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UltravioletPhotography

Ultraviolet photoshoot (+bonus infrared/visible/full spectrum)


SteveCampbell

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SteveCampbell

I assume a little bit of IR leak in the UV photos is responsible for the skin tone, but not sure.

 

Model: Sophia. WB: PTFE. Location: Sydney (Paddington Reservoir, Queen Victoria Building, The Rocks). Editing: Minor edits in Lightroom CC.

 

UV: EL-Nikkor 80mm f/5.6 (metal) /w Φ52mm UG11+BG40.

 

post-156-0-59609000-1529486889.jpg

 

post-156-0-97317200-1529487810.jpg

 

post-156-0-47412500-1529486882.jpg

 

post-156-0-41666500-1529486892.jpg

 

post-156-0-10882600-1529487743.jpg

 

INFRARED (>720nm): 35/1.4 and 85/1.2 with Φ77mm r72

 

post-156-0-49052200-1529486879.jpg

 

post-156-0-82010300-1529486876.jpg

 

INFRARED (>850nm): 85/1.2 with Φ77mm 850nm IR filter

 

post-156-0-79427900-1529486899.jpg

 

post-156-0-78109900-1529486902.jpg

 

VISIBLE: 35/1.4 and 85/1.2 with Φ77mm BG39

 

post-156-0-64553300-1529486861.jpg

 

post-156-0-65695300-1529486870.jpg

 

post-156-0-52458300-1529487394.jpg

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eye4invisible

Very nice work, Steve! Which camera was this shot with?

 

Also, out of curiosity, what size focusing helicoid are you using with the EL Nikkor? I'm looking at a few right now, and they vary from 12-19mm, 17-31mm, even 35-90mm. I'm guessing your helicoid is the smallest size for portrait work... 12-19?

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SteveCampbell

A bit of an odd sky tint in frames 4 and 5, otherwise good work. I like the last one as well.

 

Thanks, yea the WB was a little weird. There was no way to balance it "naturally". With the PTFE the sky just came out green, strangely enough. I'll see how a BG39 works with a UG11 under similar circumstances.

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SteveCampbell

Very nice work, Steve! Which camera was this shot with?

 

Also, out of curiosity, what size focusing helicoid are you using with the EL Nikkor? I'm looking at a few right now, and they vary from 12-19mm, 17-31mm, even 35-90mm. I'm guessing your helicoid is the smallest size for portrait work... 12-19?

 

Thanks Andy

A 5D mkII with a quartz (spectrosil) hotmirror replacement

17-31mm with metal EL 80/5.6

35-90mm with metal EL 135/5.6

Got a metal EL 50/2.8 on the way that I'm hoping to pair with 12-17mm (won't reach infinity that way but hopefully will work with portraits)

Also have a beat-up metal EL 105/5.6 on the way that I'll try to pair with 17-31mm if I can fix it up first.

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I modified a wider helicoid for my El-Nikkor 80/5.6 to both reach infinity and get more magnification with the same unit.

It works quite well.

See here about it: http://www.ultraviol...__fromsearch__1

 

My camera is a Canon EOS 60D.

(The same back flange distance)

 

The same modification, but for a Nikon DSLR must place the lens 2.5mm further into the helicoid, due to the different back flange distance.

This makes it more difficult to operate the aperture ring.

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I assume a little bit of IR leak in the UV photos is responsible for the skin tone, but not sure.

 

Model: Sophia. WB: PTFE. Location: Sydney (Paddington Reservoir, Queen Victoria Building, The Rocks). Editing: Minor edits in Lightroom CC.

 

UV: EL-Nikkor 80mm f/5.6 (metal) /w Φ52mm UG11+BG40.

 

 

Steve, how thick is your BG40?

 

A S8612 2mm would be a more efficient alternative to surpress IR.

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eye4invisible

A 5D mkII with a quartz (spectrosil) hotmirror replacement

Wow, that must have been an expensive conversion! Did you do the conversion yourself?

 

I just bought an EL-Nikkor 75mm f/4 today off of eBay: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/372314039957, plus 2x M42 mount helicoids from AliExpress.com, plus a 34mm to 52mm filter step up from rafcamera.com yesterday. No doubt the helicoids will arrive last (I expect a month or more from China - most of the delay is Canadian Customs).

 

Can't wait to try it out!

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eye4invisible

Thanks, yea the WB was a little weird. There was no way to balance it "naturally". With the PTFE the sky just came out green, strangely enough. I'll see how a BG39 works with a UG11 under similar circumstances.

