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UltravioletPhotography

Full Spectrum Camera Conversion Discussion (need to update the Stickies)


Andrea B.

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It is January. Time for me to look at the Stickies and possibly update the information.

I'm starting with the sections about UV Cameras and Camera Conversion.

 

Below is the copy about Cameras and Conversions from the Sticky #1 for easy reading.

Sections are separated by a row of blue stars.

  • Introduction
  • UV Camera
  • Camera Modification

Questions:

  • What cameras should be added?
  • Should we discuss the type of filter glass used in full-spectrum conversions?
  • Do you have any additions to the list of recommended retail conversion shops?
  • Are facts correct?
  • Do you have any good links to add? I can't put everything in these Stickies so external links are very useful for filling in the information.
  • Do existing links still work?

Additions & Rewrites will be done here for easy review.

 

********************************************

 

....from the INTRODUCTION

 

The Camera

 

UV-sensitivity of digital camera sensors is best discussed on a per-camera basis. Actual measurements of a sensor's UV sensitivity are not made available by camera manufacturers. So our knowledge here is gained the hard way - we mod a camera, shoot with it and list it in the UV Sticky if it works well for UV.

 

Some older cameras had weak internal UVIR-block filters and could shoot UVIR without modification - the Nikon D70 being the classic example. But in the newest cameras this UVIR-block filter is very strong and must be removed to enable UV photography. If the camera also has a seperate anti-aliasing filter, that must be removed as well. Newer cameras may have a sensor-covering dust shaker mechanism which contains UVIR blocking glass, so this type of dust shaker may be permanently removed during the modification.

 

Experimentation and sensor construction both indicate that the practical limits of UV photography with DSLRs from which all internal filters have been removed does not go beyond 300nm. This is partly because there is a fused glass layer (or possibly some other kind of coating) over the sensor pack to protect actual sensor elements such as the Bayer array or the microlenses.

 

See the UV Cameras section below for a list of proven UV-capable cameras.

 

A few brave souls modify their camera themselves, but most of us send the camera to a retail modification shop. During UV modification the sensor is fitted with a clear full-spectrum glass of the same thickness as the removed internal filter. This is done primarily to ensure the correct register distance is maintained for focusing but also to protect the underlying sensor pack. With a full-spectrum mod, you still need an external UV-pass filter to block the Visible & IR wavelengths when making a UV photo. However, a full-spectrum mod does allow you to use other external filters to shoot Visible or IR photos.

 

An alternate UV modification would be replacement of the UVIR-block filter with an actual UV-pass filter which would permit use of the camera's viewfinder. We are beginning to see this mod offered by retail mod shops, but the UV-pass filter choice is limited.

 

See the Camera Modification section below for some links to retail modification shops and DIY articles.

 

********************************************

 

UV CAMERAS

 

Editor's Note: It was not my intention to be Nikon-centric in the listing UV capable cameras, but for a long time there seemed to be only Nikon cameras being converted for use in UV. Part of this may be due to the fact that Bjørn Rørslett, as a noted practitioner and pioneer in digital UV photography, used primarily Nikon cameras. Now we are beginning to get a lot more information about other brands of camera. I've written a bit more about these cameras as a supplement to this Sticky.

Please also see: Cameras for UV: Pros & Cons of Various Choices

 

Nikon or Nikon F-Mount with CCD Sensor

 

The older DSLRs listed here have CCD sensors and are considered good candidates for UV shooting. Some of them are UV-capable (or IR-capable) without modification and make good DSLRs for UVIR beginners who would like to get started with minimal expense. Just be aware that with an unmodified DSLR, exposures will be longer and noisier and using the viewfinder is not possible. The listed cameras are no longer manufactured, but can be found as resales in the used section of online retailers, on Ebay or Amazon or in For Sale sections of various photography forums.

 

Although some Nikons are listed as useable for UVIR when unmodified, they will perform better in UVIR if the internal blocking filter is removed.

