Panasonic Lumix DMC G3 Camera

[Andrea B.]

Different "look". Interesting. I don't have time today to read in detail, but I will later this evening. "-)

 

Col, go into the Exposure and Detail tab. Pull the exposure slider back by about .10 or .20.

Then use the highlight slider to pull back that right hand oversaturation seen as a spike.

Then, if you like, use the Shadows slider to carefully open up the shadows just a bit.

 

When using a UV torch, it is sometimes helpful to "paint with light" by moving the beam circularly around over the flower so you don't get hot, overexposed areas. (If you already know this, please kindly ignore.)

[JCDowdy]

I don't know how to confirm it, but I think that PhotoNinja is limited in WB range, Kelvin degrees, compared to the Panasonic G3.

 

On my G3 the lower limit of adjustment n the ColorTemp WB setting is 2500K. In PN the lower limit appears to be 2000K. Unless CWB can go lower than ColorTemp WB the camera is the limiting factor rather than PN.

 

If I change this setting in PhotoNinja & try to get it back again, I can't, I have to re-load the image.

 

I am not sure I quite understand, I have not experienced this, I can apply color corrections and then go back into color correction and restore "From camera".

[colinbm]

Thanks John

I have looked again & yes, PN is able to get back to the in camera CWB.

It appears that the G3 in camera CWB is the lower Kelvin degrees, below 2000K.

I have been looking at some Kelvin lighting charts, this one is interesting, in that it has 'twilight' at 12000K. I have never experienced a twilight, but my grandmother talked about it.

 

 

This one mentions IR to UV

 

 

Are there commercial cameras that are able to set these ranges or more the 2,000 to 15,000K that PhotoNinja has ?

 

Cheers

Col

[nfoto]

My PN is set to "w/b from camera" as a default. I rarely need doing anything with 99% of files in the visible range. For UV, it depends on the camera. My Nikons require assistance, the Panasonic usually don't.

[colinbm]

Thanks Bjorn

I am finding the Panasonic G3 quite easy now to capture a Custom White Balance, most of the time.

I have taken some multi-spectral infrared photos that look very promising with CWB too.

In fact, I am quite enjoying the G2 in out of visible spectrum photography & the automatic 'default' settings in PhotoNinja, thanks to everyones help here.

Cheers

Col

[Andrea B.]

I find that the Visible colour is slightly wrong in my broadband Nikon D-600 when making an in-camera white balance. This is because the internal filters have been removed. One of those filters is a blue-green filter of some type which blocks IR. Removing that alters the right-hand shoulder of the camera's colour curve.

 

So I have made profiles with CC Passport to store in PN to apply to the Visible photos made with the D-600 (under the Baader UVIR Cut).

 

I apply that same Visible colour profile to the UV photos BEFORE white balancing them. That way UV false colours produced after white balance are the false colours the camera would have seen under its original colour curve (after white balance).

 

Somewhere there is a post showing the difference between the colours produced by the in-camera wb and the restored profiled colours.

 

****

 

Interestingly, the only way you can know your in-camera white balance is slightly wrong for Visible colours is by making a profile to apply.

[JCDowdy]

Andrea,

 

Isn't the removed blue-green filter actually functioning primarily as a color correction filter?

 

I am wondering if stacking an S8612 or some other Schott BG filter with a Baader UVIR/Cut might restore the camera back closer to original internal filtering than just the Baader UVIR cut alone.

 

I have been meaning to give this a try, but have simply been to busy.

[OlDoinyo]

The KolariVision filter sold for this purpose is in fact a blue-green filter, in addition to blocking IR. I find it does a better job of reversing the conversion for my Sony than a hot mirror does, and it is just a single filter.

[Andrea B.]

I've tried BG 38, 39, 30, 470 and S8612. They do not fully restore the camera's proper colours. So I'm done trying BG filters for colour correction.

 

Now, please understand that if you have made an in-camera white balance under your chosen IR-blocker or UVIR-blocker, your colours in a converted cam are not going to be wildly "off". There will likely only be mild to subtle changes noted.

 

Anyway once I learned how easy it was to profile, I decided to simply make that a part of every shoot. It is quick and very easy to do. Takes longer to write down what to do than it does to simply do it.

 

When I want to shoot Visible under the Baader Uvir-Cut, I first make an in-camera white balance off of something PTFE or Spectralon or whatever. Then I make a photo of the CC Passport in the light I am going to shoot in. (Belt and Suspenders always ensure the pants are kept up!)

 

Later when I convert the Visible raw photos, I create a colour profile for that shoot in Photo Ninja and apply it to all Visible conversions. Making the colour profile from the CC Passport photograph takes about 2 minutes. You just load the photo, stretch the grid over the Passport squares and press the Build Profile button.

[colinbm]

I am as happy as a pig in mud !

I have changed a m4/3 adapter to fit my Sigma SA mount lenses onto the Panasonic G3 & I have aperture control too !

Conveniently, the FFD of Sigma SA mount & Canon EF mount are both the same, at 44mm.

There is an adapter, with aperture control, for m4/3 to Canon EF (EOS) mount.

So by swapping the Sigma SA mount ring off a SA to m4/3 adapter & replacing the Canon EF mount ring, & drilling & tapping new holes, I now have a, Sigma SA to m4/3 with aperture control, adapter.

This will be handy as I have a Sigma 105mm Macro 1:1 lens, that is able to see UV around 365nm.

Col

 

 

Allamanda flower taken with a Panasonic G3 converted camera, with a Sigma 105mm Macro lens with a Baader U2 filter.