My Nikon D3200 is impossible to custom WB in UV and with most of my IR filters in place.

 

You have some really nice pink and olive tones in the first photo. The best I can hope for is a monochrome photo with a purplish cast in most cases (only dandelions come through with their yellow petals - nearly all other flowers render as blue). I guess that's the difference between UG1 and UG11 glass.

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SteveCampbell

I modified a wider helicoid for my El-Nikkor 80/5.6 to both reach infinity and get more magnification with the same unit.

It works quite well.

See here about it: http://www.ultraviol...__fromsearch__1

 

My camera is a Canon EOS 60D.

(The same back flange distance)

 

The same modification, but for a Nikon DSLR must place the lens 2.5mm further into the helicoid, due to the different back flange distance.

This makes it more difficult to operate the aperture ring.

 

Ah very good

Any experience with mounting the EL 50/2.8?

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SteveCampbell

 

 

Steve, how thick is your BG40?

 

A S8612 2mm would be a more efficient alternative to surpress IR.

 

Not sure about the BG40, but I'm now using a BG39 that is 2mm. I've found the S8612s to be a little expensive. Perhaps if manage to find a cheaper copy ...

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SteveCampbell

 

Wow, that must have been an expensive conversion! Did you do the conversion yourself?

 

I just bought an EL-Nikkor 75mm f/4 today off of eBay: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/372314039957, plus 2x M42 mount helicoids from AliExpress.com, plus a 34mm to 52mm filter step up from rafcamera.com yesterday. No doubt the helicoids will arrive last (I expect a month or more from China - most of the delay is Canadian Customs).

 

Can't wait to try it out!

 

Not too expensive since it's a 10-year old camera, but had it converted for me. Tried the conversions before, but thought better than to do it myself for a FF.

 

Make sure the 34mm is going to be ok - for my EL 80/5.6 I needed a precisely 34.5mm adapter. They're more difficult to find, but there are some sellers that custom-machine it for the EL Nikkors

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eye4invisible

Make sure the 34mm is going to be ok - for my EL 80/5.6 I needed a precisely 34.5mm adapter. They're more difficult to find, but there are some sellers that custom-machine it for the EL Nikkors

Custom machining is going to be too expensive. I have 2 possible solutions:

* I'll try using some plumber's tape first. It's usually made of PTFE, so the bonus is that I might be able to stick some strips of it to a piece of card and try setting a white balance against it (unlikely, given how fussy the D3200 is, but it's worth a try).

* If the plumber's tape doesn't work, I'll just epoxy it in (which will mean I can't use it with any other EL lenses I may buy, so that will be a last resort). The overall cost to buy another one from rafcamera.com isn't too bad, if I acquire another EL lens. The 75mm f/4 and helicoids will satisfy my gear acquisition syndrome for a while :)

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SteveCampbell

 

Custom machining is going to be too expensive. I have 2 possible solutions:

* I'll try using some plumber's tape first. It's usually made of PTFE, so the bonus is that I might be able to stick some strips of it to a piece of card and try setting a white balance against it (unlikely, given how fussy the D3200 is, but it's worth a try).

* If the plumber's tape doesn't work, I'll just epoxy it in (which will mean I can't use it with any other EL lenses I may buy, so that will be a last resort). The overall cost to buy another one from rafcamera.com isn't too bad, if I acquire another EL lens. The 75mm f/4 and helicoids will satisfy my gear acquisition syndrome for a while :)

 

Found this one at not too extreme a price:

 

https://www.rafcamera.com/adapter-52mm-to-34-5mm

 

Not exactly at the 99 cent price point I usually find for Chinese adapter rings, but not too much gouging

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eye4invisible

Found this one at not too extreme a price:

 

https://www.rafcamer...-52mm-to-34-5mm

 

Not exactly at the 99 cent price point I usually find for Chinese adapter rings, but not too much gouging

 

Thanks. Looks like I didn't search hard enough on that site. It's the same price as the 34mm I purchased there, and my 34mm is already on its way, so I'll save your link for future ref.

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Ah very good

Any experience with mounting the EL 50/2.8?

 

No, not really.

I think it will fit inside a 52mm helicoid but that it will be difficult to reach infinity then, just as it is with the Focotar 50/4.5

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SteveCampbell

 

 

Thanks. Looks like I didn't search hard enough on that site. It's the same price as the 34mm I purchased there, and my 34mm is already on its way, so I'll save your link for future ref.