 

These lists represent a consensus of opinion from users of these cameras who have provided their observations in Fotozones.com and UltravioletPhotography.com threads.

 

Nikon:

  • Usable unmodified: D1, D1H, D1X, D100, D2H, D50, D60, D80.
  • Usable unmodifed, but better if modded: D2HS.
  • Good unmodified: D70, D70S, D40.
  • Must be modified: D40x, D200

Fujifilm Finepix:

  • Must be modified: S3 Pro, S5 Pro
  • Pre-modified by Fuji: S3 Pro-UVIR, IS PRO.
    Both no longer manufactured, but available used.

Kodak:

When we first started the Stickies, we listed these cams as having UVIR potential, but I don't know if they can be found anymore.

  • DCS 520, 560
  • DCS 620, 620X, 660
  • DCS 720X, 760C

Nikon or Nikon F-Mount with CMOS Sensor

 

The newer Nikon DSLRs having CMOS sensors must be modified for UV photography because the strength of the internal UVIR blocking filters has been increased. Newer Nikon DSLRs may have a dust shaker mechanism covering the sensor which contains UVIR blocking glass, so this type of dust shaker must be permanently removed during the modification.

 

If you choose an internal UV filter for your conversion, you will have both the Viewfinder and Live View available for focusing. If you have decided on a full spectrum conversion in order to be able to make use of external UVIR filters, then in sufficient UV light you can use Live View to focus your UV shots while wide open and then stop down to shoot. Very nice when it can be done! A UV-LED torch can be useful to shine on close subjects for UV focusing via Live View.

 

Warning: Do not convert these Nikon DSLRs: D700, D3, D3S, D3X, D4.

These Nikon DSLRs have an IR-LED self-diagnostic shutter monitor which can produce IR contamination of photos which is particularly damaging to UV photography. The excess IR light from the shutter monitor will show up as a lighter area of flare, smear and discolouration in a UV photo.

 

You can see the IR shutter monitor for the D3S on this Nikon Flagship Reliability page. Scroll down to Shutter Unit section.

 

Newer Nikon DSLRs having a shutter monitor - D7000/D7100, D600/610, D800/E - are convertible. Apparently their shutter monitor is of such a design that it causes no IR contamination.

 

Modified Nikon CMOS cameras which have been successfully used by Fotozones.com or UltravioletPhotography.com members for UV.

If your camera is not listed here, please contact the Sticky editor.

  • Nikon D2X - Modified.
  • Nikon D300 - Modified.
  • Nikon D3200 - Modified.
  • Nikon D7000 - Modified.
  • Nikon D600 - Modified.

Other DSLR or non-DSLR

As mentioned above, for a bit more information please see: Cameras for UV: Pros & Cons of Various Choices.

 

If a Fotozones or UltravioletPhotography member mentions a non-Nikon DSLR or a point-and-shoot that they have successfully used for UV photography, then we will list it here.

 

Panasonic Lumix mirrorless cams are known for their excellent video capability. That carries over to UV video too.

 

As noted previously, any dust shaker mechanism placed over the sensor which contains UVIR blocking glass will be permanently removed during a modification.

 

This list is by no means exhaustive, but it will make the point that we have a wide range of choices across the various digital DSLR and mirrorless cameras from which to choose.

  • Canon 20D, 40D, M, 5D, 600D - all modified.
  • Olympus E-410, E-PM1, E-PM2 - all modified.
  • Panasonic Lumix G1, G2, G3,GF1, GH1, GH2, GH3, G5 - all modified.
  • Pentax K10D, K5 - all modified.
  • Sony A100, NEX-3, NEX-5N, NEX-6 - all modified.

********************************************

 

CAMERA MODIFICATION

 

Neither Fotozones.com nor UltravioletPhotography.com are affiliated with any online retail camera UVIR conversion shops or any DIY conversion site. Links are provided here *for your information only*. Please post a question or do a search on either website to fid out members' most recent experiences with conversions.

 

If a retail conversion shop is not mentioned here, then it is because we have no positive feedback about it.

