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UltravioletPhotography

Kolarivision IR Chrome 'Aerochrome' filter


GaryR

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Gary,

What lens are you using for that image? I am wondering if the different IR transmissions have an effect. I will try this if I get sun tomorrow. I have the 17-70mm, 70-300mm and 50mm macro. The 50mm macro is more broad spectrum and looked quite blown on a first attempt with my Russian green filter. But did look similar to Jonathan's image, just the red channel may have been clipped.

 

I also found my first full spectrum camera, the Canon S5 and will see what an 80A looks like. The Uv transmission is just to 380nm, on it. An example of why interchangeable len cameras are best for UV work.

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David,

I used a Sigma 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 macro lens (aka 'garbage lens) on the car display shot. All my other car display shots produced similar colors.

 

I've tried the X1 green on it's own, and stacked with various magenta filters, but have never been happy with the results. The 'no filter'/CWB method is easier and produces far better color on early Sigma models. The problem with recent models, like the sdQ and the SD1 Merrill, is that it's extremely difficult to register a proper CWB capture, with the hot mirror/dust protector removed. A DP1 can successfully capture a CWB on a sidewalk, driveway or just about anything neutral gray surface. I don't currently have any Sigma gear, but any of the original DPx p&s cameras would be my choice for SOOC aerochrome.

 

While I'm waiting for the Kolarivision IR Chrome filter, I thought I'd try blue 80a filter on my Sony a7R/Nikkor 50mm/f1.8 AI lens. It didn't produce anything worthwhile, so I'll stick with #12 yellow for now.

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Pondering the red... food for thought.

Remember Colin's example of Hoya B-410 was somewhat red, but just a little too orange.

http://www.ultravioletphotography.com/content/index.php/topic/1282-panasonic-lumix-dmc-g3-camera/page__view__findpost__p__8233

My experience with B-410 is even more orange, and I don't know the difference between Colin's shots and mine, the camera for one thing, white balance?

No matter how I white balance B-410 I can't seem to get it as red as Colin.

BG3 and BG25 both produce yellow foliage, and Colin has examples in the same topic for BG3 and BG25.

BG3, BG25, and B-410 all have quite similar profiles, except B-410 is more shifted to the right.

I have B-410, both 2mm and 3mm, and I can't remember the difference, but nothing thinner.

Also, if you stack BG3 with BG38 you will get red foliage, but not as bright and strong as wanted for Aerochrome/EIR.

So, just pondering here... this sort of stuff always keeps me thinking.

Wondering if there are any filters that are shifted even more to the right than B-410 is? I mean if BG3 is yellow, and B-410 is orange, then what would be red?

Any ideas?

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The common aspect with these filters is that they reject the red band and have reasonable pass of NIR.

I think a part of the effect we get is the NIR portion where the Bayer matrix have a different response for the different channels (700nm - 800nm).

 

I saw the same rejection of red and pass of NIR in the cheap green filter I found. http://www.ultraviol...dpost__p__17010

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That was why I made the B-410 3mm thick, because I thought it might block the red more, which it does, but I don't remember it looking any redder, I can't find the tests for that either.

Personally, the orange look just doesn't agree with me too much.

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At least one of their photos looks like Hoya B-410 to me. Their outdoor shot makes the filter look more cyan, but the indoor shot looks exactly like B-410.

So much for my guessing... I am hoping that Jonathan will show up at the party with his spectrometer. :)

 

You compare:

 

 

small-fill-01788-1024x576.jpg

 

post-87-0-58427800-1550280486.jpg

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At least one of their photos looks like Hoya B-410 to me. Their outdoor shot makes the filter look more cyan, but the indoor shot looks exactly like B-410.

So much for my guessing... I am hoping that Jonathan will show up at the party with his spectrometer. :)

 

Steve, more than happy to test one, if someone wants to send me one ;)

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Hello everyone. I'm the one behind the conception of the IRChrome filter. Feel free to ask me all the questions you have, I'll gladly answer all of them (with keeping in mind that I'd be limited by some confidentiality agreement with Kolari on technical details).

This filter IS NOT Aerochrome but it is a filter that is today the closest emulation possible without any post-production to be involed. You can download RAW files from Kolari's website. B410's color look similar but when shooting with B410 you have pink/light red foliage, not deep red.

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Looking at the curves of the filter, my guess is that these images taken with the filter are of the type IGB-->RGB (substituting the infrared signal for red.) That will indeed get you red foliage, without any channel rearrangement. Whether to call it an emulation of anything is of course a matter of opinion, but there is definite artistic potential.
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When playing with this type of Aerochrome like image methods a slightly more complicated alternative is running the PS-action named Tiffen 12

It is created by the Flickr member H.H.1978 and can be found here:

https://www.dropbox....N%2012.atn?dl=0

I found the link here:

https://www.flickr.c...045395608/page3

The original link H.H.1978 originally used on previous page is dead now.

