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UltravioletPhotography

Loch Broom in B410


Andrea B.

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A view of Loch Broom near Ullapool, Scotland.

Sony A7R + Some Lens + B410 + Sunlight

f/? for 1/80" @ ISO-100

 

This filter seems to lend itself to one of those red/blue conversions.

I hope I didn't post this before?

This photo will click up larger for a more overwhelming dose of red. :lol:

 

 

lochBroomView_B410_20160501nearUllapoolScotland_225457.jpg

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Oh, I do like this.

When you say, "This filter seems to lend itself to one of those red/blue conversions," do you mean you processed this?

(I thought this filter did this straight out of camera.)

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Andrea does some of the best B-410 shots I have seen.

Colin is the first person to use B-410 (far as I know), here are his old examples, I don't know if he processed these much:

http://www.ultraviol...a/page__st__160

 

I kind of think of B-410 as a minus red filter.

Dual band, similar idea to BG3 in a way, but slightly different.

Hoya makes B-410, and as far as I know Schott has no equivalent.

 

post-87-0-20491100-1522801781.jpg

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John: do you mean you processed this? (I thought this filter did this straight out of camera.)

 

The underlying raw does have orange and blue hues, so I think you could get near that final red/blue look SOOC **if** you figured out the best white balance setting to use and also dialed in some saturation and contrast. But I'm not entirely sure.

 

When I made the photo series at Loch Broom, they looked like this example - very blue. I'm sorry to say I have no idea what white balance I had set because it is not showing up in the Sony Exif data in Photo Mechanic. (I don't know why.)

As Shot

lochBroomView_B410_20160501nearUllapoolScotland_22545701.jpg

 

 

The underlying raw colours look like this. A raw composite has no white balance and also no added contrast and saturation, so this looks pretty pale and dull. But you can see that the orange/blue base is there waiting to be drawn out.

Raw Composite

lochBroomView_B410_20160501nearUllapoolScotland_225457rawComp.jpg

 

 

Here you can see that just a bit of added detail, contrast and saturation moves the raw towards the final product. I think at this point I went for a white balance on the clouds followed by additional saturation and contrast on color selected areas of the scene. Like select red/orange only and push that. Then select blue/grey/white only and push that. It didn't really take much work at all to elicit the strong red/blue look.

Pushed Raw

lochBroomView_B410_20160501nearUllapoolScotland_225457rawCompPnPf2.jpg

 

 

The interesting thing about the B410 is that you can take it in an entirely different direction. Here is a B410 snapshot of a group of birders who were stopping at Loch Broom just as we were leaving.

Roadside Chat in Candyland

roadsideChat_B410_20160501nearUllapoolScotland_pn2.jpg

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I have written so many posts that I actually forgot I had written that tutorial. Or it could be a sign of age? :rolleyes: :P :wacko:

 

That tutorial used Photo Ninja, but the main points (selecting areas for which you increase saturation/contrast, slightly change colour, etc.) can be accomplished in other editors.

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I have written so many posts that I actually forgot I had written that tutorial. Or it could be a sign of age? :rolleyes: :P :wacko:

 

I remembered it after reading the link. Whatever it is a sign of it ain't rare. B)

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Keep in mind that Colin seems to have white balanced his in camera, so I think his photo is pretty much straight out of camera.

 

Thanks for the link, this is what I am looking to do with my G3 also so nice to know it can be done.

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Yes, you should be able to get lovely renditions with a Lumix G3. I've always enjoyed it for that. One of my favorite series was made with an unfiltered GH1 conversion because of the interesting colours I found possible. The picture controls on a Lumix further help with getting an in-camera look that you like. So play with those settings too.

 

Do note that with some filters an in-camera Lumix or Pentax white balance for false colours is not always exactly the same as you would get with a "click-white" tool in an editor. That is not of particular importance because, after all, the colour is false. B) The only time we would care much about an "accurate" false-colour white balance would be if we were attempting to standardize a presentation across differing platforms as we do in the botanical section here.

 

So JD, let's see some photos! :lol:

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I only have Nikon's to work with here, and here is what it looks like for me white balanced out of camera in CNX2.

