, for these, I used the custom whitebalance for both (same white balance for both images).

 

First, with the Colour tone slider to the left.

post-148-0-11595600-1566896131.jpg

 

Then with it to the right.

post-148-0-58374200-1566896135.jpg

 

Edit - just been reading about Custom Picture Profiles, using the Picture Style editor. You can create these on the computer and the load them into the camera. They include playing around with the colours, and changing the hues, so for instance orange made to look more red.

Link to comment

I've donwloaded the Picture Style Editor, and tried it out. Taken with Multispectral 5DSR and 17-40mm lens (at 17mm), with the Lee 729 filter. Custom white balance (same for both images). Captured as raw and jpeg in the camera.

 

First one - 'Standard' Picture style

post-148-0-12927300-1566900304.jpg

 

Second one - 'Modified' Picture Style

post-148-0-39710500-1566900309.jpg

 

And yes, it was a rather 'hamfisted' and extreme change to the picture style, but was just playing around with it. Unfortunately all the clouds have now gone, so it's just blue sky.

 

This would classify as straight out of the camera, as all I have done is resize the jpeg for sharing.

Link to comment

The last image with clouds is really nice. But this all just hits home that the Lee 729 is the best. I think its hard to say something will work for all cameras, as that may not be true due to camera differences and even conversion difference.

 

Are you stacking it with a weak IR blocking filter or using it straight?

 

 

Link to comment

Just the Lee 729 David. No additional blocking filters.

 

Not sure whether other cameras can 'tweak' these picture profiles like the Canon ones can, but yes, it is hard to say this will work for all cameras.

 

Also keep in mind, before today I had no idea how to change picture profiles. This is me fooling around for a few minutes in a coffee break. I'm sure with more time and work, it could be made to look better.

Link to comment

In my Nikon the there is something in the menu called Picture Control. It may be similar? Don't know, but nothing in that will change the color much.

post-87-0-63735600-1566971904.jpg

Link to comment

Could be Steve. For the images in Post #69 and #70, I used the software Canon provided called 'Picture Style Editor' to create a profile on the computer and then upload it to the camera. That software gave me a lot more flexibility than the 'in camera' only menu. Can you create your own profiles with the Nikon version an upload them to the camera (I'm not familiar with the Nikon software)?

 

The biggest effect for mine, was when I changed the Hue that was displayed.

Link to comment

All I do with the 729 stack is white balance in the camera, using a gray card.

Then I sometimes use auto levels in Photoshop, only if that makes it look better, but sometimes that doesn't, but that is what I do for most all photos, not just these 729 shots.

Using white balance from RAW usually makes it look bad compared to the in camera white balance with the 729 shots, I don't know why, because in most cases white balancing from RAW looks best for other filters and such.

Link to comment

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...