Jump to content
UltravioletPhotography

The final question about the m4/3 body for conversion


Dmitry

Recommended Posts

I have Olympus e-pm1 fs body and looking for better fs body with EVF, e-shutter, better IBIS and other whistles and bells :)

 

I have e-m1 as the main candidate. It is a bit rusty, some wheels are semi-working, require some internal cleaning. But it is huge in comparison with lenses compatible with UV.

 

For general photos I use e-m5ii or pen-f. I do not lose anything after the conversion of e-m1 in this case

 

 

 

So the question is - to convert e-m1 or look for used e-m5, e-m10 or something like that?

Link to comment

The better the camera the better the photograph -- technically speaking, of course. (The photographer must also have some skill, yes?) This is true for reflected UV photography just as it is in visible photography. So, for the Olympus cameras, the current best sensor is the Olympus E-M1 Mark II. The other sensors in the E-M5 (I and II), E-M10 (1 and II), Pen-F and Pen-E are all about the same. So unless you want the newest model (E-M1 Mark II), then pick the one with the features you like best.

 

Don't forget the other m4/3 bodies made by Panasonic. You might enjoy one of those also?

Link to comment

I have no reason to use hi-res or pro-capture or other modern modes for UV yet. Plan is to give second life for cheap old cameras.

As for Panasonic - I like to share same batteries across my cameras. I already have two types: BLN-1 and BLS-5.

 

I like features of e-m1, but I worry about grip size compared to meike 28mm lens for example.

Link to comment

I find my Em1 to have a really weak uv blocking filter. I can see to 370nm, which is why I have been hesitant with a full conversion.

I think first you need some better filters. Before you jump to a new camera.

What makes for good uv photography is:

1. Best filter you can get and range you prefer. For me my favorite is the the Baader venus 2. But my new 390bp25 is really growing on me.

2. Good uv lens. You can get a super expensive quartz lens. But recently the Sigma 30mm f2.8 art in m43rds mount has become my favorite, especially with the 390bp25 filter.

3. Then good camera. To really be better at uv capture a monochrome seems to have the highest sensitivity. But you first should compare the stock Em1 to your converted camera using better filters.

 

As for Panasonic M43rds, the newer ones have the dreaded ir shutter sensor and will not be great for conversion. There is the electronic shutter work around. But an Olympus would be better, and I think either the Em5mk2 or Em1 are excellent options. The Em1mk2 converted would be interesting as it may have a back side illuminated sensor, but I haven't been able to confirm that yet. BSI sensors I think would be excellent for uv conversion.

Link to comment

Not a bad test for you to try. Using the same lens, and your Zwb2 filter see how different the exposure is. The advantage of the EM1 is the higher ISO is also cleaner than your epm1.

 

I still think you need better filter, like a U360 + S8612 combo.

Link to comment
I use both an fs E-M1 and an off-the-shelf E-M1. The E-M1 has several features that are very useful for UV photography: "Bulb compose" mode, a bulb mode that displays the image as it "develops/builds" as exposure progresses, so that one can visually decide when the image is done and terminate exposure. This works nicely when "painting" an image with a UV flashlight, even for UVIVF. Image stabilization does work in UV as well as (to some extent) autofocus and focus peaking. In-camera white balance does also work (not in auto-WB but by taking a reference image). Tethering with Olympus Capture (free) software is also handy on a PC.
Link to comment
I do not have any really tiny lens. The smallest I have are the M.Zuiko 17mm f:1.8 and 45mm f:1.8. For me the main source of difficulty with manual focusing the 17mm is not the grip but the narrow ring on the lens as I focus with the left hand. The E-M1 without the HDL-7 battery grip is still quite small.
Link to comment

Well the Sigma 30mm f2.8 is quite small. The smallest lens I own now is the Wollensak 25mm f1.5 c-mount lens. That thing is tinny.

 

Link to comment

Well, just finished e-m10 fs conversion myself. Little issues (dirt on sensor visible at f8) but almost successful.

It able to see 334nm too:

 

Mercury lamp without filters

post-192-0-55116800-1535822836.jpg

 

Mercury lamp with 315nm filter

post-192-0-71372900-1535822843.jpg

Link to comment
  • 6 months later...

History repeats. I sold my e-m10 and chose e-m5 as the next candidate. It has a visible defect on dust shaker.

The plan is to convert it from the side of the lens mount!

Link to comment

Dmitry,

How well could the Em10 see at 313nm and 335nm mercury lines?

When you did the conversion, did you add anything to the sensor?

I am trying to get a mental picture of how the Sony IMX sensor in the Em5 and Em10 compares to the Panasonic MN34230 sensor in the Em1. The Em10, Em10mk2, Em5, Em5mk2 all have the exact same Sony IMX109 sensor. The Em10mk3 and Epl9 may have the newer Sony IMX159 for 4k recording.

Link to comment

e-m10 had original dust shaker preserved and quartz glass replacement to fix infinity focus shift.

I only had a visible spectral line of 334 nm.

Link to comment
  • 4 weeks later...

I did this on my E-M5 using a simple and scary way.

 

Selfie of extra bits, useless of course. Before turning on the camera, make sure that every piece of broken dust shaker is outside..

post-192-0-05699900-1554650909.jpg

 

Solar spectrum to check conversion

post-192-0-90942500-1554650917.jpg

 

Mercury Hg lamp spectrum

post-192-0-78483300-1554650922.jpg

Link to comment

Interesting, what lens are ypu testing with? I think I see a faint line. Possibly 313 or 335nm, not sure, would depend on the lens your using.

 

Did you go in from the front?

Link to comment

Lens was Lomo T-43. The dark brown line on the left is 334 nm. The extreme left blue blob needs to be investigated.

Yes, I did it in front using a hammer and tweezers. No screw touched at all. I do not recommend it, you need a more secure way to break the glass.

Link to comment
  • 1 month later...

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...