 

Remember:

  • When you modify a DSLR, you are voiding the original warranty.
  • Do not convert Nikon a D700, D3, D3S, D3X, D4. See above.
  • Any sensor-covering UVIR-blocking glass dust shaker mechanism may be removed permanently. See above.
  • The practical limit of UV photography with a modified DSLR is thought to be 300nm.

Here is an interesting write-up about camera conversion by Enrico Savazzi:

Filter Packs and Replacement Windows

 

Retail Conversion Shops: USA

 

Kolari Vision

Kolari Vision offers IR and full spectrum mods and other services.

  • In addition to complete conversion services, Kolari offers a partial DIY service: You remove your sensor pack and send it to them. They will install an IR filter in a clean room and return the sensor to you for your reinstallation in your camera.
  • No filter transmission charts offered, but there is lots of info & tutorials.
  • Kolari Vision warns about the unsuitability of the D700/D3/D3S/D3X/D4 for conversion.
    Link: http://kolarivision....ionservice.html

Life Pixel Digital Infrared Conversion

Life Pixel offers IR, UV and full spectrum mods.

  • Filter transmission charts available along with lots of other info & tutorials.
  • Life Pixel warns about the unsuitability of the D700/D3/D3S/D3X/D4 for conversion.
    Goto the LifePixel FAQ Page, click on the first Question (Which digital cameras do you modify....) and then scroll down to see the Warning by the *a token.

MaxMax (LDP LLC)

MaxMax offers IR and full spectrum mods.

They post no warnings about the unsuitability of D700/D3/D3S/D3X/D4 for conversion.

 

Retail Conversion Shops: Europe

 

Advanced Camera Services Norfolk, England

ACS offers IR, UV and full spectrum mods.

  • No filter transmission charts offered.
  • They post no warnings about the unsuitability of D700/D3/D3S/D3X/D4 for conversion.

Optic Makario Germany

Optic Makario offers IR, UV and full spectrum mods.

  • No fiter transmission charts offered.
  • They post no warnings about the unsuitability of D700/D3/D3S/D3X/D4 for conversion.

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enricosavazzi

Add the following cameras in the list:

 

Panasonic G3 - Modified

Olympus E-PM2 - Modified, perhaps also link to http://savazzi.net/p...aphy/e-pm2.html (the particular conversion described here may not be to everybody's tastes, but the discussion of the performance of the converted camera has a general validity)

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Thanks, Enrico. I've added those cameras. Also link.

 

And added a link to Boon Tang's discussion of Oly E-PM1 and Nex-5N.

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Add Nikon D7100 to the list. The only caveat is the possibility of banding in "black on black" UV images if you try (as I have alas done) to extract detail from the deep shadow.

 

The banding was mentioned in this review

 

http://www.dslrbodies.com/cameras/current-nikon-dslr-reviews/nikon-d7100-review.html

 

Of course I only found that review when I was trying to convince myself that I really was seeing banding. If you never move the grey point in an attempt to open up the shadows you will never see the problem. The solution is Topaz DeNoise 5 which fixes it like magic.

 

Dave

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Added link to Canon EOS 5D conversion and example photo.

 

*****

 

Dave, when shadows are pushed you can get various kinds of trouble with almost any camera under certain exposure conditions. So I don't think the D7100 is "disqualified" in any way. Interestingly, banding can be easily "cured" during editing by adding a bit of noise, as you have discovered.

 

BTW, for a Nikon body, using the in-camera Active D-Lighting (ADL) settings can open up the shadows considerably. The in-camera ADL process is not the same as the way shadows are typically opened up in software. And Nikon's in-camera ADL is not the same as the ADL in Nikon software like Capture NX2. Using Nikon in-camera ADL may require a conversion step in Nikon's View NX or NXD to preserve the setting, but learning and making use of in-camera ADL is well worth the occasional added step in conversion.

Kindly disregard this if you already know and make use of ADL. :)

 

It was not clear to me whether you are using the D7100 for UV/IR type work??

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