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UltravioletPhotography

Godox AD600BM to modify for UV


ulf

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I am considering getting a Godox AD600BM to modify for UV as I feel the output from my Godox AD200 is a bit to weak.

Something like this set would be nice and portable:

https://www.ebay.com...ng/283082472135

 

The flash tube must be replaced as the original tube is likely to be UV-filtered.

I am playing with the idea of get a customised flash-tube from https://www.xenonfla...-lamps-design_9

They can make as few as one single tube, but the price will most probably be lower if more than one will be made.

I have not asked them for a cost indication yet and wonder if someone else at the forum might be interested to join this adventure.

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The flash tube company you linked to has some quite interesting UV-capable Xenon tubes ... not cheap, though. I might buy new 800 or 1600 WS units for my Broncolor studio flashes. Thanks for the heads-up.
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I did some preliminary spectral-tests with three different flash-tubes from xenonflashtubes.com, mounted on my Godox AD200.

I wanted to check the spectrums to see if the behaviours might be acceptable for bigger types, suited for Godox AD600.

post-150-0-20577800-1547727759.jpg

 

post-150-0-08261600-1547727847.png

 

In the diagram

Purple, the straight 250Ws quartz-tube: https://www.xenonfla...l-lamp_121.html

Green, the small 40Ws glass spiral-tube: https://www.xenonfla...be-lamp_79.html

Red, the 200Ws glass ring-tube: https://www.xenonfla...p-200ws_73.html

Cyan. The godox speedlight head on the AD200

 

The curves are normalised for the same average level between 470nm and 650nm.

 

The measurement was done by bouncing the light from the flash onto a clean 5mm thick PTFE sheet and feeding the reflected light by a fibre to the spectrometer.

The AD200 had the standard reflector mounted, except with the speedlight head.

 

It was very clear that the ring tube was not efficiently reflected by the reflector geometry.

 

The quartz tube match the reflector geometry quite well and it can handle the maximum energy of the flash with some margin. It gave the highest directional light output.

The ratio between VIS and UV-A is also quite nice. I like the performance, but I have to arrange a filter to stop UV-B and UV-C.

 

The small spiral flash-tube, originally mentioned by Enrico, is severely under-dimensioned (40Ws). With short time between flashes, the glass melt inside of the tube.

I have so far killed two of those. With enough cooling-time between flashes it will likely survive longer.

 

 

My conclusion based on the spectras is that I will go for some type of quartz tube and arrange a suitable UV-A pass filter.

 

Depending on the geometry of the original AD600 flash-tube and reflector it might be either of these:

https://www.xenonfla...studio_160.html

https://www.xenonfla...studio_166.html

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That purple graph line looks excellent. 35% at 300nm with low IR, max peak about 40% at 825nm. That would be outstanding for outside UVb imaging with a 313nm or 300nm filter. The cost isn't too prohibitive either.

Something to think about.

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That purple graph line looks excellent. 35% at 300nm with low IR, max peak about 40% at 825nm. That would be outstanding for outside UVb imaging with a 313nm or 300nm filter. The cost isn't too prohibitive either.

Something to think about.

The amplitudes for different wavelengths are not calibrated as I do not have access to any amplitude calibration source.

This is the result of the response of the grating used in the spectrometer only. The IR part amplitudes are not comparable with the UV-part.

However the response-variation isn't that quick and levels in the same region are reasonably comparable.

 

Also I normalised against a rather big range of wavelengths to get a reasonably common level in VIS for all spectra, to better be able to compare the differences in UV-energy.

It is not 35% at 300nm compared to the maximum amplitude in VIS.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A status update:

 

The Godox AD600BM-kit I mentioned in my first post has arrived.

It still looks promising and I think it will work well in the field.

It is not too heavy to carry and the standard flash lamp is powerful.

A 600Ws battery powered flash, recycling in two seconds after flashing at full power is rather impressive!

 

I have also ordered the same HPR-6069 Round 1600ws Flash tube Quartz Lamp as Birna mentioned above.

The flash tube looks to have a similar shape and size as the tube in the more modern and expensive Godox AD600 Pro.

I intend to use the Bowens mount standard reflector designed for that flash.

The reflector is more compact with only 120mm in diameter compared to the big 180mm reflector designed for AD600BM.

I have the reflector and it fits well.

 

To filter UV-B and -C I have ordered UV-grade Perspex-sheets from

http://www.plasticst...ylic-Sheet.aspx

They were nice and could cut circular discs to the diameter I wanted for a reasonable cost.

Perspex - UVT.PDF

 

I designed a new Circuit board (PCB) to aid the connection of the flash-tube with banana-connectors in fitting positions to the flash.

The PCB is under production in China now.

I'll get ten PCBs and will not need more than a few of them, most likely only one.

I can share the rest of the boards if someone like to use the same design in the future.

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  • 2 years later...

Did you do any testing on the AD600 factory bulb? I have this flash and when I photographed the bulb under UV it was very clear. 

 

When you measured the AD200 rectangle speedlite head did you remove the fresnel cover? I am wondering because that bulb also looked very clear under UV compared to the accessory strobe head which had some obvious coating. 

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None of the Godox flashes give good UV out of the box. The AD600 was a bit of a disappointment even with the fancy quartz ring tube. The reflector is not optimal and the flash is doing intelligent evaluation of the flash tube's status. It is not easy to get it to work well with a custom tube.