Just so people know up front. Orange. Wish I could find an easy fast way to change that orange to red, more like Andrea and Colin get.

post-87-0-06002600-1523048649.jpg

 

post-87-0-28914200-1523048715.jpg

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You can use a control points in CNX2 to change a distinct color to another one. Also there is LCH editing steps.

Hope you do not mind the attached quick attempt, exclusively edited with control points. I kept colors on some of the persons in the foreground and added a little blue on one the little boy's pants in the foreground.

 

I also posted another example here:

http://www.ultraviol...erdalen-norway/

 

Very nice reds in your original image Andrea! And I can almost see the water move with the wind gusts on the lake.

post-151-0-50337700-1523081423.jpg

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....white balanced out of camera in CNX2. Orange. Wish I could find an easy fast way to change that orange to red, more like Andrea and Colin get.

 

CNX2 METHOD ONE

 

In Capture NX2, select the orange with a Selection Control Point (+). Use the (-) Selection Control Points to unselect anything you don't want.

 

Now, in the Select Adjustment drop-down menu, pick the Color/LCH tool.

 

In the LCH tool menu, select Hue.

 

At the bottom of the Hue window, click the 60° bar and select 180°.

 

Next, click the LCH Anchor Point target (above the chart) and place the target dropper onto the pre-selected orange colour which you want to change. That will put a grey dot on the hue chart showing where the orange colour lies on the hue chart.

 

Drag that grey dot to the desired red colour. (This should be a downward drag.)

 

Finally, click the grey dot (in its new position) to make the 0-to-100 bar appear. On the 0-to-100 bar, move the arrow to the right to smooth out the color change.

 

That is SO much more difficult to write than it is to actually do !!!

 

Now that you have moved the orange to red, you might need to add saturation or contrast.

 

Click New Step. Put a Color Point on the red and expand its radius to cover all the red. Now move the Color Point Saturation/Contrast sliders until you get the Saturation/Contrast you want.

 


CNX2 METHOD TWO

 

If the orange area is contiguous or if it is broken up but not too scattered, then you can change the orange to red simply with a simple Color Point, as Øvind has mentioned. Like in that preceding photo, put a Color Point onto the sky and expand its radius. Now click the Color Picker patch on the edit step to bring up the Color Picker. Next click the Red area on the ring surrounding the triangle. Finally move the target on the triangle to a Red which has the desired saturation and darkness you want.

 


 

Method Two is easiest but sometimes you can't always select everything with a Color Point if the orange areas are too broken up. So using several Selection Control Points as in Method One is the way to go. And using some De-selection Control Points (-) helps refine the selection.

 

stevenx201.jpg

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Photo Ninja Method Three

 

Color Enhancement Tool.

Base Style: Plain

Intensity: 65.

Click the Orange Patch (Reference hue 56).

 

Move Orange's Hue Affinity slider all the way to the right (100).

Move Orange's Saturation slider all the way to the right (50). {{{Later you can back this up if subject looks over-saturated.}}}

Move Orange's Lightness slider left to about -25 to start. {{{Later you can brighten up the resulting color if desired.}}}

Now move Orange's Hue Shift to the left to a value between -30 and -60.

Moving to -30 produces a red-orange. At -45 you've got mostly red. At -60 the color begins to be a cerise (red with some blue).

 

This is not an all purpose recipe for converting any photo's orange to red in Photo Ninja. It does work for the flower photo above. The method is, however, generalizable to other photos and other colors. Orange is more luminous than red, so that's why you have to darken the color change in the flower photo to get the new red area to look red. If you had been changing that orange to yellow (with a +50 to +60 hue shift), then you would have to lighten the resulting color to get it to look properly yellow because yellow is more luminous than orange.

 

I love this flower! Do you know what it is?

post-87-0-06002600-1523048649pn2.jpg

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Here is probably my favorite one I did with B-410 (color-wise). This was probably done by way of adjusting colors within CNX2, but I have not found the corresponding NEF file for it yet, so I don't know what all I did.

Still not 'red', but I like it better than the straight marquee or spot white balances I get. However, I still don't go for orange that much personally. I think I like 570nm swapped and tweaked better perhaps.

Probably the only dual band filter I really actually like a lot is the UG1/U-360 look.

post-87-0-42245100-1523250429.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
That is the craziest looking boat. I love it! Very cool photograph.
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