 

No worries

If you ever need standard-size step up/down rings in the future (I've found that UV photography demands a lot of them), you can normally find them for $1-2 on eBay

 

https://m.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=42mm+to+52mm&_from=R40&_trksid=m4084.l1313&_nkw=34mm+to+52mm

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  • 2 weeks later...

The first two IR photos are wonderful!

 

I was wondering why some of these are not cropped for a bit more dramatic effect? You have some nice compositional elements in many of the scenes with the diagonals and the "stripes" but in some shots there is too much distraction. Of course, you might have been just presenting the initial series and cropping refinements would come later. In which case, kindly ignore my question. :)

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SteveCampbell

The first two IR photos are wonderful!

 

I was wondering why some of these are not cropped for a bit more dramatic effect? You have some nice compositional elements in many of the scenes with the diagonals and the "stripes" but in some shots there is too much distraction. Of course, you might have been just presenting the initial series and cropping refinements would come later. In which case, kindly ignore my question. :)

 

Thanks Andrea!

 

Very minor edits so far - just quickly selected a few that might be interesting. I'll be posting proper edits in a few months once some time frees up!

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I agree with Andrea about the improvement potential.

 

When looking at them in the beginning I saw interesting very nice images and then looked for the UV- and IR-related details.

After Andreas comment I looked again, downloaded and played a bit with one of your images. I think it became even better.

 

Steve, may I show how I cropped your image here on the forum?

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It looks like it is working to me.

What are the filter thicknesses? Thickness is essential information.

BG39 is the worst UV transmitting BG glass. Just want you to know that, I have shown that before, so no graphs this time.

BG39 suppresses Red/IR the same as S8612, same thickness, but it cuts a huge amount more of UV.

If you are using a conducive stack of UG11 and BG40 that might work well enough if the two thicknesses are good, but without that information I can't say how efficient your stack is.

If the thicknesses were well matched (UG11 + BG40) it could easily be better than using BG39 in that stack.

Remember, BG40 2mm is almost exactly like S8612 1mm. BG40 2.5mm is about like S8612 1.25mm.

For example, an efficient UG11 stack: UG11 1.25mm thick + S8612 1.75mm to 2mm thick, or use UG11 1.25mm thick + BG40 3.5mm (+) thick.

I see no reason in the world to ever use BG39, BG40 works better at twice the thickness.

Keep in mind also that there are filters being sold that are not made out of what they say they are made out of, and 'equivalents' are often not.

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SteveCampbell

I agree with Andrea about the improvement potential.

 

When looking at them in the beginning I saw interesting very nice images and then looked for the UV- and IR-related details.

After Andreas comment I looked again, downloaded and played a bit with one of your images. I think it became even better.

 

Steve, may I show how I cropped your image here on the forum?

 

Sure, no problem!

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SteveCampbell

It looks like it is working to me.

What are the filter thicknesses? Thickness is essential information.

BG39 is the worst UV transmitting BG glass. Just want you to know that, I have shown that before, so no graphs this time.

BG39 suppresses Red/IR the same as S8612, same thickness, but it cuts a huge amount more of UV.

If you are using a conducive stack of UG11 and BG40 that might work well enough if the two thicknesses are good, but without that information I can't say how efficient your stack is.

If the thicknesses were well matched (UG11 + BG40) it could easily be better than using BG39 in that stack.

Remember, BG40 2mm is almost exactly like S8612 1mm. BG40 2.5mm is about like S8612 1.25mm.

For example, an efficient UG11 stack: UG11 1.25mm thick + S8612 1.75mm to 2mm thick, or use UG11 1.25mm thick + BG40 3.5mm (+) thick.

I see no reason in the world to ever use BG39, BG40 works better at twice the thickness.

Keep in mind also that there are filters being sold that are not made out of what they say they are made out of, and 'equivalents' are often not.

 

Here the BG39 was 2mm thick with a UG11 also 2mm. The justification is that UG11 starts passing IR just before 700nm. BG40 appears to still transmit IR to just before 800nm while BG39 transmits to only just before 700nm. Because I didnt want IR leakage, I went with BG39

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Here the BG39 was 2mm thick with a UG11 also 2mm. The justification is that UG11 starts passing IR just before 700nm. BG40 appears to still transmit IR to just before 800nm while BG39 transmits to only just before 700nm. Because I didnt want IR leakage, I went with BG39

If choosing between BG39 and BG40 for a stack with UG11, I too would go for BG39 as the attenuation ratio UV /IR at peaks are better for that combination.

If I could get S8612 instead of BG39 that would be an even better alternative with a better UV-transmission.

In my opinion the best UV-stack would be S8612 + U-360, both 2mm.

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