 

The Tiffen 12 action method is rather simple, but not as simple as the IR Chrome process.

 

For the Tiffen 12 action, (I do):

Shoot raw with a suitable orange lens-filter, like Tiffen 12, Nikon O56 or B+W 040.

White balance.

Run the action and adjust to taste in the action's controls.

 

The IR Chrome process, (I guess):

Shoot with a IR Chrome lens-filter.

White balance.

Adjust contrast etc. if needed to taste.

 

Depending on your skill and experience with real EIR-film looks the adjustments will make the result more or less close to the real thing.

One difference is that the action will give correct yellow from red objects just as real EIR-film.

The IR Chrome seam to give most or all other typical EIR-looks with red foliage etc, possibly directly out of the camera, if the camera can handle such strong balancing.

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Adrian, The H.H. Photoshop action is what I often use with #12, or yellow to orange filters, such as Schott GG## to OG550, etc..

I usually have to adjust the last hue part of the action to about +20 to get the reds to look right for me.

I seldom adjust anything else in the action except sometimes I lower the contrast at that stage of the action.

That action does make visual red turn yellow, like EIR/Aerochrome would.

I have even used that action of filters as high as 590nm with some very interesting results.

post-87-0-55899100-1551287597.jpg

 

post-87-0-76480400-1551287969.jpg

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Great colors Cadium!

UlfW, Thanks for the 'Tiffen 12' link. I'll have to play around with it more, but it works fine on my Win10, CS6 desktop. The NS aerochrome profile that I currently use, works well, but interesting, in that visual red turns green, instead of yellow. In any of my old 35mm EIR shots from the 70s, visual red turns yellow, so I expect the red to green shift, would have something to do with processing.

 

The original Kodak Aerochrome III publication also mentions that visual red results in green.

Reflectance of orginal subject:............Blue....Green.....Red...Infrared

..............................................................v.......... v.......... v...........v

Resulting colors in transparency:.......Black.....Blue.....Green....Red

 

With the IR Chrome filter in mind, I stacked a Tiffen 80a blue, with a Hoya X1 green, then CWB on a gray card (FS-Sony a7R). I'm looking forward to the IR Chrome, but fun to play around with filter combinations, nonetheless.

 

This is the SOOC results; red car tail lights remain red.

post-189-0-78500900-1551551091.jpg

 

Same as above, with correction.

post-189-0-23107900-1551551187.jpg

 

NS aerochrome profile, red car tail lights turn green

post-189-0-15539400-1551551272.jpg

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Taillight lenses transmit both infrared and red but block green and blue; therefore, they appear yellow(ish) in IRG images which render the combination as red+green. IRG images are obtained from light that is restricted to green and longer wavelengths. If one uses an IGB filter pack instead (blocking red rather than blue,) protocols such as Nick Spiker's might behave unpredictably, as this is applying them outside their design use case. For one thing, the pure infrared signal would appear in the red channel rather than the blue one, and the algorithm would not know this, nor that the blue channel contains actual blue as well as infrared. I am surprised that the results in the last image are not stranger than they appear to be.
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I use the H.H. action usually, for #12 and other yellow/orange range longpass filters.

Tail lights turn yellow (or is that green?) but remember, I find that I need adjust the final segment of the action (hue) to about +20, usually, depending sometimes on the filter I used,

but that adjustment may be entirely different for you depending on various factors, regardless it can be used to get the red looking closer to how you think it should.

I also usually adjust the contrast segment earlier in the action also, but that final hue segment will change overall hues, red and yellows.

 

Here is a comparison before the action and after, of some tail lights. Yellow? Green?

post-87-0-69368700-1551587153.jpg

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From your explanation Clark, and your examples Cadium (Steve?), I can see that my results aren't too far off. The yellow-ish (or green-ish) tail lights, in the row of cars, are similar to what I get with the NS profile.

 

I'll do a new post to show my recent results.

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David, I think you may be onto something there with the Scuba Blue + KG3 stack in your first link.

Never tried a Scuba Blue before.

Nice find, thanks for posting that.

 

I have a feeling some people will be ordering some Lee Scuba Blue.

Large sheet, small price too.

I thought I had some KG3 around here, but I can't find it... will get some.

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Cadmium,

Have you tried to shoot with the B410 to see if you get similar. After this I think I will try with an 80A stack to see if I see something similar.

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Colin came the closest to red with B-410, out of camera and unprocessed.

I get more of an orange look using B-410.

I have not tried 80A.

 

I think your link shows the best thing to try, Lee Scuba Blue #729 gel + Schott KG3 stack.

So I will try that when I get some of that.

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