Terry Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 Thanks Andy, just that I have spent way too much on software already and not having a clue what Im doing really, I would like to try and figure it out before spending more.I read Andreas setting WB sticky for Nikons but I think I may have to wait for Adrians book to arrive and hope theres something in there explaining this WB conundrum for UV. I usually shoot IR and mostly with a 25A so WB is pretty easy in the field. Link to comment
Terry Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 Red? That dandelion center looks green to me, similar to a UG5/U-330 stack (UV+Blue+Green).Doesn't look at all red to me.This shot?http://www.ultraviol...dpost__p__25008 It is also possible that monitor calibration may play a role - I see a slight green cast on the large monitor but on the laptop screen it has a red cast Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 It is not my monitor, It is green. But that really isn't the point, the point is you are white balancing the pic. Just a little odd that the center is green instead of plain black, I mean using a UV-only filter,which would not seem to me to be just a white balance adjustment.Your white balance does show the expected yellow of that flower though. Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 If you want to let someone else white balance it for you, just to get an idea of what might be what, then upload a raw file somewhere for people to play with... Link to comment
Terry Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 The easy solution is to desaturate green and cyan to get this - and then remove blue and magenta Link to comment
Terry Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 If you want to let someone else white balance it for you, just to get an idea of what might be what, then upload a raw file somewhere for people to play with... Appreciate the offer but this was actually just a light leak test I did and edited straight off the card so no raw file anymore. Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 It is best to have a RAW file, then you can always optimize your white balance later.White balance from RAW will give you the best and most versatile results. Link to comment
Terry Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 It is best to have a RAW file, then you can always optimize your white balance later.White balance from RAW will give you the best and most versatile results. Couldnt agree more but as I said, this was just to test the light leak issue :) Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 OK, but what do you mean by "edited straight off the card so no raw file anymore", so you didn't have a RAW file type?When I shoot, I set my camera to generate both Jpeg and RAW files, then I have both.Start generating RAW files when you shoot.Test with those.If you want to make this 'out-of-band' stuff work right you need to start with RAW files.Start over with RAW files. Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 You need RAW files to white balance out of camera. I am not talking about an unedited original JPG file, I am talking about a RAW type file format. You can't white balance a JPG file, you need the RAW file. Link to comment
dabateman Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 As for free software, there are some really good options now.For full control there is Raw Therapee, version 5.5 will be released soon.If you want digital assets management, similar to lightroom, then darktable is really good.For full layer control photoflow is also good.Other good options are:LightzonePhotivo Actually better if you just look here:https://pixls.us/software/ I am a bit of a software junkie, so I have played around with many different packages. David Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 If you are white balancing or otherwise processing an image from/using a RAW type file, it doesn't matter if you processed in off the card, or anything else,a RAW file retains its original info/data, so you never loose the original.I am thinking you were not shooting to a RAW file? Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 Were you editing an actual RAW file? Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 If you are not shooting RAW then start over, shoot in RAW and white balance the RAW file with Photo Ninja.Focus on that for now. Link to comment
Terry Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 OK, but what do you mean by "edited straight off the card so no raw file anymore", so you didn't have a RAW file type?When I shoot, I set my camera to generate both Jpeg and RAW files, then I have both.Start generating RAW files when you shoot.Test with those.If you want to make this 'out-of-band' stuff work right you need to start with RAW files.Start over with RAW files. What I meant was I pulled the RAW off the card into PS and edited the image and saved. I didn't save the RAW from the card to the HDD. Link to comment
Terry Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 As for free software, there are some really good options now.For full control there is Raw Therapee, version 5.5 will be released soon.If you want digital assets management, similar to lightroom, then darktable is really good.For full layer control photoflow is also good.Other good options are:LightzonePhotivo Actually better if you just look here:https://pixls.us/software/ I am a bit of a software junkie, so I have played around with many different packages. David Great link, thanks for that Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Umm... Well I still don't know what you meant by a 'RAW' file.But all of this is a waste of time if you are not using an actual RAW file.If your camera is not set to generate RAW files, or JPEG+RAW then set your camera up to generate RAW or JPEG+RAW, and set both files types for the highest settings.No software can white balance from a JPEG, you do it from a RAW file. And you can do it over and over from scratch from the same RAW file as many times as you want.Once you edit a RAW file, if you then save it, it remembers the last saved edit as well as the original from camera adjustments.It will not matter how many software programs you have, or which ones if you don't have a RAW file. Get the RAW file working, then take another pic, then use Photo Ninja.Am I getting boring here, if so, let me know and I will stop. Link to comment
Terry Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Im not sure what you are not understanding when I say I used a RAW file - the meaning of RAW file is just that *.NEF, *.ARW, *.CR2 - I used a RAW file, I just didn't save it. Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Good, then if you were using a RAW type file, then you still have the RAW file, that's what you want. It doesn't matter if you saved the edit you did.Yep, you are doing it right. Sorry it took me that long to understand. Quick/Simple instructions for Photo Ninja RAW file White Balance 1) Load a RAW file into Photo Ninja2) Click on "Color correction"3) Put mouse/ink-dropper at the top left corner of the image,hold down left mouse button while dragging mouse to bottom right corner of the image,then release mouse button.4) Voilà, you have white balance. Link to comment
OlDoinyo Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 I used a RAW file, I just didn't save it. Not sure what you mean, but one hopes you are not discarding your original files--that is like throwing away your negatives in film photography! Originals of whatever nature are something to be zealously guarded. Link to comment
Terry Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Not sure what you mean, but one hopes you are not discarding your original files--that is like throwing away your negatives in film photography! Originals of whatever nature are something to be zealously guarded. WOW I didnt know this would be such a big issue. I did a light leak test and didn't save the RAW file, give me a break guys Link to comment
Cadmium Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 It isn't a big deal. You're cool.Just trying to figure out what happened to that RAW file...Doesn't matter, you can shoot another picture.But unless you deleted the RAW file off your card, then it should still be there, right? I was more concerned with white balance than the light leak... and since you are using a RAW file to white balance from in PN, then all is well.Also the green, that does seem strange to me. Doesn't make sense. Link to comment
Terry Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 Thats just it, I formatted the card before I shot again. I just grabbed that jpg to illustrate the light leak and it ended up being a test sample for the yellow I was supposed to be getting followed the green colour casts etc etc And yes, exactly that, I can just go and shoot another one, these daisy's are all over my back yard. The wind is howling now so its kind of difficult especially since Im now back to the Sony E 16mm due to the light leak I mentioned above. Will give it another go as soon as the wind dies down a bit Link to comment
Terry Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 and just for the record, I still have negatives all the way back to the early 80's along with about 100gb of RAW files ;)I still shoot film and I still develop and print my own stuff (just cant at the moment due to relocation) Link to comment
Andy Perrin Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 Hee. We get a little fierce on here sometimes! Yes, just shoot a new dandelion and save the RAW, then upload it here and we will see if we can get the expected colors or if that green persists. The best thing is if you could shoot it alongside some PTFE so we would have a known standard to WB off of. Link to comment
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