 

I posted more about the rectangle shaped speedlite-head and it's characteristics as an answer in someones topic. Please do more searches to find it yourself

 

For good UV you have to remove both the fresnel window and the thick filter window. It is a good idea to add some uv-transparent protective window instead of the filter window

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When I re-inserted the thick glass, maybe that explains why the speedlite head wasn't working as good as my initial impression. However, if was clear when I took a UV photo of that piece.  I wonder if the Adorama Flashpoint re-brand uses a different bulb or possibly over time they sourced bulbs from different manufacturers. Or knowing that the polycarbonate fresnel blocks UV they opted for no coating on the bulb.  I use the AD200 and AD360 at 1/1 or 1/2 at a distance less than 1 meter ISO 100 1/160 f/11 35mm and the Baader U-Venus. My results have been very acceptable. I can run them for weeks without a recharge.

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I can only concur with Ulf and remind every user of a power flash, whether battery or A/C powered, to ensure it has a safety glass over the flash tube itself.  If you have witnessed a studio flash tube explode you certainly need no more convincing arguments as to its required presence.  The safety glass cupolas on my Broncolor units are quartz material thus do not restrict UV output. This safety measures doesn't come cheap, but one day a user will regret skipping it.

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10 minutes ago, nfoto said:

I can only concur with Ulf and remind every user of a power flash, whether battery or A/C powered, to ensure it has a safety glass over the flash tube itself.  If you have witnessed a studio flash tube explode you certainly need no more convincing arguments as to its required presence.  The safety glass cupolas on my Broncolor units are quartz material thus do not restrict UV output. This safety measures doesn't come cheap, but one day a user will regret skipping it.

I hope its a flower regretting its live and not a model or user.

Clear PMMA is very cheap and works well. It can be cut to various sizes and should be the minimum protection you use.

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1 hour ago, dabateman said:

I hope its a flower regretting its live and not a model or user.

Clear PMMA is very cheap and works well. It can be cut to various sizes and should be the minimum protection you use.

Not all PMMA are the same. Some restrict UV more than other. I found UV-grade PMMA used in tanning beds that work fine.

PMMA is often called Plexiglass. The UV-grade PMMA i used came from the UK.

 

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For such small areas like in the AD200 speedlite head maybe a Fused Silica part with the same contour shape as the original filter glass sheet could be customised from Tangsinuo.

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I just ordered some 70mmx40mm cut glass from them too, for the AD200 speed lite head. Could have saved on shipping. 

 

Is fused silica same as JGS2? 

 

Also, has anyone tested the V860II?

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Yes, I always wear pants when using flash strobes without cover glass. 

 

Colinbm, Every color line is above 90 percent. Does it matter which protection glass I get?

 

 

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I guess your lowest UV will be above 300nm & your IR will be less then 1000nn, so any will do, just get the cheapest.
The Fused Silica for deeper UV or deeper IR are more expensive usually.

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On 10/19/2021 at 6:32 AM, ulf said:

None of the Godox flashes give good UV out of the box. The AD600 was a bit of a disappointment even with the fancy quartz ring tube. The reflector is not optimal and the flash is doing intelligent evaluation of the flash tube's status. It is not easy to get it to work well with a custom tube.

 

I posted more about the rectangle shaped speedlite-head and it's characteristics as an answer in someones topic. Please do more searches to find it yourself

 

For good UV you have to remove both the fresnel window and the thick filter window. It is a good idea to add some uv-transparent protective window instead of the filter window

 

Ulf, were you able to get the 600 to play nice by using the custom PCB assembled in fantastic China? I got this thing for $300 from Adorama during a November holiday sale as a package with a huge parabolic umbrella, and they even threw in a really nice suitcase. It needs a solid stand though. 

 

IMG_6615.jpg.288bab6ca14246e3407adfab2b39d453.jpg

 

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Yes, at least partially, when I was running with the ring shaped quartz tube. The flash became more hesitant after a FW update.  I have the extension cord to be able to place the flash head away from the main body. With the bare bulb tube everything works well. With my DIY structure it fails completely with the extension cord.

I assume the flash is monitoring currents and voltages for protection, when flashing. A non GODOX tube deviates too much in behaviour. 

 

I loose a lot of optical energy with the ring tube as it is not working optimally with the reflector. I might use the 600 for background illumination in the future, but for now I prefer the two AD200 with custom quartz tubes only.

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I'm just throwing it out there. Maybe you are seeing thermal protection.  It has a situational cooling fan. If you could add a second (always on) fan powered separately over top the existing fan to draw off heat maybe this would do something. Possibly locate and drill holes somewhere and add a fan there. Run it outside of its case with airflow over the entire device. See if that makes any difference. 

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1 hour ago, Blazer0ne said:

I'm just throwing it out there. Maybe you are seeing thermal protection.  It has a situational cooling fan. If you could add a second (always on) fan powered separately over top the existing fan to draw off heat maybe this would do something. Possibly locate and drill holes somewhere and add a fan there. Run it outside of its case with airflow over the entire device. See if that makes any difference. 

No it is not a heating problem.

It shows up at the first flash, when the unit is cold.

 

I am rather confident that it is a protection function of the flashtube by monitoring of the current waveform through the tube.

From electronic measurement point of view these processes are glacially slow and very simple to monitor with suitable internal electronics. 

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I get what you are saying. It could be some type of overload protection as voltage returns back to the circuits. So, in your experience has placing modified tubes on other strobes caused any longterm issues?

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