Settings are, ISO 200, f16 at 1/10th seconds, taken in Sunlight & a Mercury HID lamp.

I haven't seen these freckles before, either.

[JCDowdy]

Ah, adapter wizardry, love it!

I see there is a Nikon-F to EOS adapter that will plant an F-mount lens on that EOS to µ4/3 adapter with built in aperture.

I have an F-mount lens that only goes to f/8, wonder what that adapter stack would do with it?

[colinbm]

I am glad to get you thinking outside the circle John, Good luck :D

Col

[OlDoinyo]

Isn't the filter size for that Sigma lens somewhere above 60mm? I would think that could result in some serious corner-clipping.

 

I have the Sigma 70mm macro, myself. I assumed it would not be a good UV lens, but you have me wondering...

[colinbm]

Hi Clark

The filter size is 58mm.

At minimum focus (313mm) & f8 it starts getting vignetted. At infinity & f16 it starts getting vignetted.

I am finding my Sigma lenses are getting down to around 365nm, with my Smeed Sparticle UV filter array.

Col

[colinbm]

I went for a walk in the park, at the end of my street today, with the Panasonic G3 with a dual pass filter, CWB.

Opened in PhotoNinja RAW converter.

Col

 

 

Panasonic G3, full spectrum, with 14-42mm kit lens at 14mm, ISO 200, f13 at 1/40th second.

BG25 dual band filter, CWB on grey card.

 

PS, did I say I am enjoying thisG3 camera ;)

[colinbm]

A different take with the Panasonic G3 with a dual pass filter, CWB.

Opened in PhotoNinja RAW converter.

Col

 

 

Panasonic G3, full spectrum, with 14-42mm kit lens at 14mm, ISO 200, f11 at 1/40th second.

B410 dual band filter, CWB on grey card.

[Andrea B.]

Col, I LOVE those foto colours. Man, you are off and running now with your new G3 mod. Cool!!

 

The foto in #165 is quite nicely composed. Well done.

 

This B410 is not a filter I know. It seems to give that interesting red/blue look like the old films did.

 

Are these the colours which "naturally" appear with a BG25 and a B410? Or do you have to turn the colour wheel a bit?

[JCDowdy]

I do like that B410, is that the Hoya B-410?

 

It is reminiscent of some of the "digital EIR" simulation of Kodak Aerochrome EIR film some of us have experimented with.

[colinbm]

Thanks Andrea & John

Yes, these are various minus green & minus red filters.

I have had some experience with CWB on grey cards & they are not all the same in full spectrum photography, I have settled on one that I like. I use it to take a new CWB each time & with each filter individually with these filters.

I use the Teflon block for UV photography, but the Teflon gives a CWB in full spectrum & these mixed UV / IR filters with the IR reflection as white. I like the white foliage in IR too.

The various warm colours in the foliage I find very pleasing.

I do very minimal processing in PhotoNinja & PSE11.

 

These shots are, essentially as taken & seen in the view-finder.

 

Cheers

Col

[colinbm]

Here I am, back again, with some more revelations of the progress with the Panasonic G3 conversion.

I have finally got a C-Mount to m3/4 adapter, so I can finally try out the Wollensak 25mm f1.9 lens, that I purchased about a year ago, after reading a post by Iggy.

This lens has worked out just fine & with my, Smeed UV Sparticle Filter Array, it exposes well down to 350nm with a 1second exposure & the 340nm is just seen.

So now on the camera, it is OK & without any vignette ;)

The Wollensak 25mm f1.9 lens, can close focus down to under 24" or 600mm, another plus for it.

Here are some UV photos with this little guy.

Cheers

Col

 

 

Allamanda Flower, crop.

Panasonic G3 converted, ISO 200, f11 at 2 seconds, with Wollensak 25mm f1.9 C-mount lens & Baader U2 filter.

The scene was enhanced with a MTE U301, 365nm flashlight, with the reflector removed, to avoid the spot light.

 

 

 

Local Shopping Centre, 4 image pano, with Microsoft ICE.

Panasonic G3 converted, ISO 200, f11 at 1/2 second, with Wollensak 25mm f1.9 C-mount lens & Baader U2 filter.

[DaveO]

Well done Col. You are really flying now.

 

Dave

[colinbm]

Thanks Dave

Yes, it is nice to get together a few years of research with the Sigma Foveon cameras & apply it here with the Panasonic G3 & enjoy the results.

Col

[colinbm]

I sat down with what might be the last Allamanda Flower for what remains of this summer, down-under :(

Sorry the flower is a bit poxy, but it is the last one.

I tried again with a CWB on a PTFE block with a S8612 + UG5, both are 2mm thick, on the converted Panasonic G3.

Col

 

 

Allamanda Flower, crop, in BUG view.

Panasonic G3 converted, ISO 200, f5.6 at 1.3 seconds, with Wollensak 25mm f1.9 C-mount lens & S8612 + UG5 filters.

The scene was enhanced with a MTE U301, 365nm flashlight, with the reflector removed, to avoid the spot light.

[msubees]

Collin,

 

I tested both 1.5 and 2 mm of UG5 + S8612, 2mm gave me a darker green (dirty-ish looking), which I did not like. I elected to use 1.5mm UG5 and most of the time get the nice green in the UV dark areas.

[Andrea B.]

Nice work with that Wollie, Col. Good details and sharpness.

UV really brings out the surface textures whether pits or bumps or whatever.

I'm enjoying the orange/purple colours - one of my favorite combos. :(